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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellows Piloters! I hope everyone is doing fine. I would like to ask if anyone dealt with rusted bolts on the rear differential i need to replace the fluids? Also are there any good ideas or advice to take care some rust going on around the rear frame and Subframe? I live in NYC and just noticed the rust. My pilot runs fine and the front is free of rust it's just the rear has the issue. Thank you in advance!
 

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I’d put some penetrating oil on the drain and fill bolts a couple days before starting the job. It was difficult to tell from the photo, but if the bolts are in really bad shape order new ones before starting the job. Get new crush washers as well (they are two different sizes). Remove the fill bolt first. Make sure the square socket is fully seated into the hole before cranking on the bolt. Then do the same for the drain bolt.
And only replace with Honda or Acura VTM-4 fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’d put some penetrating oil on the drain and fill bolts a couple days before starting the job. It was difficult to tell from the photo, but if the bolts are in really bad shape order new ones before starting the job. Get new crush washers as well (they are two different sizes). Remove the fill bolt first. Make sure the square socket is fully seated into the hole before cranking on the bolt. Then do the same for the drain bolt.
And only replace with Honda or Acura VTM-4 fluid.
Thank you!
 

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The subframe rust doesn't look too bad. Typical for salt states - don't know what year but it looks better than mine ('09 in Massachusetts). Follow advice above for the drain and fill bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The subframe rust doesn't look too bad. Typical for salt states - don't know what year but it looks better than mine ('09 in Massachusetts). Follow advice above for the drain and fill bolts.
Thank you! Mine is a 2007 used to be in Chicago now NY.
 

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Also are there any good ideas or advice to take care some rust going on around the rear frame and Subframe? I live in NYC and just noticed the rust. My pilot runs fine and the front is free of rust it's just the rear has the issue
Follow the information provided for the VTM-4 fluid replacement. The timing is good to work on the subframe rust before it becomes a bigger problem. Inspect the unibody structure that supports the subframe and knock off loose debris/chips, rust converter, rattle can paint etc. Some owners use fluid film type products to slow or arrest the rust from getting worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Follow the information provided for the VTM-4 fluid replacement. The timing is good to work on the subframe rust before it becomes a bigger problem. Inspect the unibody structure that supports the subframe and knock off loose debris/chips, rust converter, rattle can paint etc. Some owners use fluid film type products to slow or arrest the rust from getting worse.
Thank you!
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Generously silicone lubricant spray your spare tire hoist a couple of days ahead of time as well, from the top where the inside of your emergency tire iron goes to lower the spare, as well as however much you can get in from the bottom. Hopefully then the hoist won't seize or jam up, and you'll be able to lower your spare. Why?

First, what use is a spare if you can't lower it when the time comes you need it?

Second, you'll have much easier access to your VTM-4 drain and fill holes.

Third, your OEM donut spare is well past its end of life. Put a full size spare up in there. It fits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Generously silicone lubricant spray your spare tire hoist a couple of days ahead of time as well, from the top where the inside of your emergency tire iron goes to lower the spare, as well as however much you can get in from the bottom. Hopefully then the hoist won't seize or jam up, and you'll be able to lower your spare. Why?

First, what use is a spare if you can't lower it when the time comes you need it?

Second, you'll have much easier access to your VTM-4 drain and fill holes.

Third, your OEM donut spare is well past its end of life. Put a full size spare up in there. It fits.
Thanks for the advise! Yes the spare is crucial and i have in mind to get a full size spare you never know when you may need it. I sprayed the entire area with liquid wrench penetrating oil, rust remover also got a metal brush and a couple of Rust Oleum rust reformer spray cans. I will attempt to work on it this coming weekend. Thanks again.
 

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PB Blast that sucker GENEROUSLY. More is better. And make sure to remove the "fill" bolt first, as if you take off the "drain" bolt and can't get the fill bolt, you'll be stuck with an empty rear diff. I've also found that torching/heating rusted bolts helps.

Just make sure to do all that prior to stripping the bolts, and you should be fine :)

--Chris N.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
PB Blast that sucker GENEROUSLY. More is better. And make sure to remove the "fill" bolt first, as if you take off the "drain" bolt and can't get the fill bolt, you'll be stuck with an empty rear diff. I've also found that torching/heating rusted bolts helps.

Just make sure to do all that prior to stripping the bolts, and you should be fine :)

--Chris N.
Thank you!
 
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