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This is not considered a normal service item. That being said, it is easily serviced and is located under the left lower trim of the console on the driver side. To remove the trim, start near the firewall and pull it gently until it releases, then you can work your way back until the trim is removed, exposing the filter and the transistor assembly.



I've half cleaned this one off at 8x,xxx miles.
 

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Well, I took apart the lower console trim by the driver's side footwell, and found no such filter on my 2010 Pilot. Maybe the design changed in '09 and beyond?
 

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Another big thanks for the write-up. Just finished replacing the thermal cutoff for the third time now (first replacement lasted years, second only a few months). Fortunately I ordered extra parts the first time around. :29:
 

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Anyway, I'd like to order the parts listed in this thread before I pull the module....but I don't see these parts listed at Mouser!

2 447-XYP2BN109-RC 2 0.400 0.80 (thermal cutoff switch)
Xicon Thermal Cutoff
TCO 114C 2A/250VAC

Thanks,

Steve
I have had the same issue with the rear heater since I bought my Pilot. Still not fixed...but I'm seriously considering trying this. I was able to find these thermal cutoffs on two different websites:

Centerpointe Electronics
Xicon Thermal Cutoffs

ELCODIS
Xicon thermal cutoff - electronic parts | Electronic Components Elcodis.com

Hope this helps!
 

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Even if I don't end up trying this repair- awesome job by RSeery. Very thorough and clear instructions, and helpful pictures every step of the way!
 

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Still have 2 pilots running around with my jumper-wire fix. 2-3 years now. Both these women leave their HVAC systems on Auto so the fans blow continuously. No trouble whatsoever with 110* vegas summers.
 

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thanks for the info. did the fix and it worked. first time i was cheap and didnt put thermal grease on. fan ran cintinually.
i used NTE8115 (2a/250VAC 117 DEGREE C) $1.49 EA
ELLIOTELECTRONUICSUPPLY.COM
'
first car that is holding up from the wife beating the crap out of.
2003 honda pilot
2006 dodge 2500 mega cab 4x4
2001 bmw z3 coupe
 

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I just did mine. worked for about 20 minutes then reverted to full on. beats no blower i guess. i am going to redo everything and see what happens. i had heat sink paste, will go buy heat sink paste.

finding the parts is no problem. ye ole' electronics shop had everything.
 

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I am having the same problem. Fan is stuck on high. Everything is insulated and used the paste. I'm gonna have to just bite the bullet and buy a new transistor I guess.
 

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Hey guys, I'm new to this forum, but appreciate all of your input and wisdom on this matter, have a 04 Pilot with a rear fan issue. I have tried a lot of troubleshooting, jumper wire, etc, even a new transistor, and when the car is not started (ignition on) the rear fan runs great (on the top 3 highest fan speeds only), but when car is running the fan will run at a very slow speed only at the highest fan speed. Looking for any help on this... not sure what to try next?? Don't really want to resort to a stealership!
 

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I just recently ran into the same symptom (rear AC not working) and found this (and several other threads). I got the transistor out, connected a wire between the thermal fuse terminals, and it is working great. To be safe, I still went ahead and ordered replacement thermal cutoffs. However, I think the design is flawed in the sense that they are putting that screen in there, which eventually blocks pretty much all airflow, which in turn causes the transistor to overheat. Why isn't that filter/screen mentioned anywhere in the user's guide as needing periodical cleanings with the good ol' vacuum? Thanks.
 

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One more thought...
Maintenance Warning/procedure definitely needed...especially considering the location and ease of access...e.g. right at the driver's feet...probably one of the dirtiest places inside the vehicle. Mine was replaced either as a recall or courtesy maintenance item (because they knew they had a problem). I don't remember which. Thanks for the additional info...every little bit helps!
 

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Just in case this helps someone else...

I just fixed the non-functional rear blower issue I've had for a few weeks on my 04 Pilot EX with 96k miles, but the TSB didn't apply because the resistance between terminals 1 & 2 was within spec (1.4 - 1.5 kΩ) at 1.49 kΩ.

I ran the self-diagnosis function for the Rear Heater-A/C Control System and got DTC code #1, which signifies a problem in the rear blower motor circuit. I had just replaced the rear blower motor last year due to bearing noise, and it worked fine when I unplugged the wiring harness and put 12v across it directly (FYI, the intake screen for the blower motor was still clean after I cleaned it a year ago).

The next thing I did was to test the rear transistor as per the service manual by unplugging the wiring harness and using jumper wires to connect terminals 1,2, & 3 on the rear transistor to the wiring harness. At this point, if you connect 12v to terminal #4 on the rear transistor, the rear blower motor should run when the ignition switch is ON (II). If it does not run (as mine didn't), then the rear transistor is bad and needs to be replaced.

I bought a replacement part on ebay (part# 79330-S3V-A51) for $92.90 shipped, plugged it in, and my rear blower started working immediately. I re-ran the self-diagnosis function for the Rear Heater-A/C Control System, and that was clean too. :29:
 
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