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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Not a stud. About a 5 inch flanged hex head bolt which passes thru the lower shock mount, into a welded nut on the other side of the control arm. (Edit) the welded nut is smooth, with no surfaces for gripping.

I ordered two bolts at the dealer today, about $5 each.
 

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Get bigger tools for that bolt before you try cutting it. 24" handles/breaker bars on good sockets will all but break that bolt on the way to breaking it loose.

I survived for a decade on 3/8"- and 1/4"-drive stuff for all but suspension work. For 10mm or larger diameter bolts, especially suspension bolts with the typical corrosion 'threadlocker', it takes 1/2"-drive minimum. Stuff that takes more than 125 lbs/ft of tightening torque often takes twice that for initial breakaway, pushing you up into 3/4"-drive territory.

Some of the better Milwaukee battery impact guns make more usable torque than my vintage IR air impact gun. I have no good experience with Harbor Freight air impact guns. I do know that my IR needs at least a 3/8" air hose and more than 125 PSI to do anything serious. If you are trying an air impact on one of those little pancake compressors with a 1/4" coily hose, you are severely limiting its capacity. It takes a lot of those pee new mats, running through the hose standing upright, to hammer enough on the impact anvil. Just sayin'...
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
@dr bob , good thoughts. I think I'm covered in the tool department, though: earlier I talked about using a 4 ft cheater pipe on the breaker bar, that's a 1/2" breaker bar. Air wrench is a half inch earthquake XT stubby ratchet, brand new. Supposedly 550 ft lb. Compressor is a twin cylinder 20 gallon DeWalt with 3/8 hose. I backed off the regulator to 90psi, since that's the max pressure from the manual for the wrench. Seems low to me, though.

The air wrench did break the passenger side free. That bolt pulls out about 2 inches before not pulling out farther, presumably due to bushing sleeve on bolt. Is there a technique I'm missing other than cutting this bolt?
 

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mikesdak keep us posted on your progress I have a 2011 Pilot it has been difficult finding Bilstein B6 struts and shocks at this time been waiting 4 months still missing one of the front struts. I finally ordered the front OEM struts from Majestic Honda the rear shocks I purchased from Amazon and are the Bilstein B6. I have replaced the front lower control arms the front sway bar links and bushings just waiting on the rest of the parts so I can complete this job. I also order the front springs top bearing and plate and the rubber boots from Majestic Honda I have a jacktech sk-3500 to compress the springs so no problem with assembly. God luck on those rusted bolts I hope I do not have to go through that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok, so I'm told to set the regulator at 90psi with the tool running wide open. I set it at 90psi static....I bet this will make a difference. Will report back.

Otherwise, if it doesn't do the job, I'm buying an IR231c, for about the same money.
 

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mikesdak -- the bolt that seems to be sticking in the bushing is likely hung up due to tension from the lower control arm. Put a jack under the lower control arm to lift it slightly. Then a punch from the other side and a small hammer should easily drive the bolt out.

Good catch on the static vs. dynamic pressure setting. Know that most small regulators, the ones with 1/4" NPT fittings, are really restriction devices in disguise even when they should seemingly be full-open. For any serious impact duty, the largest shortest hose with the fewest fittings is your best bet. Take a look at the most common quick-connect fittings for instance, and see how tiny the ID is. 3/8" minimum hose sizes, and none of those cute curly plastic air hoses. Most are 1/4" ID best, and even when only stretched to six feet there's still 25' of plastic tubing. Think 12-15" of hose -per coil- in those, and about the shorter-is-better rule. Lots of impact guns are choked before they get the second impact blow.

I have a cool 3/4"-drive air impact that's permanently connected to 15' of 1/2" ID hose. There's a portable 10 gal air tank doing surge-tank duty, which also has connections for my 1/4" standard shop air fittings. It takes less than 10 seconds to suck that little air tank down, even though it's connected to 125 PSI shop air. I've only needed that wrench a couple times in maybe 20 years, but it's the right tool for those few duties. Point is about the airflow restrictions.
 
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