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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've spent hours on Google and finally understood the problems with Honda's cylinder deactivation and Direct Injection. These are 2 preventable issues with Pilot.

The biggest mod I have ever done is adding a trailer hitch. All the cars I have ever owned are stock. Out of no reason, I always felt messing with stock design will cause the engine to explode or something o_O

After all the readings, I think I'll have to do both S-VCM and Oil catch can if I wish to keep my pilot for long. But, I really don't feel comfortable to pile on everything at once. Guess I'd feel more comfortable to do one at a time. Wait for few month, making sure no engine explosion before doing the next.

So, my question to you, car gurus, if you can only pick one project for now, which one would you install first?
 

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Concur with @aggrex I think the catch can is not nearly as important on the DI J35 as it is on many other DI vehicles. Check your oil level, if you aren't losing oil than you won't be catching much.
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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Wow, I realize you all have you reasons for your posts/advice.
My advice is, if it ain't broke, don't fix/add anything.

I have on 08 SE FWD w/ 185K, and now also have a 15 LX AWD w/ 65K.

Both run fine, and although I'm very good with a wrench, have rebuilt whole motors, etc.;
I'm not installing either- not yet anyways.
On the 08- runs fine, plugs look good, etc. Haven't even looked at the plugs on the 15, and won't until I feel I need to.

IMHO
 
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Wow, I realize you all have you reasons for your posts/advice.
My advice is, if it ain't broke, don't fix/add anything.

I have on 08 SE FWD w/ 185K, and now also have a 15 LX AWD w/ 65K.

Both run fine, and although I'm very good with a wrench, have rebuilt whole motors, etc.;
I'm not installing either- not yet anyways.
On the 08- runs fine, plugs look good, etc. Haven't even looked at the plugs on the 15, and won't until I feel I need to.

IMHO
I view it this way:

  1. I don't think I've ever driven a vehicle with cylinder deactivation that I liked the behavior. I'd always look to deactivate it because I don't value the .1 mpg gain over having it drive normal with no vibrations or weird noises or whatever else the cylinder deactivation causes.
  2. Start-stop systems are the same as number 1 IMO.
  3. Something like the catch can I look at based on need. If I had any of the German DI engines, which still have TONS of carbon problems even all these years later, I would install one. Or certain other vehicles that are known to have the issue. The fact is, the J35 doesn't so I think it's not necessary. I'm all for items that prevent more work/cost.
 

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2008 Honda Pilot EX-L 2013 Honda Pilot EX-L
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Wow, I realize you all have you reasons for your posts/advice.
My advice is, if it ain't broke, don't fix/add anything.

I have on 08 SE FWD w/ 185K, and now also have a 15 LX AWD w/ 65K.

Both run fine, and although I'm very good with a wrench, have rebuilt whole motors, etc.;
I'm not installing either- not yet anyways.
On the 08- runs fine, plugs look good, etc. Haven't even looked at the plugs on the 15, and won't until I feel I need to.

IMHO
That is what is so confusing to me about VCM. Some drive forever and have no problems and some have to spend thousands to rebuild their engine. I think if it's not affecting you, no need to change anything.

I don't buy into the "I paid for 6 cylinders so I want to have all 6 all the time" mentality. When I drove the Pilot with VCM, there was never any hesitation when I needed to quickly accelerate. If that hadn't been the case, I would be extremely upset.

Just do what works best for you. Neither of my Pilots burned oil prior to VCM being disabled and they don't now.
 

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That is what is so confusing to me about VCM. Some drive forever and have no problems and some have to spend thousands to rebuild their engine. I think if it's not affecting you, no need to change anything.

I don't buy into the "I paid for 6 cylinders so I want to have all 6 all the time" mentality. When I drove the Pilot with VCM, there was never any hesitation when I needed to quickly accelerate. If that hadn't been the case, I would be extremely upset.

Just do what works best for you. Neither of my Pilots burned oil prior to VCM being disabled and they don't now.
You don't have to buy it, those who experience it do. The issue wasn't full throttle hesitation, it's driving in traffic and being on and off the throttle a lot I would get a lot of vibrations as VCM would activate and deactivate. It also seems like the people with 3rd gens are getting weird transmission behavior while coasting and coming to a stop due to VCM.
 

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You don't have to buy it, those who experience it do. The issue wasn't full throttle hesitation, it's driving in traffic and being on and off the throttle a lot I would get a lot of vibrations as VCM would activate and deactivate. It also seems like the people with 3rd gens are getting weird transmission behavior while coasting and coming to a stop due to VCM.
The issues experienced with coasting is the Honda Grade Logic or whatever its called. I recently drove a non VCM Pilot and coasting, the transmission was unsure which gear to choose. Like it either wanted to downshift and do some engine braking, or basically be in neutral. I don't attribute that to VCM.
 

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That is what is so confusing to me about VCM. Some drive forever and have no problems and some have to spend thousands to rebuild their engine. I think if it's not affecting you, no need to change anything.

I don't buy into the "I paid for 6 cylinders so I want to have all 6 all the time" mentality. When I drove the Pilot with VCM, there was never any hesitation when I needed to quickly accelerate. If that hadn't been the case, I would be extremely upset.

Just do what works best for you. Neither of my Pilots burned oil prior to VCM being disabled and they don't now.
A VCM disabler is a preventative measure. Not something that you install after you have engine problems. I think people who mostly drive on the highway have more issues since VCM is active more than someone driving in a city environment. Do you drive on the highway a lot? It's great that you aren't having issues, but many people including myself would life to have the peace of mind that their engine won't have to be rebuilt.
 

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A VCM disabler is a preventative measure. Not something that you install after you have engine problems. I think people who mostly drive on the highway have more issues wince VCM is active more than someone driving in a city environment. Do you drive on the highway a lot? It's great that you aren't having issues, but many people including myself would life to have the peace of mind that their engine won't have to be rebuilt.
I do probably 20,000 miles a year and 10,000 of those are highway and 10,000 city. Maybe I'm not watching the tachometer enough to notice anything.
 

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The issues experienced with coasting is the Honda Grade Logic or whatever its called. I recently drove a non VCM Pilot and coasting, the transmission was unsure which gear to choose. Like it either wanted to downshift and do some engine braking, or basically be in neutral. I don't attribute that to VCM.
Honda Grade Logic has been around since the 90's, I remember my '96 Accord having a plaque or it being printed somewhere near the shifter. I don't have a 3rd gen but many members have installed a VCM disabler and commented how their deceleration issues disappeared. Enough that I would confidently recommend disabling the VCM to someone complaining of a similar issue. Either @Nail Grease or @STMech or one of the other more technical members had a mechanical reason for the issue.
 
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Honda Grade Logic has been around since the 90's, I remember my '96 Accord having a plaque or it being printed somewhere near the shifter. I don't have a 3rd gen but many members have installed a VCM disabler and commented how their deceleration issues disappeared. Enough that I would confidently recommend disabling the VCM to someone complaining of a similar issue. Either @Nail Grease or @STMech or one of the other more technical members had a mechanical reason for the issue.
I understand the issues, I just think its dangerous when new people come on here and ask questions and are immediately told that VCM is destroying their engine and transmission. They need to know both sides so they can make their own decisions. That's all I'm saying.
 

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Wow, I realize you all have you reasons for your posts/advice.
My advice is, if it ain't broke, don't fix/add anything.
The idea is to prevent it from breaking something. The VCM is a slow killer. Just amazes me at how Honda has created engine mounts designed the mask the extreme vibrations of a V6 engine being turned into an I 3. If it were not for these engine mounts, you would think your engine is broken.
I have on 08 SE FWD w/ 185K, and now also have a 15 LX AWD w/ 65K.

Both run fine, and although I'm very good with a wrench, have rebuilt whole motors, etc.;
I'm not installing either- not yet anyways.
On the 08- runs fine, plugs look good, etc. Haven't even looked at the plugs on the 15, and won't until I feel I need to.

IMHO
After I DIYd the Catalytic Converters, the emission codes returned soon after. I was at a crossroad with this vehicle, as to whether I'd keep it or not. If I had not found out about how VCM was destroying my engine, it would have been sold for parts by now.
You like to DIY? Pull your front valve cover and take a picture of your head and observe your extra oil blackened cylinder #4.
141118
 

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I understand the issues, I just think its dangerous when new people come on here and ask questions and are immediately told that VCM is destroying their engine and transmission. They need to know both sides so they can make their own decisions. That's all I'm saying.
All I know is that after the SVCM install, the car performed better than it did before. I wasn't having any serious symptoms either other than a slight hesitation when accelerating and excess engine braking from 40mph down. Also the tach needle is steady now when cruising. Admittedly, I have only had it on the car for a couple of weeks but I am very pleased at this point. Time will tell though.
 

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Now that I am driving out 08 SE more (185K), bone stock- I'm trying to watch the tach more, and get a 'feel' for anything. I also heighten my senses (is that a thing?), when I watch the ECO light going on and off when it should.
Still not near disabling it, on MY Gen 2.

* YES, I do realize there ARE definite advantages to disabling it, for some Pilots.
Who knows, maybe I'll take the plugs out next time, and the rear bank will look way different than the front ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What is the worst could happen if SVCM device fails? My guess is simply sending incorrect temperature to ECU, right? Shouldn't be any major issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Without S-VCM -> worst case is blown engine mounts, torque converter, several other engine issues. Repair will be in the thousands range.
With S-VCM -> worst case is wasting $100.

Since I am cheap when it comes to money, logic tells me to go with the least risky and cheapest route :p
 

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What is the worst could happen if SVCM device fails? My guess is simply sending incorrect temperature to ECU, right? Shouldn't be any major issues.
If S-VCM fails, your engine temp will be what your temperature sensor reads. Then your VCM will be active again.
 
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