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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New member and a new to me 2014 Pilot EX. 110,000miles. It was fine for the test drive and for the next 2 days after. Maintenance history shows mostly oil changes, so I went to Autozone to get routine maintenance items. When I started the car (truck?) up to leave it barely ran and rpm's were around 300. Stalled several times. I was nursing it home (I live 2 blocks away)and then it began running fine. Was replacing the air filter when I got home and this is what I found! Like it was never changed ever. I replaced it and cleaned the MAF sensor. Runs fine now, but might be coincidence. My question is...do you think this nasty air filter was the cause of that problem? I don't see how it could breathe though that. Pic shows old and new filter.

142250
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is some thick black stuff on there. Some chunks actually fell off when I removed it.
 

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I recently cleaned my own installed, re-usable K&N filter on my Dodge V8 truck.
I had installed in over 17 years ago. I hadn't cleaned it in the last 10.
It was worse than that! No pic, sorry. Cleaned it and my check engine light went off and stayed off!
 

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I recently cleaned my own installed, re-usable K&N filter on my Dodge V8 truck.
I had installed in over 17 years ago. I hadn't cleaned it in the last 10.
It was worse than that! No pic, sorry. Cleaned it and my check engine light went off and stayed off!
I wouldn't consider a K&N after this video.
 

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Back to the original post; I doubt the filter caused the low idle, although a new filter may have improved throttle response somewhat. Possibly a sticky throttle plate and bore that needs cleaned. A sticking EGR valve can also cause low idle and stalls. Past that, you''ll have to catch in the act, or wait until it sets pending or permenant codes to get some diagnostic direction.
 

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Probably not the filter but a dirty MAF can cause some similar issues at least on some cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thank you. I never did get any code. I did clean out that mass airflow sensor and this weekend I will clean out the throttlebody. I'll have to look into that EGR thing, and clean that as well as clean the PCV, and the XYZ, and whatever else I can find.
 

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I wouldn't consider a K&N after this video.
It is on my Dodge Dakota V8 4.7. The K&N that is. I've done a few things, including the filter, that did dyno some gains. Mild factory Cams, 'Relocated' third Cat, 180degree thermostat, Tuner to reprogram the ECU thru the OBD port, etc.

On my Pilots, I run paper filters. I don't try and 'improve' any #'s like that - I'll never dyno them either.

Like at the grocery store and you're checking out- Paper or Plastic? LOL
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ha. Now I have a code. P0171 and P0174.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes. So I just sprayed it again, more thoroughly, and poured some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. If it comes on again I'll replace the MAF sensor and go from there.
 

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Yes. So I just sprayed it again, more thoroughly, and poured some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. If it comes on again I'll replace the MAF sensor and go from there.
Short bursts into the electrodes. Let dry out in the sun. I've even used a hair dryer to remove condensation.
 

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Have you checked that accordion hose from the air filter to the throttle body for cracking? Common issue that can be tough to see.

Also maybe look for other air leaks.
 

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Appears you have a scan tool to read codes. What was the freeze frame data for P0171 and P0174? In most DIY scan tools you can graph RPM, throttle position, MAF, MAP, B1S1, B2S1 A/F sensors, short and long term fuel trims for both banks. Then fully warm the engine, and do a WOT run through 1st and 2nd gear. It will reveal whether you have an air or fuel problem, and provide some diagnostic direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I'm not sure if my scanner does that. I'll have to check that out. Thank you. No cracks in that accordion hose. However, I cleaned the MAF again and so far so good. Maybe I will just purchase another Hitachi unit as good measure. So as a new owner I will do an oil change, new plugs, and the timing belt and associated parts. I've done at least 6 timing belts in the past. How hard can it be.

Thank you for your help.
 

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So as a new owner I will do an oil change, new plugs, and the timing belt and associated parts. I've done at least 6 timing belts in the past. How hard can it be.

Thank you for your help.
It’s about average on the timing belt difficulty scale. If you’ve done it before you should be fine. Make sure you get the Aisin kit from somewhere reputable like Rock Auto or go OEM from Honda. The gates water pump they provide in the Gates branded kit has caused lots of problems- avoid those for sure. Expect your oem tensioner to be leaking, not uncommon at all and should be replaced. The Aisin kit is about the best option since it’s all top quality components made by the oem or oem quality. Honda parts are a rip off for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Thank you. I ordered the Aisin kit from Rock Auto. I also purchased some OEM spark plugs and one of those VCM disabler thingies. I bought the $25 one. Should work just as well as the $75 one, or the $89 one, or the $109 one. I mean...that's a lot of money for a resistor and some wiring harness plugs.

Honda Acura VCM Pilot Accord Ridgeline Odyssey Muzzle Delete 3.5L
 

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I bought the $25 one. Should work just as well as the $75 one, or the $89 one, or the $109 one. I mean...that's a lot of money for a resistor and some plugs.
The S-VCM I bought does not require changing out resistors due to ambient air temperature. So $95 for hassle free disabling = no VCM activation, 100% of the time.
 

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Thank you. I ordered the Aisin kit from Rock Auto. I also purchased some OEM spark plugs and one of those VCM disabler thingies. I bought the $25 one. Should work just as well as the $75 one, or the $89 one, or the $109 one. I mean...that's a lot of money for a resistor and some wiring harness plugs.

Honda Acura VCM Pilot Accord Ridgeline Odyssey Muzzle Delete 3.5L
The S-VCM I bought does not require changing out resistors due to ambient air temperature. So $95 for hassle free disabling = no VCM activation, 100% of the time.
I saw the different resisters it comes with. Is that what they're for, different ambient temps?
 
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