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Our 2006 Pilot recently lost rear AC too. I pulled the transistor assembly out and tested it. The TCO was blown. A new assembly fixed it good as new... and of course, the obligatory vacuuming of the fan screen.

My assembly is also the newer version. I am considering repairing my old unit so that I have a spare in stock. Has anyone repaired the newer version yet? I haven't taken it apart yet, other than to remove the brown cover.

Also, I tried to find a 2003-2008 Pilot in a junkyard and snag the transistor assembly, but in my area, the junkyards are charging a $50 minimum and wanted $65 for the part. My dealer pricematched my online prices and I got a new part for under $90 with tax.
 

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Also, I tried to find a 2003-2008 Pilot in a junkyard and snag the transistor assembly, but in my area, the junkyards are charging a $50 minimum and wanted $65 for the part.
That's good to know. I've been trying to track down a Pilot at a junkyard or pull-a-part place here, but I haven't had any luck. Guess I would do better to stop trying and to just order the part. Looks like the circuit board on mine is bad and not just the fuse.
 

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Our 2006 Pilot recently lost rear AC too. I pulled the transistor assembly out and tested it. The TCO was blown. A new assembly fixed it good as new... and of course, the obligatory vacuuming of the fan screen.

My assembly is also the newer version. I am considering repairing my old unit so that I have a spare in stock. Has anyone repaired the newer version yet? I haven't taken it apart yet, other than to remove the brown cover.

Also, I tried to find a 2003-2008 Pilot in a junkyard and snag the transistor assembly, but in my area, the junkyards are charging a $50 minimum and wanted $65 for the part. My dealer pricematched my online prices and I got a new part for under $90 with tax.
Would you sell me your old non functional unit?
 

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Yes, if I decide to not repair it.

Have you repaired the newer version?
 

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Yes, if I decide to not repair it.

Have you repaired the newer version?
OK let me know.
I have only repaired the 2003 version and do recommend (but no liability assumed by me:29:) upping the thermal cut off limit as I have noticed on very hot days when you need it the most it cuts off the back air = hot child = complaining spouse = nobody needs this. I can't get sympathy or peace after telling them the fact that i grew up with crank windows and no A/C in Florida in the seventies.

Per previous posts here others have upped it or even just bypassed it altogether with no issues.
 

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Ok. I'll keep it in mind. I'm in no hurry to do anything.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of by-passing the safety device, even if it's set a bit low. I don't know what the part on the newer design is spec'd at. I seem to recall someone saying the new spec is 133* but don't quote me on that.
 

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Hi,
I realize that I am new here, but have been a reader of this forum for several years. It has helped me out many times. Most recently with the TCO fix. I performed this fix about 2 years ago on my brother's MDX. At the time I purchased 5 TCOs (luckily I saved the remaining 4 as I just had to replace one on my wife's Pilot).
I now have 3 left and would like to keep one as a spare, but I am willing to provide the remaining two to anyone who needs a TCO (free of charge). I already put the shrink tubing on the ends. Just PM me with your address (as long as it is in the US) and I will mail it out to you. This fix has saved me over $200 between the two cars, so I would like to give something back. (if only a $2 part :)).

Tom
 

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Nice,Very Nice :29:
 

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Excellent thread and discussion. Thanks a lot. The rear blower on our 2003 Pilot stopped working last year and we didn't really care in the New England weather. But this year has been hot and the kids were complaining so I searched today during lunch time. Glad that I did. Will try to pull out the transistor assembly tonight and see what is the resistance and if I have a blow out thermal cutoff.

Question - if it is indeed the thermal link and I decide to solder a new one myself, do I need the thermal paste? That was discussed by RSeery but no one else seems to talk about it afterwards. Are you folks buying/applying some thermal paste to the thermal cutoff? If yes, where are you buying it? From digikey or radioshack or using some thermal paste leftover after changing the CPU in your desktop computer?

Also, I have cleaned the blower screen so that is probably dirty. Will do that as well. But separately - do you ever clean the cabin filter? Where is that located?

Thanks a bunch!
 

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Clean the rear blower screen. No filter for those rear vents other than the screen.

Replace the front blower "cabin filter". It's a large paper cartridge behind the glove box. I believe FRAM makes a carbon activated one that helps reduce smells in the car ($15). You need to remove the glove box and knee bolster behind it to replace the cabin filter.

Cabin air filter replacement- Honda Pilot - YouTube
 

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NIce video of the cabin filter change. Hint: you don't need to remove the side trim (thresh hold and the other panel).

Also, I've heard that the filter is able to be compressed diagonally (then springs back into shape) so that removal of the bar is not necessary. I haven't tried the replacement that way... yet. ;)
 

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As it turns out, I am not in luck. Resistance between pins 3/4 on the rear a/c transistor assembly is only 1500 Ohms and the 30A fuse isn't blown either. So I guess I am out of luck. I will need to bring the Pilot to the dealer and get the issue looked at. Perhaps the motor is burnt out? Any further tips/ideas before I shell out hard-earned cash at a dealer.

Thanks again!
 

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frozen blower motor

agaurav: All I can tell you is my experience. After replacing the transistor, my motor wouldn't work. I removed it (passenger side panel) easily and there was carbon black all over. I assume that the brushes were burning up for lack or cooling air secondary to the clogged screen. I used compressed air and tuner cleaner to clean all the debris out, replaced it, and it has worked ever since. Good luck!
 

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I'm a new pilot owner, bought a 06 about 10 days ago. Thanks to this thread I became aware of the clogged screen issue for the rear blower. What a difference a little vacuuming makes!! Is cleaning this mentioned anywhere in the manual?

Now if someone would come up with a cheap fix for the front courtesy lights not coming on when the door is opened. I know the base is only $50 but that just sticks in my craw for some reason <G>
 

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Well, four years after the first fix for the rear HVAC controls / fan on our 2003 Pilot, it stopped working again. Looked up this trusty old thread, found the extra thermal cutoffs I ordered from Mouser (since $.07 seemed too cheap the first time around, I ordered extras), installed and presto... rear fan works great!


A little background for anybody that cares... the rear blower fan started making a "bomb" air siren/horn noise about once a day... which required shutting it off and back on to stop. I thought I had purchased a replacement blower from eBay, when sadly, I realized it was for the one under the dash and NOT the center console. So I oiled the old one up really well, re-installed and no more air-siren.

Anyhow, last week... the rear HVAC controls were dead again. I thought it was an odd coincidence seeing as though I had recently worked on the rear console blower motor, so I pulled the fan/motor and tested it on my bench... worked great! Plugged it back into the harness in the car, turned on the climate control and the fan would kick on for a 10th of second and then nothing.

So, I referred to this thread, pulled the transistor, soldered a new thermal cutoff, reinstalled and it now works great. I also pulled the console blower screen and cleaned off the dust build-up (about 50% dirty) and replaced the cabin filter (dirty, but not clogged).

I have a feeling that the dirty cabin filter, dirty blower screen, and un-lubed fan motor probably worked in unison to kill the thermal cutoff... but since I know how to fix it, no big deal!
 

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I'm a new pilot owner, bought a 06 about 10 days ago. Thanks to this thread I became aware of the clogged screen issue for the rear blower. What a difference a little vacuuming makes!! Is cleaning this mentioned anywhere in the manual?

Now if someone would come up with a cheap fix for the front courtesy lights not coming on when the door is opened. I know the base is only $50 but that just sticks in my craw for some reason <G>
There's a good thread on that too. It's an easy fix. (courtesy of the ROC)
 

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Well, four years after the first fix for the rear HVAC controls / fan on our 2003 Pilot, it stopped working again. Looked up this trusty old thread, found the extra thermal cutoffs I ordered from Mouser (since $.07 seemed too cheap the first time around, I ordered extras), installed and presto... rear fan works great!


A little background for anybody that cares... the rear blower fan started making a "bomb" air siren/horn noise about once a day... which required shutting it off and back on to stop. I thought I had purchased a replacement blower from eBay, when sadly, I realized it was for the one under the dash and NOT the center console. So I oiled the old one up really well, re-installed and no more air-siren.

Anyhow, last week... the rear HVAC controls were dead again. I thought it was an odd coincidence seeing as though I had recently worked on the rear console blower motor, so I pulled the fan/motor and tested it on my bench... worked great! Plugged it back into the harness in the car, turned on the climate control and the fan would kick on for a 10th of second and then nothing.

So, I referred to this thread, pulled the transistor, soldered a new thermal cutoff, reinstalled and it now works great. I also pulled the console blower screen and cleaned off the dust build-up (about 50% dirty) and replaced the cabin filter (dirty, but not clogged).

I have a feeling that the dirty cabin filter, dirty blower screen, and un-lubed fan motor probably worked in unison to kill the thermal cutoff... but since I know how to fix it, no big deal!
Yeah, bad bearings will lower the rpm of the motor and increase the load. Increased load on the motor draws more current through the transistor (speed control). More current = more heat, and you blow the thermal cutoff.

The sad part is that $30 RC hobby speed controls have had built-in thermal protection since the 80's. Once they cool down, there is a 99% chance they will fire back up again like normal. Pretty silly they are using a thermal fuse for this $80 speed control.
 

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I've got what might be a new twist on this old problem. My blower stopped working a while ago. Don't know how long ago because I rarely drive very far with the kids in the car, but definitely noticed it on a sumer trip this summer. Doing some research led me to Piloteers and this thread, and I was all set to make the repair. But then my blower came back on. Only for one drive, then it was dead again. Then it came on again a week later, bu tonly for a few minutes.

Can intermittent failure be blamed on a blown transistor? Have I got a different problem?

Also, where do I find this blower motor? I'm thinking it might actually be blocked somehow.
 

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Have you ever cleaned the rear system fan intake filter?
 
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