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Discussion Starter #1
The car is riding noticeably louder lately with a wump wump wump sound that increases with speed. I took it to he local tire chain, and ended up with a quote for $1400 to replace control arms, shocks, and an alignment. Seems steep.

I'm considering tackling this myself but I am not really confident in their diagnostic. My rear tires are worn on the inside and have a slight unevenness to the treads in that area. Visually the camber is slightly negative with the car not loaded but the overall rear does not look like its sagging.

I have read through various threads on this seemingly common issue here and on other forums and have narrowed it down to

The springs being worn and and the rear sitting lower than it should. Is there a way to measure this?
Upper control arm bushings causing negative camber.
Shocks causing the even bumpy wear and the wump wump sound.

Am I missing anything. Maybe hopefully it's just one or two of the three?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 

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One could definitely DIY the springs, rear shocks and upper control arms. Mostly depends upon your skill level and willingness to invest in safely lifting your Pilot and securing with jack stands. Check out Rock Auto for the parts. My guess is <350 for the above parts
 

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Start with new KYB rear shocks.




Then, if you still have negative camber, get adjustable upper rear control arms.

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Discussion Starter #4
Start with new KYB rear shocks.




Then, if you still have negative camber, get adjustable upper rear control arms.

More Information for MEVOTECH GS60168



Don't forget your Piloteers 5% discount.
I was trying to sort this out in my head on how shocks could affect camber. As I understand they don't actually change the height of the vehicle. Rather the springs do. Maybe I have that mixed up.

To see if sag is causing negative camber. Would a valid test be to lift the rear end so the wheels lift if the ground and then to lower it slightly so the the wheels make contact again but don't have the full weight on them. In theory they should be closer to 90 deg vertical right?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think my biggest fear as usual with diy is the amount of rust the car has accumulated. I could be stuck trying to sort out 1 bolt for hours
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So support air bags look like they are about the same cost as a replacement set of springs. So if my springs are sagging just due to age, would it be safe to leave them and just add a rubber bag to compensate for the height? It would be useful as we do tend to load up the car in the summer for long trips. Or if the springs are sagging would I need to do both?
 

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My rear tires are worn on the inside and have a slight unevenness to the treads in that area. Visually the camber is slightly negative with the car not loaded but the overall rear does not look like its sagging.
This is why I suggested the above.
 

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I think my biggest fear as usual with diy is the amount of rust the car has accumulated. I could be stuck trying to sort out 1 bolt for hours
Yes got love living in the rust belt.
Curious, how often do you rotate your tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes got love living in the rust belt.
Curious, how often do you rotate your tires.
I tack them on to every oil change at 5K since I supposedly get free rotations from the place I purchased the rubber from. I never really check their work and now I suspect they have not been doing it. The front tires look almost new. All four have about 20k on em.
 

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We have a 2007 Pilot and had a similar sound. It was a bad rear bearing. Maybe find a trustworthy, local mechanic and get a second opinion.


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We have a 2007 Pilot and had a similar sound. It was a bad rear bearing. Maybe find a trustworthy, local mechanic and get a second opinion.


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Yes, also worth looking into.
 

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So support air bags look like they are about the same cost as a replacement set of springs. So if my springs are sagging just due to age, would it be safe to leave them and just add a rubber bag to compensate for the height? It would be useful as we do tend to load up the car in the summer for long trips. Or if the springs are sagging would I need to do both?
If you have severe sag you probably should replace the springs and if considering the air bags install them at the same time. Look at Firestone W237604135 Coil-Rite Kit . Figure a method to pump the air bags up with air when needed as they will lose air periodically.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just replaced the shocks. That was super easy! I've never had a job go smoothly where I'm not swearing at bolts for 45 minutes. Upper adjustable arms on order
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you have severe sag you probably should replace the springs and if considering the air bags install them at the same time. Look at Firestone W237604135 Coil-Rite Kit . Figure a method to pump the air bags up with air when needed as they will lose air periodically.
I'm not sure it's "severe". If I compare the measurement from the ground to the top of the wheel arch the back is only 3/4 of an inch lower. Is it supposed to be the same or higher? We do take the Pilot with 5 people full trunk and cargo box on top and 4 bikes on the hitch for several 500+ mile trips in the summer. We never tow anything. Not sure if that is worth the hassle with the bags.
 

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If your tires are worn and have any cupping or odd wear pattern(s) then they can make all sorts of strange noises.

An easy trick is to rotate the tires to the front and see if the sound move with the tires, that could immediately tell you if the sound/problem is due to the bad treads...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Replaced the springs and shocks and installed adjustable control arms this Sunday. Took a lot longer this time around with 6 hours spent trying to remove 1 bolt and install another. I had to grind off the castle nut on one of the control arms and then I found it very difficult to re-align the holes for the wheel hub and the arm that holds the spring on the left driver side. Once together I did have some scary loud clunks coming from the rear end after driving off for the first time. Took off the tires checked my work but nothing was obviously wrong. As I drove off a second time it still clunked every rotation or so but softer and softer until it clunked no longer. What could this have been???

The rear end sits very noticeably higher at least a few inches. I'm sure at least my camber is off and likely the toe. I hear that new springs will settle. How long and how far should I wait to get it aligned? Or should I wait at all?
 

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Since there is some clunking what is the condition of the spring mounts and seats? Springs aligned correctly in the spring seat? Set the new control arms to the length of the old ones? Inform the tech what has been replaced adjustable arms, springs and shocks. Springs will settle.
 
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