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I don't know for sure, but it definitely looks like generic thermal grease. All you need is a drop anyway due to the small contact area.
 

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thanks to rseery

Just want to say thanks for the work on figuring this out. Just got my 2003 Pilot two weeks ago. The rear blower wasn't working and this fixed it. I temporarily jumped the thermal fuse and will order one to replace it. BTW, my filter was perfectly clean, no debris, no dirt, no nuthin. I'll bet the rear blower hadn't worked in this vehicle for a *long* time!
 

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I decided to replace the thermal cutoff with an NTE brand 128C/15A. I read from another thread that the same NTE TCO I bought works. Could I have "popped" the new TCO by holding the soldering iron too long to lay the new solder? Are the TCOs directional (one side was tapered)?

I decided to buy the TCO from DigiKey and will install once it gets in.


UPDATE: Received my TCO from DigiKey, soldered it. Rear vents work perfectly at all 3 speeds. Must have been a bad install from the TCO I bought at an electronics store because it was aluminum bodied and too large to fit in the stock place. I ended up soldering it on top of the board and the legs must have been too short.
 

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You know I have to take pics every time I pull apart the Pilot....

The power transistor for the rear blower in my 2003 stopped working the other day.

Thanks to Slayder, Sunday Rider, N_Jay, and many others who have posted on this problem.

Here is what I did to fix it.

I ordered the parts from Mouser Electronics. I got 2 of the thermal links and some thermal paste:
1 526-NTE303 1 1.770 1.77
NTE Chemicals
1g HEATSINK COMPOUND

2 447-XYP2BN109-RC 2 0.400 0.80
Xicon Thermal Cutoff
TCO 114C 2A/250VAC

The total was $9.02 shipped.



1. Pull off the panel on the left side of the main console in the drivers footwell.

Here is a picture of the intake screen for the rear blower. You can see how clean I keep it, but the part still failed.
Wow! I see I'm not the only one that's benefited from your efforts. Thanks so much for taking the time to describe the fix very clearly. And thanks to the others here for clarifying and adding good info. I have a 2003 ex with 153,000 miles and I seem to have this problem. I'll take the part out to test today and follow up with what I find.
 

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Can someone possibly help me figure out how to get the resistor out?
The harness is disconnected and the resistor turns back & forth probably a quarter of a turn. But no matter how much I push, pull turn twist, talk nice, talk not so nice to it, it won't come out.
I've used my hands and 2 different types of pliers all to no avail.
My next option is C4
 

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Mine came out pretty easily. I pushed the lock tab and then rotated the transistor slightly clockwise. At that point it was simply a matter of pulling it out. There's a pdf of the service bulletin with pics here.
 

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Can someone possibly help me figure out how to get the resistor out?
The harness is disconnected and the resistor turns back & forth probably a quarter of a turn. But no matter how much I push, pull turn twist, talk nice, talk not so nice to it, it won't come out.
I've used my hands and 2 different types of pliers all to no avail.
My next option is C4
Got it finally. Guess I should have posted this sooner.:8:
 

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Clean that screen

Glad you got it out. If you purchased an OEM replacement, you will note that it is more substantial, especially the cooling fins.

Of course, these things wouldn't be failing in any one at Honda advised owners to clean the air intake screen in the Driver's side foot-well. The screen clogs, the unit overheats, and there goes the rear fan.

Do yourselves a favor and pop off the lower foot-well molding (easy on and off) and clean that screen!
 

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Yup. Works now. Thanks to multiple suggestions here, I did clean that screen off since I was (certainly looks like a "maintenance" item) looking right at it. Not sure if I would have even known it was a fan screen if not for here.
If my rear fan is a really still a very low speed (has been for awhile) do I need to look at something else?
 

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08 EX-SE Rear Power Transistor Fix Success- Then Failed?

Hi, thread seems to not have many updates of late. But, just this thread alone caused me to attempt fix to our 2nd owner 08 Pilot. Rear AC motor never came on since buying.....headed on road trip in less than a week. Following is what I did last night (Monday) after work.

So - lacking patience to wait for a new Panasonic thermal resistor (thermistor?) from Digi-Key; tried the Radio Shack appliance version part....can't remember poster who also used this; but yes it is bulky and heat sink doesn't even come close to flush.

Basically, to try and counter the possibility of a short on the new thermistor-fuse thingy....I put heat shrink around the whole thermistor body and leads just short of the PCB solder points. Well, without reinstalling - it worked right off! Great, so to deal with the non-flush reassembly - sealed the open space with clear silicone RTV. Tack dry - function tested good. Reinstalled to console, again functional test good. Go to sleep for night. Wife drives car in morning, angry phone call what did I do to car!?!?! Description from wife, all blowers on at full speed at startup with controls set to off in front and rear????

Wife came home, pulled 30A fuse from engine fuse box for Rear AC Blower - restart car, back to square one with no AC in rear; but at least not everyone on at full blast!

Notes: TSB is wrong (as others pointed out), the 2M Ohm reading to make the call that the thermistor is open is not correct. Bad reading for me was 115k Ohm and others mentioned same reading on good part?? Well, the RS part had a reading of ~ 10 Ohms.....not sure what that means other than it is like a wire passing full current.....maybe that is why it failed the Transistor elsewhere ....too much current allowed smoked something else in that Transistor PCB??

Next?
1) Junkyard - called, they said they sell the blower motor. I say no thanks not what I need, I need the "power transistor"; where is at? It is in center console by driver's right foot. Ans - you can pull it yourself. ? How much for it? I don't know what it is, we'll talk about it once you pull it. What if it doesn't work? Bring your car with you then. Ans - That is wifey car, can't bring it.....well I am planning to offer $10 and explain not worth much more if used.....if they will go for it cool....if they want even $10.01; I will walk.
2) Honda parts in town - their price was too high $110 ish; pulled e-store price from a Honda dealer in IL who is asking $86 ish online....he paused, coughed, talked with his manager....we will go down to $96 but not lower....
Well $96 is actually cheaper than Autozone, Oreilly, or Napa....so that will be plan B...

Big thanks for the write-ups on self repair on the bad thermistor part.....I am mech eng and do well with wrenches, strain gages, temperature, torque, charpy v-notch, steam tables, etc. etc. not into electrons and PCB and solder...but I am into whatever gets broken things fixed!

Back to plan 1) above - if I get salvage part and is bad- will try 94eg! bridge-jumper trick.....we are on the road too soon to dinker around otherwise.
 

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08 EX-SE Rear AC Blower Transistor Fixed!

Here is my update from today.

Called local salvage yard that would be along route home from work. The yard tech looked up the rear AC blower motor....I said whoa :confused:...not the motor the transistor....to which he replied, I know you want the transistor - we don't sell those. He explained they sell parts and don't allow customers to pull their own. Confusion begins in my brain...where is this going? Then he says sure, we have 2 pilots and 2 MDX that should have your part...and I will allow you to pull it (he did say...whatever). How much I ask? He says we will figure that out when he sees what I pulled. :29:

Go to yard, get map of cars, yellow safety vest, bon voyage (actually one of smallest yards I have been to..) Find Pilot #1 - it is '03 check the transistor looks real clean. Go to MDX #1 it is an '01, pull it - different heat sink than pilot, but it looks dirty - yikes. Other Pilot and MDX on other side of yard....I think the Pilot part is a newer replacement sans original...back to the office. How much? He says 'Merry Xmas, hope it works!' Wow, like totally awesome and thanks - even if not I know a crafty way to get it working again...(but I am 0 for 1 in that category..so far).

Back to wifey car. Reinstall 30A fuse in engine box, pull my work of art transistor (more like Frankensistor!), plug in new one. Fire up car with AC system off. No fans at max speed, check. Turn on fwd AC, check. Hit button for RR AC Manual control, check. Toggle to cool speeds and warm speeds and back to off, check. Turn off engine, reinsert transistor to console - start up and same sequence, check, check, check, engine off. Reinstall trim, do over, check check check! Working great. :D

Autopsy on my Frankensistor.....beep, beep, beeeeeeeep. Ohmeter on leads 3 and 4 from TSB - 1.3k Ohm?,,,but why is it shunted and fans run max?? Remove RTV silicone, pull brown plastic cover, discard heat sink to reveal the thermistor thingy...I do remember one important lesson from EE for non majors..when things on PCBs short ....look for brown spots,,,brown brown...ahhhh - one very small spot of the lead wire is exposed and heat shrink pulled back...bam! So, Ohmeter sends very small current to test resistance drop...not same as a Megger which pumps current at rating and truly tests resistance on a circuit...so, that should help explain to anyone why Honda TSB is shaky on the diagnostic! Frankensistor autopsy is completed by separation of recycleable parts from throw away parts.....

Lesson learned? I am 1 for 2 on first adventure in DIY small electronic repair, not bad! Should have ordered from DigiKey right part and chilled out,,,,but car trip in a few days for couple of weeks and tons of hours on road..

Looking forward to more DIY adventure on the Pilot....been 3 years in already on a Subaru H6 Outback....blogging up that DIY adventure on Subaruoutback.org (same user id)....btw, same look and feel of this website...exactly the same! What, wait, who is running these car blog websites??? Now I am scared, maybe this is like a MIB or NSA deal rigged to catch us DIY auto fixer peeps subverting the overpriced pay for auto repair network.....umm, too much imagination for that....but really why do these look exactly the same? Kinda creepy actually.....:27:
 

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I have a 2003 pilot and the rear transistor was shot. Read the link and decided to try to fix it as the dealer wants 95.00 dollars for the part. ordered the thermo link from Mouser and got them today. p/n 667-eyp-2bn110. cost .97cents for 2. shipping 6.75. Took me 5 min. to remove the thermo switch and 10 min. to remove old cut off and install new one. Works like a charm! Worth the 8 bucks I spent. I sleep better knowing I did not give all my money to the dealer. Wish someone had told me sooner to vacuum the air intake to keep the thermo breaker from over heating! Thanks again the pictures were helpful.
 

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Great write up and thanks! I ordered my parts and repaired my 2003 Pilot rear transistor board just as you described and it works perfectly now!!

Many thanks for saving me $80+

Chris
 

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Appreciate all the comments and especially the photos. My 2004 Pilot had both the front and rear resistors go out. I ordered two sets of fuses: two front and two back (different temps), took out the resistors, desoldered, installed the new fuses with heat sink, re-soldered, installed and now everything works as it should. Who knew .... simple $1.50 parts and an afternoon could save so much money and be gratifying at the same time. Thanks again!
 

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Just wanted to post and say that I was able to fix the rear blower on my new-to-me 2003 Pilot this morning.

FYI...if you do this repair, don't drink a bunch of coffee beforehand, lol.

Thanks for the great instructions!!
 

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I just followed the other posts about changing the thermal cutoff on my rear heat/ac. It started working great and everything, but now the bottom blower will not turn off no matter if the rear is turned off, or if the front is turned off. It blows out warm air the whole time too. Any suggestions why this is happening now?
 

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Ok, I am posting this as a huge THANKS to the OP, RSerry, for putting together such a comprehensive and well documented summary of how to approach this problem. I am the original owner of a 2002 MDX and my kids started complaining about the rear a/c not working last summer. I thought they were doing something wrong until I checked it myself and sure enough, no air!

After researching on the MDX forums and searching a bit, this particular thread gave me the confidence to take a shot at this realizing the worst case scenario was spending under $10 to find out I didn't know what I was doing and ended up ordering the Blower Motor Resistor - Rear for about $130 and just being done with it. Still reasonable vs. going to the dealer like a bumbling idiot but I was intrigued by the fact a $.75 part could be the answer to my problem.

I ordered the following part (3, why not, they are $.75) from Mouser (667-EYP-2BN109 - Panasonic Thermal Cutoff) and some thermal paste. Less than $10 shipped. I already owned a soldering gun but if you need one they are very inexpensive and easy to find. For example, Micro Center has a bunch in their hobby area. My 2 cents, don't waste the few bucks on a cheapo Solder Sucker. The opening at tip of the one I bought was too large and it was totally worthless. None of the inexpensive ones looked particularly good but if you want to get one, look for one with a very small opening at the tip to "suck" the solder once it has been heated. I ended up heating and shaking. For a one time use, I would recommend this approach. As you heat the connection, you will see the wire break loose as the solder heats up. At this point, set the solder gun down and give the part a quick shake and the solder will come off. I had a tweezers handy to pull at the wires once the solder had been heated which was also helpful. Repeat until you have all the solder heated and removed to the point you can see the little nooks on the lugs where the wire kinda hooks underneath them before being soldered again.

Start to finish, I was done in less than 1 1/2 hrs. This is a very doable fix for someone with average DIY skills and ambition. If you are good, you will be done in less than an hour. The trickiest part for me was getting the plug off the resistor that you need to remove. I was worried I was going to break the clip off the plug. The OP says "Depress the latch to get the plug off" in post #3. The latch he references is on the underside of the plug on the wire harness where it connects to the Blower Motor Resistor. If you look at the picture with the plug removed you will see where it latches to the Blower Motor Resistor and that should tip you off on where to depress HARD and pull the plug out straight towards you. Removing the resistor is pretty simple from here.

In the end, this worked exactly as outlined and my rear blower is working again. Best part was when my 9 year old son asked me if I was fixing the rear a/c manual right as I was finishing up. He saw me working on the resistor and recognized what I was doing from a video I had watched previously. He went out to the MDX with me and did the honors from the back seat. Sweet victory! We did a little high five and that was all the reward I needed.
 

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Got the TCO from Mouser today. I replaced it and the job took less than an hour, start to finish. Works great now. I did find the blower screen completely plugged, I guess it is on the list for spring maintenance for now on. Thanks for the excellent instructions and write up.
 

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I just did the repair. It went very well even taking my horrible soldering skills into account.
Rear blower works again.
It was just too easy.
Now I have the dam rear blower blowing full blast all the time.....:bangh:

Guess the unit is toast and I'm stuck ordering a new one.

Unless anyone here has some ideas??
 
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