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3/8 inch socket wrench. An extension makes it easier, and I find it easier to drop the spare tire. I do not find it necessary to lift the vehicle.
 

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I started changing my own fluid in our 2016 Pilot (now a 2017, but that's another story) after seeing that it's required every 15k miles and it's not included in the dealer's "Free Service for 2 Years". I learned that's only oil changes & tire rotation.

Anyway, I bought a gallon of fluid at the dealer (~$35) to make sure I got the right stuff, and a hand at the auto parts store ($10). The pump screws on to the jug and includes tubing to pump it in to the diff. Since it needs 3 quarts I have enough fluid to do the 4th change for free, so that averages to about ~$30 each.

The process was pretty easy. I did pull out the spare just to give me a little more head room when sliding under (plus I can inspect the spare and check the pressure). As another person said, use a ratchet with extension (3/8" I think) to pull the plug and drain the fluid. Then pump the fluid in until it starts coming out the fill hole. No need to jack up the vehicle.

Two tips - (a) Warm fluid will drain much quicker, and (b) Remove the fill-plug first. You don't want to drain the fluid and then realize you can't get the fill plug loose.
 

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Yeah, I didn't have the time today to take care of my own B16 on my 2017 Pilot Touring B16. We were at 13,333 miles.

My total at the dealership was an astonishing $366.
--It was $248 for the diff service. They used the BG stuff. It was $72 a quart and of course it needs 2 quarts.
--The oil change was $47, which I am fine with. They use Penzoil Platinum full synthetic 0W-20
--They managed to sneak a tire balance in past me, along with the rotation which was $60. I complained about this shady maneuver and the service writer claims to have told me it was both a balance and a rotation.
 

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Thanks everyone who contributed to this thread. We just got the B16 on my wife's 2017 Pilot at 15k miles. I decided to do this myself and let my local shop do the oil change and tire rotate. I have never done an oil change on a vehicle, but I have done my lawn mower twice a year, so I decided to give this a try.

I ordered the following items:
3 quarts Honda Genuine 08200-9007 Dual Pump II Differential Fluid
Honda Genuine OEM Rear Differential Drain / Fill Plug Washers (20mm) - 94109-20000
Honda Genuine OEM Automatic Transmission Drain Plug Washers (18mm) - 90471-PX4-000
Performance Tool W1139 Quart/Gallon Fluid Pump

I also watched 2 youtube videos and the biggest tips I got out of them was 1) to use a big piece of cardboard on the garage floor to catch any fluid spills and 2) to use an oil pan to catch the liquid (I also used a cut off milk jug to catch most of it)

I followed the procedure word by word with the following extra notes:
I was able to loosen both plus with my 3/8" socket with no extension and tapping on it with a mallet. Drained the fluid and then pumped a little new fluid in until I saw clear fluid running out. Put the plug back in. Filled with 2 quarts. Ran the engine for 1 minute then was able to to put in about 1/4 more quart. Total amount was 2.25 quarts. Prep and cleanup took 30 minutes and the procedure was 30 minutes, for a total of 1 hour. Next time I bet I can knock the whole thing out in 30 minutes.
 

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If you have problems finding a source of Honda DPFII 08200-9007 there is a alternative that is manufacture by same company that supplies Honda.


ENEOS Import DPS Fluid by JX Nippon Oil & Energy.
ENEOS Import DPS Fluid | ENEOS

Sold by Napa Auto parts. Priced not that bad and your not paying for shipping for local store pickup. However, online sales they will not ship it, only pickup at store.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/AOC3410300


Chemically they are not identical, Honda is red in color, ENEOS is more orange. So while your still in warranty I recommend staying with Honda.
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I plan on doing this next month however my garage floor is not completely level. what’s the best way to ensure I put in the proper amount of fluid? I was thinking of jacking the rear or the car up enough and use a level on a side skirt to get as close to level as possible. Probably best to put a little more vs a little less if the car is leaned forward (engine lower) a little bit? Thoughts?
 

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I plan on doing this next month however my garage floor is not completely level. what’s the best way to ensure I put in the proper amount of fluid? I was thinking of jacking the rear or the car up enough and use a level on a side skirt to get as close to level as possible. Probably best to put a little more vs a little less if the car is leaned forward (engine lower) a little bit? Thoughts?
Shouldn't be a problem as is, your floor angle cannot be that far off level to make a difference. But you could drive the low wheels onto some scrap plywood to raise the low end.
 

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So the rear differential on the pilots is closed and they have an electrical pump to circulate the fluid? I think I hear the pump...is that normal??
 

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So the rear differential on the pilots is closed and they have an electrical pump to circulate the fluid? I think I hear the pump...is that normal??
Pump #15 is bolted to the side of the differential. It runs all the time so you might hear it, but I suspect it might be the fuel pump that you hear in the plastic tank.






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I just passed 39,800 miles. I had the dealership change the differential around 10,000 miles for the first time. I just popped a B1 code for oil and was expecting a 6 as well. I’m torn if I should just replace the differential on Monday when I change the oil even though it has not coded yet. I already picked up the fluid and a pump.

Edit: I got bored and changed the oil today but got lazy and didn’t feel like attempting the differential. Going to wait for the good old “6” to light up.
 

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My 19 touring is showing b6 code at 10,000 miles. I thought rear differential fluid change is at 15k miles.
What oil life is showing as remaining? Mine just popped up also around 10000 miles but I still have 90% oil life left. I will probable get another 7500-9000 miles before getting down to 10% or so. That means that the rear differential will be done then, and the car will have over 15000 miles on it.

The maintenance minder shows you what services will need to be done at the next oil change, not what has to be done immediately when the code pops up.
 

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What oil life is showing as remaining? Mine just popped up also around 10000 miles but I still have 90% oil life left. I will probable get another 7500-9000 miles before getting down to 10% or so. That means that the rear differential will be done then, and the car will have over 15000 miles on it.

The maintenance minder shows you what services will need to be done at the next oil change, not what has to be done immediately when the code pops up.
Oil life is down to 10% and I’m about to schedule an appointment with the dealership.
 

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Oil life is down to 10% and I’m about to schedule an appointment with the dealership.
Wow, you must only be getting about 5000 miles per oil change, correct? The first change would have been an "A" and now the "B" and the 6. Have you had the "1" for tire rotation? Mine came up around 7000 miles or so if I recall.
 

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Usually the initial 15k differential fluid change shows up on the second oil change as a B16. So if you do a lot of city driving your looking at 10k very easily. Both of mine were all highway with B16 popping up around 18k.
 

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I do a lot of city driving and this will be my 2nd oil change at 5k miles per oil change. Code “1” hasn’t popped up yet, maybe when oil life goes down to 5%.
 
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