My Mom and Dad bought this car new in 2005 and now has 160k miles and were terrible with the maintenance of the vehicle. The car has been my college age sister for the last 5 yrs. Almost all maintenance has been done by me here and there when I had time but I have a family and three other cars so this has been a pain.
The car still runs fine and I've done a few things in the last few years:
1. Catalytic converter from Honda
2. Transmission drain and fill
3. Battery and alternator
4. Front brakes (duralast gold disks and Bosch quiet cast ceramic pads) I did bleed them well.
5. Passenger drive axle replaced due to a broken CV boot
6. Drive belt 6-7 yrs ago.
Other than sporadic oil/filter changes by me and jiffy lube, this is ALL the maintenance that has been done. No check engine codes except for a bad wheel sensor and the car drips no fluids at all. Can you folks recommend further maintenance? I assuming all fluids need to be changed again, thermostat timing belt and water pump kit. But what else? Its been neglected for far too long! Help Please!
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I dont think any of those things have been done. My dad swears up and down he did the timing belt and water pump from some side work a honda tech was doing. Lol
Other than the timing belt, it hasn't really been neglected. These cars don't require much. Oil, transmission fluid and timing belt are really the most important. Rear differential fluid if it has VTM-4.
Common failures for the 2005 Pilot are the radiator (mixing coolant and tranny fluid), the front and passenger side motor mounts, and the lower control arm compliance bushings.
2005 is also the only year Pilot which has an internal serviceable tranny filter (which doesn’t require engine and tranny to be separated). I’ll be changing mine out later this year.
And don’t forget to vacuum the dust from the rear blower filter screen.
Good and often neglected advice, it doesn't appear in the owner's manual. It'll save you from scratching your head one day wondering why the there's no air, hot or cold, blowing out into the second row (spoiler: that thermistor, aka thermal resistor, aka thermal cutoff, aka rear power transistor, blew). The hardest part of this job is just finding out about it and then finding it.
To clean the rear blower fan, move the driver's seat all the way back, then remove the driver's side panel under the center console between the driver's seat and the gas pedal. The panel just snaps out and it's easiest if you start pulling near the gas pedal.
I will do the fan thermistor on the next oil change and clean the fan! This is gold! Thanks! One more question. This car is actually at 144k and I keep reading that the radiator and transmission are connected and when the radiator fails it screws the tranny. And this is noticed by a strawberry milkshake in the radiator overflow?? Is this true?? I have a 2013 pilot for my family as well and is this also true for that model year??? Who would design something to where if it fails it ....it causes you to replace two expensive components of your car and leave you stranded?
Does replacing the radiator now keep this from happening? How would that be? Is the problem within the radiator itself and not some coolant lines in another part of the car?
Replacing the thermistor is not necessary if the fan is still blowing. Just vacuum the dust on the mesh in front of the fan to improve airflow and reduce the chances of the thermistor failing.
I keep reading that the radiator and transmission are connected and when the radiator fails it screws the tranny. And this is noticed by a strawberry milkshake in the radiator overflow?? Is this true??
The original radiator in my 2005 and the OEM one I replaced it with had two different part numbers leading me to believe Honda/Denso identified the failure point and resolved it. There are far fewer reports of the pink milkshake on non-2005 Pilots on this forum.
If you decide to replace the radiator you might as well replace the thermostat, its gasket, and two radiator hoses while you’re in there.
Good point, In getting ready for radiator replacement. I'm thinking of hoses. At Rock Auto I see the brands from Gates, Dayco, ACDELCO , Continental. Theyre all about the same price. Are any of these OEM ? Another source? Id like to have a new cap and T-stat as well. I'll keep looking unless someone can suggest an OEM brand.
Yeah, ditto on the radiator. I had a 2005 up until 2 years ago until I got a 2017. I replaced the radiator AND the whole transmission. (Ideally, you won't need tranny. That's a hit or miss dice roll thing that could last decades... or not. But... mine went bad.)
The radiator hoses were mentioned, but carefully check every hose you can. Hoses are generally fairly cheap. (Though getting to some may be challenging.) But over time, and weather cycles, these can become brittle or the connections can become loose. All of a sudden, a stupid $15 part with a $1.00 clamp gets you stranded or through failure damages some other more expensive part.
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see anyone mention anything about checking/adjusting valve clearance. I have 203K miles on my '05 now but when I did mine at the 160K mark all of my exhaust valves were waaay too tight.
Good point. Honda does recommend doing a valve adjustment as early as the first timing belt service "if necessary." Did you have any symptoms that prompted you to do it?
Is this a 2wd or AWD?
Is this vehicle equiped with VCM?
Any Check Engine Light?
Any oil leaking around the top of the oil filter housing?
Just seems awfully early to have cats replaced.
If timing belt was changed, how long ago? There is not only milage recommendation but an age factor of 7 years.
My Mom and Dad bought this car new in 2005 and now has 160k miles and were terrible with the maintenance of the vehicle. The car has been my college age sister for the last 5 yrs. Almost all maintenance has been done by me here and there when I had time but I have a family and three other cars so this has been a pain.
The car still runs fine and I've done a few things in the last few years:
1. Catalytic converter from Honda
2. Transmission drain and fill
3. Battery and alternator
4. Front brakes (duralast gold disks and Bosch quiet cast ceramic pads) I did bleed them well.
5. Passenger drive axle replaced due to a broken CV boot
6. Drive belt 6-7 yrs ago.
Other than sporadic oil/filter changes by me and jiffy lube, this is ALL the maintenance that has been done. No check engine codes except for a bad wheel sensor and the car drips no fluids at all. Can you folks recommend further maintenance? I assuming all fluids need to be changed again, thermostat timing belt and water pump kit. But what else? Its been neglected for far too long! Help Please!
Water pump, tensioning pully when you do the timing belt. Over 100K miles the spark plugs need to be changed. The fuel injectors are probably filthy and not lubricated especially if using cheap gas. I'd definitely start using Lucas gas treatment, quart bottle is the cheapest, just add a few ounces, there are lines on the side of the bottle. Add at every fill-up for the first month then every rd week unless your using the cheap gas. Do some mileage test first so you can see the difference.
Keep the same weight, people plus gas. Fill to the same amount to do an accurate check. Check with either 1 person or two people what ever is your norm. Use Exxon/Mobile 89 octane and see how much the mileage goes up along with the Lucas Gas treatment as the injectors get cleaned and lubricated. Both of my cars went from 15-19 MPG on one and 17 to 21on the 2010 Pilot.
since your in salt/rust area inspect your rear subframe for rust, if its not bad treat it with Eastwood rust converter and anti rust (unfortunately as you can see, I didn't treat the rear subframe, just focused on doors and rocker panels - I am waiting for my subframe mount to separate then weld in a repair piece ).
I didn't treat the rear subframe, just focused on doors and rocker panels - I am waiting for my subframe mount to separate then weld in a repair piece ).
I purchased a length of box steel, then cut out one side (I have two pieces of course). My plan is to fit in, mark the location for a bolt hole in it and floor, drill holes, reinstall and weld in place. Also add the floor reinforcement as discussed previously. (It has a 4" inside measurement, 1/4" steel, I think its A500 steel need to check).
My whole ERG system was clogged, I ended up using Easy Off to clean the plenum cover and a 40 caliber bore brush to clear the ports, replaced the PCV valve and put in an aftermarket ERG valve for $180
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