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Hello!

I have 98k on my 2008 Pilot and I went into get my car inspected for my 105k service since it should’ve been done at 7 years. Primarily for the timing belt and water pump. They found that I should change my spark plugs, struts, and shocks in addition . They quoted 500 for the spark plugs and cabin air filter. Then 1500 for shock, struts, and alignment. I started googling and found a few YouTube videos from a1auto and I believe I can do the repairs on my own. I will let the auto shop do the timing belt and water pump for 1,200 since that’s a little out of my league. I am trying to decide if I should stick with the aftermarket parts on a1auto, or if I should get oem or better parts on rock auto.
These are the parts I’m considering.

strut assembly: Monroe 272975 quickstrut (Rockauto) Or 2008 Honda Pilot Front & Rear Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit 4 Piece Set (a1auto)

Shocks: Gabriel 61704 (rockauto) or kit above (a1auto)

spark plugs look similar on both sites. Both Iridium

I’m also considering doing the brakes while I’m taking everything apart. Would getting performance brakes be beneficial for a daily driver or a waste of money?

brakes:
rear power stop k2382 z23 evolution sports brake (rock auto)
Front: power stop k230226 z26 street warrior performance (Rock auto)

or get ceramic brakes at a1auto?

2008 Honda Pilot Front & Rear Premium Posi Semi-Metallic Brake Kit

Thank you and If you need any additional info let me know and I’d be glad to provide it. :)
 

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Your shock/strut choices are solid.
I'm a fan of powerstop brakes in general, but I think the Z23/Z26 kits are overkill. Their KOE kits are an incredible value, getting pads and rotors for $50-$60 per axle. I installed some KOE's recently on a civic and was impressed with quality for the value.

If you live in a rust belt, then buying them separately and getting good coated rotors will go a long way. The powerstop ones rust pretty quick in those areas. I have raybestos rotors on ours for 4 years with no complaints. For pads I get the powerstop ones if I am buying their kit, or I will buy OEM or Akebono pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you! So you’re saying I should get the parts from rock auto instead of a1auto? I was figuring since I would’ve saving money with the labor, then I could splurge on upper level parts. But I probably don’t need high performance brakes. How difficult do you think these repairs are? The strut assembly looks less difficult since I’m not taking the spring off. And the shock doesn’t look too difficult. I feel the most difficult items to replace will be the spark plugs and brakes. What’s your opinion. I don’t have the most automobile repair experience, but I am handy and have done a little work on atv carbs. Thanks again!
 

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I don't like generic parts and like to know exactly what part I am getting, and tend to read reviews from others on how they liked them. Then I shop around to find the best price. With RockAuto you can get the 5% off code and that usually makes them the best price.

Brakes and shocks are super easy. The only PITA on brakes is dealing with the spring pad spreaders, while reinstalling the caliper. Sometimes the aftermarket springs dont hold in there well and I end up reusing the OEM springs. Struts are a bit harder because of all the parts that have to come off to get them off... just watch some good youtube videos. Spark plugs are stupid simple as well, the only pain on these is getting to the back ones.

I do all my own work, I just watch youtube videos, and take notes on what tools they used, socket sizes, cleaners, lubes, accessories, etc. I make sure I have all the tools I need before starting. You have to start somewhere! The most important part is not to give up, if you get stuck, take a break. Too many people get frustrated, throw in the towel, and call a tow truck. People here can get you over any hump.

Did you plan out the other maintenance you need to do? Transmission fluid change, brake fluid flush, power steering fluid change. Drive belt. You will get a coolant swap with your water pump/timing belt service. That $1200 might also include a drive belt, have to check. It might not.
 
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Hello!

I have 98k on my 2008 Pilot and I went into get my car inspected for my 105k service since it should’ve been done at 7 years. Primarily for the timing belt and water pump. They found that I should change my spark plugs, struts, and shocks in addition . They quoted 500 for the spark plugs and cabin air filter. Then 1500 for shock, struts, and alignment. I started googling and found a few YouTube videos from a1auto and I believe I can do the repairs on my own. I will let the auto shop do the timing belt and water pump for 1,200 since that’s a little out of my league. I am trying to decide if I should stick with the aftermarket parts on a1auto, or if I should get oem or better parts on rock auto.
These are the parts I’m considering.

strut assembly: Monroe 272975 quickstrut (Rockauto) Or 2008 Honda Pilot Front & Rear Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit 4 Piece Set (a1auto)

Shocks: Gabriel 61704 (rockauto) or kit above (a1auto)

spark plugs look similar on both sites. Both Iridium

I’m also considering doing the brakes while I’m taking everything apart. Would getting performance brakes be beneficial for a daily driver or a waste of money?

brakes:
rear power stop k2382 z23 evolution sports brake (rock auto)
Front: power stop k230226 z26 street warrior performance (Rock auto)

or get ceramic brakes at a1auto?

2008 Honda Pilot Front & Rear Premium Posi Semi-Metallic Brake Kit

Thank you and If you need any additional info let me know and I’d be glad to provide it. :)
Good for you, Nvdude. Do as much as you want to do, and let a shop do the rest! My two cents on the struts and shocks: I replaced all units on my 2003 with KYB, and I am happy with the results. I would hesitate to use 1A Auto parts, just because it's no-name stuff. The KYB parts are clearly high quality. I used their quick struts on the front, and they were identical to the oem Honda struts that I removed. Do what you want to do, but I would recommend KYB. I got my parts from Rock Auto, I've had good luck with them so far.
 

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Hello!

I have 98k on my 2008 Pilot and I went into get my car inspected for my 105k service since it should’ve been done at 7 years. Primarily for the timing belt and water pump. They found that I should change my spark plugs, struts, and shocks in addition . They quoted 500 for the spark plugs and cabin air filter. Then 1500 for shock, struts, and alignment. I started googling and found a few YouTube videos from a1auto and I believe I can do the repairs on my own. I will let the auto shop do the timing belt and water pump for 1,200 since that’s a little out of my league. I am trying to decide if I should stick with the aftermarket parts on a1auto, or if I should get oem or better parts on rock auto.
These are the parts I’m considering.

strut assembly: Monroe 272975 quickstrut (Rockauto) Or 2008 Honda Pilot Front & Rear Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit 4 Piece Set (a1auto)

Shocks: Gabriel 61704 (rockauto) or kit above (a1auto)

spark plugs look similar on both sites. Both Iridium

I’m also considering doing the brakes while I’m taking everything apart. Would getting performance brakes be beneficial for a daily driver or a waste of money?

brakes:
rear power stop k2382 z23 evolution sports brake (rock auto)
Front: power stop k230226 z26 street warrior performance (Rock auto)

or get ceramic brakes at a1auto?

2008 Honda Pilot Front & Rear Premium Posi Semi-Metallic Brake Kit

Thank you and If you need any additional info let me know and I’d be glad to provide it. :)
$500.00 for 6 Spark Plugs and a Filter!.....Outrageous!....

Plug instllation is patience and automotive common sense.....

As for struts.....I used KYB Front Struts.....And assembled them myself.....They work great.....If you go with a Complete Strut set up.....The installation is easy.....Unbolt the old one.....And bolt on the new one.....I also used KYB Shocks in the rear.....

As for brakes.....I bought the Drilled and Slotted Brake Setup for all 4 wheels.....(And new calipers for the front).....I tow all the time.....Usually a car.....A truck.....Or a motorcycle.....And I can tell you first hand.....That the High Priced.....Fancy Looking.....Drilled and Slotted Brakes on the Honda Pilots.....Don't do anything extra for the Pilots.....My Factory Original Brake Setup stopped "almost" equal to the Drilled and Slotted Brake Setup.....And the factory rotors lasted over 100,000 miles.....The Drilled and Slotted rotors and calipers only lasted about 50,000 miles before becoming warped and warn out.....They also eat brake pads faster than the factory setup.....

I will be going back to the factory setup in a few weeks when I change my 4 brake rotors and my pads.....My advice.....Get a good set of pads and rotors with the factory setup and enjoy the savings and low maintenance.....

Just my opinion.....
 

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As for brakes.....I bought the Drilled and Slotted Brake Setup for all 4 wheels.....(And new calipers for the front).....I tow all the time.....Usually a car.....A truck.....Or a motorcycle.....And I can tell you first hand.....That the High Priced.....Fancy Looking.....Drilled and Slotted Brakes on the Honda Pilots.....Don't do anything extra for the Pilots.....My Factory Original Brake Setup stopped "almost" equal to the Drilled and Slotted Brake Setup.....And the factory rotors lasted over 100,000 miles.....The Drilled and Slotted rotors and calipers only lasted about 50,000 miles before becoming warped and warn out.....They also eat brake pads faster than the factory setup.....

I will be going back to the factory setup in a few weeks when I change my 4 brake rotors and my pads.....My advice.....Get a good set of pads and rotors with the factory setup and enjoy the savings and low maintenance.....

Just my opinion.....
A happy medium between drilled/slotted rotors that dust up and wear out faster, and the factory set that so many on this forum, including yours truly, find too soft and inadequate for stopping our Pilots without breaking (pun intended) into a cold sweat each time you need to brake quickly, is the Centric set from Rockauto I put on this spring, after a more basic set, equally inadequate, from RA I had put on in hopes of improving the Honda OEM brakes. Been very happy and now my Pilot has the brakes it should have had all along.

Just my opinion....



By the way, GETFURIOUS, why does it say "Banned" under your name? That's odd.?
 

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A happy medium between drilled/slotted rotors that dust up and wear out faster, and the factory set that so many on this forum, including yours truly, find too soft and inadequate for stopping our Pilots without breaking (pun intended) into a cold sweat each time you need to brake quickly, is the Centric set from Rockauto I put on this spring, after a more basic set, equally inadequate, from RA I had put on in hopes of improving the Honda OEM brakes. Been very happy and now my Pilot has the brakes it should have had all along.

Just my opinion....



By the way, GETFURIOUS, why does it say "Banned" under your name? That's odd.?
A long time ago.....When I first joined the forum.....I could post in color.....Which my color of choice was blue.....And I also always type in all caps.....(The way that I have typed for over 4 decades).....Which "some people" make into an issue....(It is just words typed on a message board).....

So.....when people would start to argue about caps and about color.....I would just "not" respond.....(Life is too short for petty nonsense).....Some of them apparently complained to the Moderators about the arguments over caps.....Which I did "not" participate in.....And I did not break any of the rules.....So.....some Moderator or Administrator decided to place the "Banned" line under my avatar.....And I rather like it.....

Now.....the board features no longer allow typing in color.....So.....I am stuck with basic black.....and I have to actually type my messages into a word document.....Then change the case.....Then post the message.....(Or take all day to type on the board in lower case).....All of which is the opposite of my personality.....That is also why over the last few years.....I have posted a lot less than I used to.....

Like everybody else.....I like to share and receive information about our vehicles.....But it is a lot less fun when you have to hold back your natural personality in order to post a message.....

I hope that answers your question.....

B-T-W.....As I sad earlier.....I am going to change the brake pads and rotors on my Pilot soon.....are these the Centric pads and rotors that you used?....

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8264384&cc=1425574&jsn=10497&jsn=10497

Thanks.....
 

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Now.....the board features no longer allow typing in color.....So.....I am stuck with basic black
I'm acutally reading you in white, lol, since I'm using the Dark Mode option on this forum.

B-T-W.....As I sad earlier.....I am going to change the brake pads and rotors on my Pilot soon.....are these the Centric pads and rotors that you used?....

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8264384&cc=1425574&jsn=10497&jsn=10497

Thanks.....
Yes, they are, and I've been quite happy with that set. (y)

Don't forget to use the opportunity to change your brake fluid and bleed your brakes in the correct order: driver's corner first, then clockwise. It's in the Service Manual but even some Honda mechanics don't know it.
 

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I'm acutally reading you in white, lol, since I'm using the Dark Mode option on this forum.



Yes, they are, and I've been quite happy with that set. (y)

Don't forget to use the opportunity to change your brake fluid and bleed your brakes in the correct order: driver's corner first, then clockwise. It's in the Service Manual but even some Honda mechanics don't know it.
Before you mentioned Centric.....Those were the rotors and pads that I was looking at.....

Yeah.....I also need to replace the rear hoses.....(They are original).....

I did not know that.....I always started at the farthest point from the master cylinder.....

Also....."clockwise" would be from the driver's seat position?....Correct?....

I probably won't do this job until late January.....

Thanks.....
 

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I did not know that.....I always started at the farthest point from the master cylinder.....

Also....."clockwise" would be from the driver's seat position?....Correct?....
Yes, that's correct. Let us know how it goes when you do it.
 

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$1200 for TB if that is US bucks is steep.
If you'd buy the Honda crank pulley tool and a 2 1/2' breaker bar in at least 1/2" drive, or better 3/4", you could do it yourself.
 

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$1200 for TB if that is US bucks is steep.
If you'd buy the Honda crank pulley tool and a 2 1/2' breaker bar in at least 1/2" drive, or better 3/4", you could do it yourself.
just got a quote two places in NJ $1350 they cover the water pump in 24k gold and install platinum plated screws
 

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$1200 for TB if that is US bucks is steep.
If you'd buy the Honda crank pulley tool and a 2 1/2' breaker bar in at least 1/2" drive, or better 3/4", you could do it yourself.
I'm more of a fan of the starter method. It was a huge timesaver for me... and no tools required:

You still need the crank pulley holder tool in order to set the crankshaft bolt final torque when you are done, however.

It's a big job, and one of the few jobs that if you screw it up a little, you can toast your engine. I did mine myself as a first timer, but I don't fault anyone for taking it to a pro. I must have watched the youtube videos 20 times to make sure I knew what I was doing.... and still had some "lessons learned"
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good for you, Nvdude. Do as much as you want to do, and let a shop do the rest! My two cents on the struts and shocks: I replaced all units on my 2003 with KYB, and I am happy with the results. I would hesitate to use 1A Auto parts, just because it's no-name stuff. The KYB parts are clearly high quality. I used their quick struts on the front, and they were identical to the oem Honda struts that I removed. Do what you want to do, but I would recommend KYB. I got my parts from Rock Auto, I've had good luck with them so far.
Thank you! That’s what I’ve been thinking. If I feel comfortable doing some of the repairs, then I can just take my time with them. I looked up the kyb shocks and struts and those look like the way to go! Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am also considering getting a fuel injection service done through the repair shop along with the timing belt and water pump. I have heard that it may be a waste of money, but I’m not sure. They’re going to charge $105 for labor and $55 for the injection cleaning kit. They said they remove the throttle and power wash it to get all of the carbon off. Is that necessary if it hasn’t been done before? They included a photo and I’m not sure if this is a lot of carbon build up or not. All of the input I have received has been well appreciated. Thank you all.
133576
 

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I would not pay for that service. You can buy a can of throttle body cleaner, and do this yourself. I hose it down, then get a rag and saturate it with TB cleaner, then scrub this area manually. I don't remove them unless there is an issue with the idle or stalling. Just take your time and try to get as much carbon from the plate and body as you can.

For the combustion chamber, I will run two consecutive tanks with Chevron Fuel System cleaner in there, I do this anytime I will be on a trip where it will get consumed immediately.
 

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Yes, that's correct. Let us know how it goes when you do it.
Thank you.....And I will.....

just got a quote two places in NJ $1350 they cover the water pump in 24k gold and install platinum plated screws
R.O.T.F.L.M.A.O......

$1200 for TB if that is US bucks is steep.
If you'd buy the Honda crank pulley tool and a 2 1/2' breaker bar in at least 1/2" drive, or better 3/4", you could do it yourself.
If you are not comfortable doing the timing belt and water pump job yourself.....Then.....take it to a shop.....

It is a time consuming job.....but not a hard job.....you just have to pay attention to detail.....

Let us know how it turns out.....
 

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just got a quote two places in NJ $1350 they cover the water pump in 24k gold and install platinum plated screws
I paid $1,069.39 (That was with a $100 discount) for the dealer to change the timing belt on my 2012 Pilot this past January. From what I've seen posted here that is in line with what several folks have paid a dealer.
 
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