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Discussion Starter #1
Figured I’d share my story in hope that other’s don’t have to suffer needlessly. If you decide to replace your rear shocks be prepared for possible cutting of the OEM lower bolts. Here’s my story…

2010 Pilot with only 50k. Not happy with the overall ride and we also take it up to the Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming every year. So I decided to swap the factory rear shocks for the KYB Excel-G (349151). Ordered 2 new shocks from Rock Auto (around $120 delivered).

Have done some work on cars before; not a noob. Used PB-blaster on the upper and lower bolts and let them soak. No signs of rust/corrosion. Impact gun and all the other tools at hand to get the job done. Jacked the Pilot up on the frame and supported the lower control arms so the lower bolts did not have any stress on them. Upper bolts came off with the impact gun in 10 seconds.

Lower bolt (17 mm) was another story. Impact gun did nothing. Breaker bar snapped the bolt in half. Decided to try extra PB-blaster and torch heat on the other side. Same result – broken bolt. Ended up using the trusty sawzall and had to make 2 cuts. Cut 1 was the inside middle of the lower shock tube and cut 2 was the outside of the welded nut that the bolt threads into. This way I was able to pull the shock and bolt chunks out. I then used a grinder to smooth the boss where the welded nut used to be. Replaced the OEM bolt/nut with aftermarket Grade 8 bolt/nut/split washer combo.

Extra cost was minimal, maybe $10 in parts + a few sawzall blades. Cost in time was an extra few hours.

Final result? New setup looks clean and Pilot rides fine. No clunking or other strange noises from the new non-OEM bolt setup. Ride is yet TBD since my next Wyoming trip is in July (some trout are sure to die ;-)

I’ve read other threads here on rear shock replacement and don’t recall anyone having the problems I described. Sorry for the long-winded post but figured I’d share all the same.
 

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That's a tough break.:mad::mad:
 

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I just had a similar issue last week when doing my rear shocks and front struts. The rear passenger side lower bolt came out without any problem, Driver's side was a RPITA. I was able to back it out almost 3/4 of the way but the threads bound up in the metal sleeve. Ordered 2 bolts from the dealer (9 bucks) and waited till they got in on Thursday. Cut the lower driver's side bolt as close in as possible and used an air hammer to knock it back inside the shock. Made sure all threads had a nice coating of anti seize compound when reassembling. Hit the areas where the saw removed the paint with a bit of Rust-Oleum and good to go
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I live in Minnesota so lots of salt in the winter. It seemed like my bolts were stuck to the inside of the lower shock tube. They spun in the threaded nut but I couldn't get them out without cutting. Nice thing about a loose nut is I can remove it and bang them backwards next time.
 

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A little less salt here in Columbus. Had they turned around how the bolt went in, the threads would have been more protected from spray kicked up by the front wheels. If I had a smaller diameter punch for my air hammer, I believe I could have driven it out. I didn't try putting the hammer under the lip of the bolt head and seeing if that worked.

Hopefully I can get 100K or 5yrs out of these KYB shocks. I went with the same ones from Rock Auto. Have a short trip up to Toledo in a couple days on farm roads so it will be interesting to see how the Pilot does.
 

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Greetings,just for the record I had the same issue with my drivers side rear,the lower bolt was seized in the shock bushing.It was a royal PITA to remove but got it done, strange thing was the other side came out with no problem whatsoever.I had to use a grade 8 bolt with washers and locknut like you had explained. I just hope the rest of the suspension is not like this when its time replace kinda gets me worried about the quality of the components Honda decided to use on the pilot
 

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The rear shocks finished out my suspension maintenance and the drivers side lower bolt was the only mechanical issue I encountered. There were self induced issues (see my post on the front struts) but everything else came apart fairly easy for 110K and five winters.

I did the following components:
Front sway bar end links
Front sway bar bushings
Front struts (ordered complete units)
Rear shocks.

Took it up to Toledo this weekend, couple hundred miles each way and she rode and handled great, even on all the torn up highways in and around the Toledo area.
 

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I just replaced the drivers side without any issues. The passenger side was shot and I torqued the bolt hard enough to break the weld. Looks like a cut is in order.

Did you guys get the bolt at a dealership? What about the replacement nut and washer?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just replaced the drivers side without any issues. The passenger side was shot and I torqued the bolt hard enough to break the weld. Looks like a cut is in order.

Did you guys get the bolt at a dealership? What about the replacement nut and washer?
I just used a high-grade bolt/flat washer/split washer/nut combo from a local hardware store. Don't recall the exact size. Suggest you take the old bolt with you if you go that route. As I recall the dealer wanted something like $6 per bolt and you'd still need to find the washers/nuts somewhere.
 

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I just used a high-grade bolt/flat washer/split washer/nut combo from a local hardware store. Don't recall the exact size. Suggest you take the old bolt with you if you go that route. As I recall the dealer wanted something like $6 per bolt and you'd still need to find the washers/nuts somewhere.
I ordered the bolt from the stealership. Don't want any rattles.
 

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Ok, so it took me 4 hours!!! To replace one shock. I ended up having to grind the bolt off on both ends and pull it out.

I think what happens is the fluid from the shock leaks to the rubber, harderns the rubber enough to "weld" to the bolt.
 

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Today I replaced the original rear shocks on my 2009 EX-L with 146,000 miles, took me about two hours in my driveway. The only tough part was removing the lower bolts. I was able to break both free but getting them to pull through and out was tricky. Had to use a combination of vice grips, open ended sockets to apply pressure while turning the bolt. Had it not been for this slow down, this would have been an under one hour job easy.

I replaced them with original equipment Honda parts, didn't want to change the ride quality from OEM which I found very nice.

Both of the old shocks looked to be in good shape, no leaks, but when I compressed them the didn't return to the extended position. Initial test ride definitely showed some improvement in ride quality, slight bouncing and loose feeling in turns is now gone.
 
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