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2005 Honda Pilot, 194,000 miles
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I think my right wheel bearing took a crap. Took the brakes, drum shoes off and realized you have to press out the hub which destroys the bearing. Ok so now I’m doing a wheel bearing, placed order on rock auto. Can’t get a rent-a-tool to fit to remove the bearing/hub so I remove the entire knuckle for access. Decide while I have some down time waiting on parts to remove my other wheels to do a tire rotation. Left side rear wheel stud snaps so now I’m doing both rear wheel hubs/bearings. AWESOME. Another rock auto order. I get the bearing and hub removed, press in the new bearing, install the C clip, install the new hub and It pressed the back half of the bearing out of the knuckle. Awesome, so now I have to remove the new bearing and hub. There goes $50! Once that happens I place an order on rock auto again to get a new wheel bearing and hub (the bearing face mates with the hub so slim chance to get that off of the new hub so I just ordered a new one.) it was supposed to be delivered on Friday. Paid $45 for shipping. I live in nampa idaho and I get a shipping notification that my rock auto package was delivered to Salt Lake City Utah. Awesome LOL so now I’m disputing the delivery of a package with DHL, I have no parts, I’m left with putting oreillys master pro hubs and bearings on my pilot after I purchased Timken bearings and Durango hubs. I will die before I do another set of rear wheel bearings. I got them pressed in this afternoon after 2 weeks of stressing. I just can’t wait to put it all together and not have to worry about this anymore LOL also, how the hell do you not warp the crap out of the backing plates when you are pressing out the old hubs and bearings? I tried 3 different ways. One with a rent-a-tool, and two different configurations with a hydraulic press and all 3 ways resulted in a warped backing plate for the parking brake. So now once I get the knuckle installed I’ll have to carefully bend it back to how it was before. I’ve never had trouble working on my pilot until now. Don’t get me wrong, I love it. But this, this is taxing 😂😂
 

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So I think my right wheel bearing took a crap. Took the brakes, drum shoes off and realized you have to press out the hub which destroys the bearing. Ok so now I’m doing a wheel bearing, placed order on rock auto. Can’t get a rent-a-tool to fit to remove the bearing/hub so I remove the entire knuckle for access. Decide while I have some down time waiting on parts to remove my other wheels to do a tire rotation. Left side rear wheel stud snaps so now I’m doing both rear wheel hubs/bearings. AWESOME. Another rock auto order. I get the bearing and hub removed, press in the new bearing, install the C clip, install the new hub and It pressed the back half of the bearing out of the knuckle. Awesome, so now I have to remove the new bearing and hub. There goes $50! Once that happens I place an order on rock auto again to get a new wheel bearing and hub (the bearing face mates with the hub so slim chance to get that off of the new hub so I just ordered a new one.) it was supposed to be delivered on Friday. Paid $45 for shipping. I live in nampa idaho and I get a shipping notification that my rock auto package was delivered to Salt Lake City Utah. Awesome LOL so now I’m disputing the delivery of a package with DHL, I have no parts, I’m left with putting oreillys master pro hubs and bearings on my pilot after I purchased Timken bearings and Durango hubs. I will die before I do another set of rear wheel bearings. I got them pressed in this afternoon after 2 weeks of stressing. I just can’t wait to put it all together and not have to worry about this anymore LOL also, how the hell do you not warp the crap out of the backing plates when you are pressing out the old hubs and bearings? I tried 3 different ways. One with a rent-a-tool, and two different configurations with a hydraulic press and all 3 ways resulted in a warped backing plate for the parking brake. So now once I get the knuckle installed I’ll have to carefully bend it back to how it was before. I’ve never had trouble working on my pilot until now. Don’t get me wrong, I love it. But this, this is taxing 😂😂
I haven't had to do this job yet, but now you got me hoping I never have to. I just remember a good tip given by @andywatson that you can put your new bearings in the freezer. This shrinks the bearing ever so slightly, so it presses in easier.
What's up with the RA delivery?
 

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Is the job anything like the rear wheel bearing replacement on a CR-V?

 

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2007 Pilot EXL, 2012 Civic LX, 2007 VTX1300C
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the FSM just says "be careful not to deform the backing plate"
also references this tool for removal : 07gaf-sd40100
after that things get really complicated and would probably leave me with taking the whole knuckle assembly to a shop!
whenever I needed axle bearings replaced on my Jeep because of wild off-roading trips, I'd remove the shaft and bring it with a new bearing over to a garage and let them have at it :D

I won't attempt ANY repair project on my (wifes) Pilot before first reading the FSM and second, seeing what idiots have attempted the repair on youtube, and lastly, watching a real mechanic (south main auto) do the repair. sometimes if you rush, you find yourself skipping a very minor but extremely important step which unfortunately equates to doing the job over again, and maybe again and again :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I haven't had to do this job yet, but now you got me hoping I never have to. I just remember a good tip given by @andywatson that you can put your new bearings in the freezer. This shrinks the bearing ever so slightly, so it presses in easier.
What's up with the RA delivery?
I tried that, it seemed to help. The bearing went in just fine!

And I have no idea. I used their suggested address for shipping. All the numbers are correct. I think the problem is DHL shipping. They screwed up. But I was not happy, I had been relying on those parts to get the job done and I got let down. Rock auto has been my go-to for some time now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the FSM just says "be careful not to deform the backing plate"
also references this tool for removal : 07gaf-sd40100
after that things get really complicated and would probably leave me with taking the whole knuckle assembly to a shop!
whenever I needed axle bearings replaced on my Jeep because of wild off-roading trips, I'd remove the shaft and bring it with a new bearing over to a garage and let them have at it :D

I won't attempt ANY repair project on my (wifes) Pilot before first reading the FSM and second, seeing what idiots have attempted the repair on youtube, and lastly, watching a real mechanic (south main auto) do the repair. sometimes if you rush, you find yourself skipping a very minor but extremely important step which unfortunately equates to doing the job over again, and maybe again and again :rolleyes:
Yeah they don’t tell you exactly how to not deform the backing plate because they don’t know how to either. I also called any local shop in my area if they could get them worked on. They all said they were booked out for a few days, didn’t have a free tech to tackle them, or they aren’t allowed to install customer purchased parts.
 

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I tried that, it seemed to help. The bearing went in just fine!

And I have no idea. I used their suggested address for shipping. All the numbers are correct. I think the problem is DHL shipping. They screwed up. But I was not happy, I had been relying on those parts to get the job done and I got let down. Rock auto has been my go-to for some time now.
I've had DHL deliveries. I can't knock their service but it's not like they ever get it to you ahead of time like FedEx or the Postal Service will sometimes.
 
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Just be happy your not in a salt state, because the control arm bolts corrode in. Then your cutting and replacing arms along with the bearings.:mad:
Lets not forget all the broken weld-nuts or rusted beyond repair uni-body cross members courtesy of our state funded annual salt bathes :mad: I do thank the Lord when rusty bolts come loose.....
 

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Lets not forget all the broken weld-nuts or rusted beyond repair uni-body cross members courtesy of our state funded annual salt bathes :mad: I do thank the Lord when rusty bolts come loose.....
Had a couple of broken loose weld nuts when I replaced the hitch, one I could reweld through the hole behind the rear bumper reinforcement mounts. The other I used a nut, and lock washer fed in through the same hole with one of those magnet sticks.
 

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I would totally watch that video, but I don’t want to have any flashbacks of the PITA job I just went through 😂😂
If you did watch the video, you'd see that the first half involves wrestling with several extra crusty nuts and bolts, just so that the knuckle can be moved far enough to allow the axle/driveshaft to be removed.
There's lots of persuasion using an impact hammer required - plus the induction heater (rather than a torch) makes a rare appearance.
The subsequent removal and installation of the wheel bearing is almost anticlimactic by comparison, but you do get to see the tools used for that process.
 

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I also called any local shop in my area if they could get them worked on. They all said they were booked out for a few days, didn’t have a free tech to tackle them, or they aren’t allowed to install customer purchased parts.
My past experience with previous vehicles and local independent shops was that either they declined to install customer purchased parts or, if there was some sort of "problem" with those parts, then you had to pay any extra labor charges that resulted - and there always seemed to be a problem.
If you let the shop use the "brand X" parts of their choice, then, by the time they marked them up, the total cost of the job was not all that much less than going to the dealer - where you would get OEM parts.
Also, while the dealer has a shuttle service, getting the local independent shop to provide me with a ride was next to impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you did watch the video, you'd see that the first half involves wrestling with several extra crusty nuts and bolts, just so that the knuckle can be moved far enough to allow the axle/driveshaft to be removed.
There's lots of persuasion using an impact hammer required - plus the induction heater (rather than a torch) makes a rare appearance.
The subsequent removal and installation of the wheel bearing is almost anticlimactic by comparison, but you do get to see the tools used for that process.
I did watch it. Seemed pretty labor intensive to fight all those rusty bolts. Gladly mine didn’t look like that. I chose to remove the rear knuckle completely which required a lot of disassembly but made pressing the bearing and hub in a possibility. Just got it done, it’s off the Jack stands and driving perfect. Just need to adjust the parking brake shoes once I get a few miles on them.
 

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My past experience with previous vehicles and local independent shops is that either they declined to install customer purchased parts or, if there was some sort of "problem" with those parts, then you had to pay any extra labor charges that resulted - and there always seemed to be a problem.
If you let the shop use the "brand X" parts of their choice, then, by the time they marked them up, the total cost of the job was not all that much less than going to the dealer - where you would get OEM parts.
Also, while the dealer has a shuttle service, getting the local independent shop to provide me with a ride was next to impossible.
You could just throw your bicycle in the back of the Pilot and pedal back home. 🤔
 
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