[NCapurata]

I drove about 100 miles for work today (round trip and all on highway) and ended up averaging 24.5 MPG based on the trip computer. I did notice that when I coasting on flat lightly getting off the gas pedal seems to help in getting the MPG up. I did feel the difference in shifting and coasting. Shifts smoother I would say and when on flat or downhills, it seems you can get off the gas without minimal change.
Regarding the oil consumption, I reviewed the maintenance documentation and it seems the last oil change was done by the previous owner at 60k. I got the car at 63500, and now it has 64,920. Maybe it consumes about 1 qt. Per 5k.
Thanks for the inout and the comparison figures.

 

[WiiMaster]

I drove about 100 miles for work today (round trip and all on highway) and ended up averaging 24.5 MPG based on the trip computer. I did notice that when I coasting on flat lightly getting off the gas pedal seems to help in getting the MPG up. I did feel the difference in shifting and coasting. Shifts smoother I would say and when on flat or downhills, it seems you can get off the gas without minimal change.
Regarding the oil consumption, I reviewed the maintenance documentation and it seems the last oil change was done by the previous owner at 60k. I got the car at 63500, and now it has 64,920. Maybe it consumes about 1 qt. Per 5k.
Thanks for the inout and the comparison figures.

1 quart every 5k isn't really anything to be too concerned about, though it does seem a little much for an engine so new. It's definitely a lot better than my old 2010 Accord, which burned through a quart every 1k.

 

[sequoiasoon]

So it felt like a real drag with VCM enabled and operating, but with VCM disabled, it felt like the car would just freewheel as it coasted? I suppose the engine braking would be ONLY during VCM operation, right? So it'd feel more or less normal during deceleration when the engine was cold...like before it warmed up beyond 167*F? That's interesting.

For me even when cold it would downshift and apply a lot of engine braking. It just never "coasted" if you let off the gas, it would start to slow down right away. I don't know if VCM and the temp sensor would engage it somehow for the engine braking.

I would put it for me as driving my stick shift vehicles. Let off the gas and you are direct connection and it starts to slow down unless you push clutch in to coast. Now as you get closer to a stop sign/light down shift to 2nd let clutch out and get the added braking effect, then down shift to 1st gear at about 10mph and let clutch out, more braking effect. Maybe not to that an extreme feeling but it never coasted, and always down shifted almost like you tapped the brakes quickly.

Almost like a mild Jake Brake if you ever experienced one of them.

S-VCM eliminated that for me on the Pilot and just makes the coast and stop a lot smoother. Just like in the Accord, I never downshift to 1st until I'm basically stopped at the signs/lights.

 

[sequoiasoon]

1 quart every 5k isn't really anything to be too concerned about, though it does seem a little much for an engine so new. It's definitely a lot better than my old 2010 Accord, which burned through a quart every 1k.

According to most manufacturers now, 1qt per 1k is "acceptable" and not to be concerned. So far our Pilot doesn't burn any. Accord at almost 90k starts to show using some at about 5k as viscosity shears. MIGHT have something to do with the redline shifts on acceleration . All my stick shifts (Scirocco, Civic, Corolla, Sonata) had that same issue, must be a transmission problem . All went over 200k, a little oil added is cheap IMO. If started using more I would just change it as it was probably going out of spec viscosity. Cycle would repeat with barely any loss until about 5k.

Sequoia with I think 186k never burned a drop, never leaked a drop with 7500k changes. Sons 170k Forte burns a little, less than 1qt every 5k+ and he is not easy on it. Daughters 218k CRV uses less than a qt between changes.

Father-in-laws Renegade at 77k- better after software update but still about 2qts between changes and not driven hard, just a lot of short trips.

 

[sequoiasoon]

duplicate

 

[WiiMaster]

According to most manufacturers now, 1qt per 1k is "acceptable" and not to be concerned. So far our Pilot doesn't burn any. Accord at almost 90k starts to show using some at about 5k as viscosity shears. MIGHT have something to do with the redline shifts on acceleration . All my stick shifts (Scirocco, Civic, Corolla, Sonata) had that same issue, must be a transmission problem . All went over 200k, a little oil added is cheap IMO. If started using more I would just change it as it was probably going out of spec viscosity. Cycle would repeat with barely any loss until about 5k.

Sequoia with I think 186k never burned a drop, never leaked a drop with 7500k changes. Sons 170k Forte burns a little, less than 1qt every 5k+ and he is not easy on it. Daughters 218k CRV uses less than a qt between changes.

Father-in-laws Renegade at 77k- better after software update but still about 2qts between changes and not driven hard, just a lot of short trips.

That's true. But I don't really care what the manufacturer considers normal. 1 quart per 1k is not normal by any means on a standard consumer engine. After the hassle of swapping my 2010 Accord into the garage (outside my house isn't level so I can't measure level there) every 1k to add a quart of oil, I'm very grateful my 2012 Accord doesn't burn any measurable quantity. I've had the car for almost 4k miles now, and the oil is still just as full as when I got it, the dipstick hasn't changed at all.

 

[Maritime]

I put VCM disabler on at 78K Miles on my 2011 and changed my plugs, 3 were soot black and oily, 3 were still pretty good. I noticed almost 0 change in MPG but like others said I can change my MPG just by driving instead of my wife. I can get 3-4 MPG driving the same route as she does. The car runs better, I checked the plugs after 40K and they are all like new not 3 black 3 good anymore. I have 0 oil consumption and I change it on the MM which runs about 15K miles between 100% and 15%, using whatever full synthetic is on sale when the time comes. Have 140K miles on it now. I don't think my engine would be running like it does without shutting down VCM, it was cold this AM and my device took a little longer to kick in and eco came on for about 2 min and I felt it before I looked to see the light on. It makes the Pilot run like crap and hesitate and just plane sucks. After the 2 min my device kicked in and killed eco and boom it was running right again. -20 does that to it but not long. I bet your oil consumption was because you had VCM active and should decline a lot as you run with it deactivated. I'd check you plugs as well to see what shape they are in and swap the 3 that VCM shuts down if oil fouled.

 

[NCapurata]

I put VCM disabler on at 78K Miles on my 2011 and changed my plugs, 3 were soot black and oily, 3 were still pretty good. I noticed almost 0 change in MPG but like others said I can change my MPG just by driving instead of my wife. I can get 3-4 MPG driving the same route as she does. The car runs better, I checked the plugs after 40K and they are all like new not 3 black 3 good anymore. I have 0 oil consumption and I change it on the MM which runs about 15K miles between 100% and 15%, using whatever full synthetic is on sale when the time comes. Have 140K miles on it now. I don't think my engine would be running like it does without shutting down VCM, it was cold this AM and my device took a little longer to kick in and eco came on for about 2 min and I felt it before I looked to see the light on. It makes the Pilot run like crap and hesitate and just plane sucks. After the 2 min my device kicked in and killed eco and boom it was running right again. -20 does that to it but not long. I bet your oil consumption was because you had VCM active and should decline a lot as you run with it deactivated. I'd check you plugs as well to see what shape they are in and swap the 3 that VCM shuts down if oil fouled.

Thanks. Over the next two weeks my plan is to change the oil, transmission D&F, and differential fluids.
mill take the opportunity to look and the plugs as well.