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Discussion Starter #1
You know I have to take pics every time I pull apart the Pilot....

The power transistor for the rear blower in my 2003 stopped working the other day.

Thanks to Slayder, Sunday Rider, N_Jay, and many others who have posted on this problem.

Here is what I did to fix it.

I ordered the parts from Mouser Electronics. I got 2 of the thermal links and some thermal paste:
1 526-NTE303 1 1.770 1.77
NTE Chemicals
1g HEATSINK COMPOUND

2 447-XYP2BN109-RC 2 0.400 0.80
Xicon Thermal Cutoff
TCO 114C 2A/250VAC

The total was $9.02 shipped.



1. Pull off the panel on the left side of the main console in the drivers footwell.

Here is a picture of the intake screen for the rear blower. You can see how clean I keep it, but the part still failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
2. Here is the part, with the plug attached. This pic is taken just forward of the drivers seat, which is moved all the way back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
3. Here is the part with the wire plug removed... Depress the latch to get the plug off. The plug is pushed up and to the left. Push that plastic bar sticking straight at you to the lower right of the part slightly lower and righter, while turning the part CLOCKWISE about a quarter turn to remove the part. (So the nubs at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock on the part hit the stops on the duct.)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
4. Here is the part itself. The heat sink is up in this pic, with the hood laying down. To remove the hood, examine the end of the part without the plug for a little latch that goes through the heat sink. Press that in and raise the hood, latch end first.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
5. Here's the part with the hood off. The little guy up front with the blue legs is what failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
6. Here's a pic of the solder vacuum I used to desolder the old thermal link.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
7. Desoldered the old link and pivoted it up to show the legs... This is the clearest pic of the module I got.... You can see the lugs to which the link solders below the leg wires... The are in turn soldered to the board, so don't get the whole thing heated up or they'll move... Just heat the ends with the wires. The reason I used the solder vacuum is that you can't move the part after the solder is melted to remove it, since it's clipped in around the back of the board. If you don;t have a solder vacuum, you can accomplish the same thing by melting the solder and shaking the part, but don't do it in the house! Solder will fly off....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
8. The new link.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
9. Here is what you see after you remove the two screws from the connector end, and the screw through the transistor into the heatsink, and remove the heatsink. You can see the link at the end, with the blue insulation sleeves on its legs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
10. The old link above, and the new link below. I couldn't get the blue sleeves off the old link. I hate getting thermal paste on my hands because it is such a pain to get off, so I didn't try too hard. I just used insulation from some thin wire I had laying around and made new insulation sleeves.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
11. I eyeballed the width of the slot for the link and bent the legs to fit it. I pressed the link into the slot here. The bent parts of the legs are a snug fit in the slot.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
12. Back on the other side, I bent the legs down to hook under the lugs and soldered them. That tube in the background marked NTE303 is thermal paste. I put a liberal amount on the link and the transistor heatsink, then replaced all the screws going into the heatsink, making sure I got the transistor one very tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
13. All that's left is to snap the hood back on by placing the pins into the connector end and the latch through the heatsink. Replace the part in the Pilot and test... Replace kickpanel, etc...
 

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Very well done. The only reason no one has replied to this yet is because they're not having this same issue. Nice to know it's here when/if other users need it.

I'm going to take this oppurtunity to welcome back a long lost user, RSeery. I, for one, appreciate that you took the time to once again post your experiences and knowledge with fixing a problem in your Pilot.

I hope to never have this issue, but if I do, I'm thankful for your detailed help.

:7:
 

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Hi, Rserry: What detailed, excellent work! Thanks! The last post on this thread mentions that they will use the information if they ever have this problem. Well, I do! Honda replaced this modual free of charge about 4 months ago, and it already is broken again! They refuse to replace it again. There is obviously a serious design flaw here (they would charge me $300!!). Anyway, I'd like to order the parts listed in this thread before I pull the module....but I don't see these parts listed at Mouser! I tried to search for the exact parts that Rserry mentioned in the very, first part of this thread. No luck! Could the parts be obsolete now since this was several years ago? Thoughts on what to try?

1 526-NTE303 1 1.770 1.77 (which part is this? Not the grease, right?)
NTE Chemicals
1g HEATSINK COMPOUND (no part number? I'm not worried...I have plenty of thermal grease, just curious)

2 447-XYP2BN109-RC 2 0.400 0.80 (thermal cutoff switch)
Xicon Thermal Cutoff
TCO 114C 2A/250VAC

Thanks,

Steve
 

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OMG i just ran into this problem with my 03 EXL, the summer is here, so my 6 months old new born will be uncompotable when the wheather starting to heat up, awsome, but can you show me where to order those parts? thanks
 

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Love to, man! But as my email says: I don't have the information-which is why I asked the original posted of this email to respond.

In addition, the location of the module that is "blown" out does not seem to be where he suggests it is located, which makes me wonder if I mis-read this thread. I have a 2003 Honda Pilot.

I should mention that Honda told me they would fix it....but I'm pretty sure it will break again, so I'd really like the gentleman that originally posted this information back in 2003 to respond if/when he has a chance!

Best,

Steve
 

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I would like to thank all of the piloteers.org members who have posted on this topic. Your input has allowed me to fix my problem with spending +-$100.00 at the dealer for a new part.

It has been a learning experience, but has saved me money.

What I have learned:
Radio Shack and Fry's Electronics carry the 128C thermal cutoff required to make this repair, however, they are larger than the original and are metal bodied causing a short on the heat sink if not buffered with a silicon or mica shield.

The Mouser Electronics parts listed in this thread look to be a better option. The part numbers listed by the OP are avialable on the mouser.com web site, however, the part number for the thermal cut off ends with -RC. The other data is extra. The other part he ordered ending in 303 is the heat sink paste.

Again, thanks to RSeery and all other poster who have covered this topic in depth.
 

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RSerry,

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I ordered the parts from Mouser and soldered the resistor per your instructions.

Thanks again.

Mike:2:
 
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