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Hello, would greatly appreciate some solid advice here, apologies for ignorant statements below I am a self-taught home mechanic:

Background: I have a 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L that I am considering changing out the engine block as I just rebuilt the heads, replaced water pump, oil pump, camshafts, timing belt, etc, a few months ago but unfortunately a valve adjusting nut on one valve came off and caused cylinder 2 & 5 to break up (front and back heads, seem fine). I presently have top part of engine off, as well as oil pan and exhaust and trying to unlock the crankshaft as it has broken 2 & 5 cylinder pieces locking it up. I don't have a lift and I am working out of garage with jack stands, and can't afford a full new engine.

Questions:
1. Can I remove the rest of the engine block without taking out transmission with it? 1a. Do I need to unlock the crankshaft to do so or can I do it without unlocking the crankshaft?
2. If yes, can I do so without pulling out the radiator and front grill, like I've seen in some youtube videos?
3. If I remove AC and rest of stuff from engine block can I get it out through bottom or do i have to lift it out through the top?
4. Any other advice for replacing an engine piecemeal like this is appreciated. I have the time and tenacity, just not the cash:)
 

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Ok I see you got a good start on this. Obviously you have some skills. Don't worry with a little help from this forum and some links to DIY engine replacement it should be a piece of cake!
First good job using the jack stands. Never Never work on a car supported only by a hydraulic floor jack.

There are some good used engines on Ebay with warranties which I would of opted for but to late for that! Newbie Just kidding. Ha Ha

OK Question 1) Call your local auto parts store they rent tools for free, you just buy them and return for a complete refund. You need ask them for and please use the correct terminology or they won't know what your talking about. Ask them for a "Trans Bolt Stretcher" but this is very important ask for the one used for Honda's that has the HONDA specific crankshaft unlocking key!

2) Don't worry the radiator and front grill will be fine.

3) This is really your choice it's like the old expression some say potato, to be totally honest I have the full Honda tool kit because I love Honda's so much. What I do is just remove the side fender and that just lets you swing it out from the side. Ask the parts store for the engine remover roller kit. But make sure you tell them it's for a Honda and your removing it from the Drivers Side.

4) Time and tenacity is all you need really! Great job so far, to be honest with what you have already done your half way there, you definitely have what it takes to be an auto mechanic!

Hope this helps. :) :)
 

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I think it's best to drop the engine and transmission assembly down from underneath, and then seperate them for repairs. You will need to remove some front suspension parts to do this. Fair Warning: I have not dropped the assembly myself, just watched a YouTube video.

I would suggest that you check for a good used engine on Car-Part.com. Nationwide database of junkyard parts, with location and pricing shown.

Good luck with your engine swap!
 

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I think it's best to drop the engine and transmission assembly down from underneath, and then seperate them for repairs. You will need to remove some front suspension parts to do this. Fair Warning: I have not dropped the assembly myself, just watched a YouTube video.

I would suggest that you check for a good used engine on Car-Part.com. Nationwide database of junkyard parts, with location and pricing shown.

Good luck with your engine swap!
Last we heard, the engine was locked up. The engine can not be separated from the transmission until it can be rotated.
With the hood off, and heads removed I'm fairly confident it can be lifted out the top without drilling out the top bar of the radiator core support.
 

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Last we heard, the engine was locked up. The engine can not be separated from the transmission until it can be rotated.
With the hood off, and heads removed I'm fairly confident it can be lifted out the top without drilling out the top bar of the radiator core support.
I certainly wouldn't argue the point, because I have never pulled a Pilot engine. Maybe you can pull it from above! I hope that the OP will keep us informed as he does the work.
 

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1) Drop the engine, tranny and subframe as one. Not hard.

2) to separate the two you’ll need to gain access to the flex plate bolts. This requires you to rotate the engine. You’ll need to figure out how to unstuck the crank- hopefully something is lodged in place you can shimmy out Allowing it to rotate. Otherwise you’ll need to Remove the connecting rods. This may require you to break the block to access the rod bolts.
3) engines! I just got a 70k junk yard engine with 90 day warranty for $2200 shipped to my front door. This is by far the best deal I could find. You can have my short block however it needs to be line bored about 0.0040 over or more. Same with crank. When I ran the numbers it was cheaper to cut and run!

good luck
Matt
North Idaho
 

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How high do you need to lift the chassis to get the engine and transmission out from the bottom?
 

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If you can't get the engine to turn you can still separate them, the converter will stay with the flywheel. Make sure you replace the front trans seal and o ring on the converter. When you reinstall the converter make sure it's fully seated on the pump before reassembly.
 

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If you can't get the engine to turn you can still separate them, the converter will stay with the flywheel. Make sure you replace the front trans seal and o ring on the converter. When you reinstall the converter make sure it's fully seated on the pump before reassembly.
So this guy in the video at 24 min 20 sec. could have separated the engine transmission without all this extra work?
 

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Yes, that was a waste of time. The converter is retained in the trans by being bolted to the flywheel, it will easily slide apart, while still being hooked to the flywheel.
 

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If you can't get the engine to turn you can still separate them, the converter will stay with the flywheel. Make sure you replace the front trans seal and o ring on the converter. When you reinstall the converter make sure it's fully seated on the pump before reassembly.
Uhm, no because you can’t get to the other torque converter bolts since they are locked by the engine block. This just Opens a can if worms. Avoid.
 

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Lol, you can get to all of them with a wrench once the trans is off. If you'd rather waste a bunch of time though, have fun.
 

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Yes, that was a waste of time. The converter is retained in the trans by being bolted to the flywheel, it will easily slide apart, while still being hooked to the flywheel.
So the lesson here boys and girls is don't believe every YouTube video you see. Lol
 

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Lol, you can get to all of them with a wrench once the trans is off.
Though I appreciate the optimism, its is not possible without a BFH. Looking at a j35z4 block in my scrap pile, one can see there is insufficient clearance to remove the flex plate bolts. In this situation it’s best to break the block in strategic locations to either remove the rod bolts or the flex plate bolts (as I mentioned previously).

138635


138634
 

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Well as a Honda dealer tech, I have accomplished the impossible more then once. You CAN do it exactly as I said, in fact I performed that very miracle about 3 weeks ago.
 
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