I’m not a fan of a lot of tech, but no, not seeing a rash of failures with the electronics. To protect your investment, I’d immediately disable the VCM and begin the switch to a better quality transmission fluid like Valvoline Extended Protection ATF or MaxLife. Hopefully the previous owner kept up with replacing the gear oil in the transfer case and VTM-4 fluid in the rear differential.

 

I guess I should have asked if the timing belt job has been done. These vehicles are often traded in at this time for that reason.

 

I guess I should have asked if the timing belt job has been done.

That'll never happen until you manage to suppress the urge to push for Valvoline ATF.

 

No. Concerned about technology on an 11 year old car? How old are you? I'm 75 and drive a 2015 Touring. These are more like a Model A Ford compared to what's on the market currently. The camera, audio, and AWD system all work just fine and for the most part they are all controlled with simple buttons or switches, no friggin' screen to watch instead of looking at the road through the windshield.

What you need to be on top of is the car's maintenance history and staying with it to ensure a lot of easy going miles on the road in the years to come. Take heed with the advice from @Nail Grease . For a used 100K mile Pilot the timing belt service is priority #1. The belt job on the 2014 was scheduled for 105K miles or 7 years. I'll guess that Pilot is still on it's original belt. If so get that taken care of ASAP. Transmission fluid along with the lubricants of the rear differential and transfer case should have been renewed on a regular basis, about every 35K-40K miles. Get those done as necessary and continue that schedule. Read the first post in the VCM Megathread and install a $125 aftermarket device to disable the program. The engine is also due for new spark plugs post 100K miles and I would consider doing a flush of the PS and brake fluids now and every two years.

 

These are one of the "last great" simple cars that Honda was building. No direct injection. No turbochargers. The tech is fairly straightforward and well proven without major common issues. The engine is very reliable IF you disable VCM (about $120), and if you do the timing belt on schedule and with quality parts (NO ebay timing belts). The transmission has one known problem with a sensor that occasionally goes bad, and is about 30 minutes and $100 to replace. The transmission isn't exactly known to be the "smoothest"... but they are bulletproof reliable. About the worst "common" issue (besides VCM) is with brake vibrations in the front about 20k after replacing pads / rotors. Not everyone has it, but my wife did. With that said - it is possible to just ignore it too - it's not THAT bad.

In short if you're looking for a good reliable car to put some serious miles on - these things are perfect for that. There is a reason why they're still selling for more $$ than they should given their age.

 

Lots of good guidance here already. Some of the electronics are less than helpful, like the NAV system. It demands regular updates if you want to have the latest maps in it, and those were about $150 each last I looked. Reality is that your phone has current NAV all the time if you have an unlimited data plan.

The rest of the entertainment stack is fine on the higher trim versions, less so on the LX. There are some upgrade challenges, so shopping for the higher-trim version if decent audio is an important part of your driving experience. I'm very happy with the Touring audio, but be aware that connecting your phone to it doesn't bring phone controls to the Pilot screen. I added a charging cradle next to the NAV screen to take care of several things at once.

There have been random reports of challenges with some electronic features. The rear view/backup camera doesn't like water, so they get replaced. Mostly on cars that sit outside, when dirt and water can find their way into the hatch. The drains get blocked with the dirt and the moisture/humidity levels can affect the camera. Aftermarket replacement cameras are readily available, but you get to disassemble the trim in the hatch to replace them. Ditto with doors and controls in the doors. Keep the little drains cleared and avoid most of those concerns.

Find a car that's got a good solid maintenance history, and you'll be on your way. Stuff does happen, but at least with a car that's been cared for along the way you'll have fewer surprises. It's been over a dozen years since ours arrived, and so far no gripes about it at all.

 

Thanks for all the feedback! My first priority in the purchase of this vehicle was to avoid - DI, CVT and cylinder deactivation - so 2 outta 3. I won't be doing much of my own wrenching, but I have an honest and economical shop for the heavier lifting. Indeed new timing belt, all fluids swapped and install of a VCMuzzler II (or other recommended?). There's just no way to check everything when buying one used.

 

I'd do the VCM Tuner II at this point. S-VCM is great but they don't seem to hold up after a few years. VCMuzzler is just old tech (inline resistor), though it was quite the breakthrough at the time. Both S-VCM and VCM Tuner II are safer and more reliable at disabling the cylinder deactivation system. Safer because they will not allow the car to overheat without giving you an overheating indication on the temp gauge - the inline resistor method however might, and it may not even keep the system disabled in all situations.

 

2nd Gen Pilots are fantastic vehicles, but they can be a little pricey for the "must do" items - timing belt and VCM disabler.

If you really want to get the most of it, the rest of the maintenance items are pretty straightforward for DIYers - transmission fluid drain and fill (I recommend 30k intervals, maybe a 2x or 3x right away to get it caught up), transfer case fluid, rear differential fluid (recommend 30k intervals as well, it's really easy and it's where the magic of this excellent AWD system happens). Brake fluid, coolant should be done at the timing belt, power steering fluid (I suck the reservoir dry with a turkey baster at each oil change and top it off with fresh) should all be done by now.

Common failure points are fairly minimal, the VTEC solenoid can spring a leak (it's right next to the dipstick tube in the head) and if not caught pretty quick it takes the alternator with it. The gen 2.5 ('12-'15) don't have as much of an issue with compliance bushings in the suspension but not unheard of. The rear shocks have a captive fastener (can't remember if it's a nut or bolt) that causes consternation. Some have had intake tubes crack causing some funky behavior but not codes (this is seen throughout the automotive industry with plastic accordion tubing).

My wife loves hers and probably will not be handing it down to our oldest in a few years, she'd rather get her something else rather than give up her car.




Man you two are ruthless with each other.

Always a heckler in the crowd.

Thanks for all the feedback! My first priority in the purchase of this vehicle was to avoid - DI, CVT and cylinder deactivation - so 2 outta 3. I won't be doing much of my own wrenching, but I have an honest and economical shop for the heavier lifting. Indeed new timing belt, all fluids swapped and install of a VCMuzzler II (or other recommended?). There's just no way to check everything when buying one used.

Don’t be afraid to lay under the vehicle and inspect for rust, especially if you live in the rust belt.

 

We just BOUGHT our "new" 2014 Touring a few weeks ago. It wouldn't have sat at the dealership for a full day. I spotted it on their website and showed up before they opened while the vehicle was still being serviced. Under 80,000 miles and extremely clean in and out.

 

We just BOUGHT our "new" 2014 Touring a few weeks ago. It wouldn't gave sat at the dealership for a day. I spotted it on their website and showed up before they opened while the vehicle was still being serviced. Under 80,000 miles and extremely clean in and out. View attachment 184998 View attachment 184999

Looks like someone added hood struts. You?

I'm thinking about doing that on my wife's 23 Passport. The hood is pretty heavy.

 

Hey everyone, while we're on this 2014 heap, does anyone know if this Blue Ground Cable is "extra" or not? The tag under the hood says there's a Remote Start but no Fob included and I can't get it to function with the factory fob, as some aftermarket models do. Thanks for any help!

 

That is definitely not factory, and that's a good sized ground... aftermarket amplifier?

What tag? There was an optional factory remote start (that kind of sucked IMO because when you open the door it shut off and you had to restart the vehicle). If yours has an aftermarket system installed it likely works by pressing the lock button three times like the one I put in my wife's '15 Pilot... we've found it works best pushing lock with a half second break in between, too quick and it doesn't register.

 

So I'm to gather that the VCMTD1000 ($144.95) is the latest, most reliable "plug and play" muzzler that is the right application for the 2014 Pilot ....... There is a "rust proofer" - Krown Rust Control near me ...... but as this car has already seen 9 Michigan winters ..... I wonder if it's worth the expense - about $200.

 

So I'm to gather that the VCMTD1000 ($144.95) is the latest, most reliable "plug and play" muzzler that is the right application for the 2014 Pilot .......

Correct. Out of the set it and forget devices, it is by far the best quality.

 

Here is the Car Fax for the Pilot I'm buying. Red flags? Dropbox

 

I have a 2014 Honda Pilot EX-L 4x4 - and am the original owner. I still have the VCM running and it 🤞 still works well. Our drive trains should be identical - but you have upgraded trim and electronics.

While doing the timing belt and water pump replacement, consider a valve job. I had one done at about 140K miles and my mechanic said that they definitely needed adjustment. I don't know if it was because I needed to justify the cost, but the engine felt both smoother and like it had more pep - after the valve job.

I also replaced all four struts because the rear two were leaking. All were OEM Honda parts.

I've had to resurface my rotors a couple of times - which has been disappointing (I am not hard on my brakes. Nor do I ride my brakes on downhills) but I'm still running the original rotors

I have had to buff and refinish my headlamp lenses several times. I gave up on the kits and use different grits of wet sandpaper (800, 1000, 2000, 3000 grit) with an orbital sander and then coat it with a ceramic coating from Ceracote - and I have found this method lasts the longest. It takes about 30 min per lamp but see below for the before after photos. My most recent refresh is looking good and it's been 2+ years.

I've replaced all the interior lights with LEDs. They are cheap on Amazon and sometimes don't last and I have purchased a second set and simply replace the bulbs that flicker. I've had the interior LEDs for about 5 years and had to replace 2 bulbs that started to flicker after a few years. My daughter has an accord and I've had to replace one on her car.

This is a controversial topic - but I switched my high beam, low beam and reverse lights to LEDs from AUXITO. I was nervous because I didn't want to be the a$$ who blinds oncoming traffic. The bulbs are are 9005 and H11 LED headlight bulbs. I did a lot of research and I chose Auxito because their LED placement exactly matches the filament placement on the original halogens. When I swapped them out, I parked in front of a wall and made sure that the light cone from the halogen and LED were identical. They absolutely were. And to date (nealy 3 years) I have never had anyone flash their lights at me. Auxitos are a flicker free plug and play install with no ballast or any extra wiring needed. And I have driven in Phoenix 120 F heat and in heavy snow. Never had any problems. I still carry the old halogens in my cargo box in the back - just in case the LEDs fail.

I did switch to slightly wider rims but same 18" diameter - and went 20mm wider on my tires - I run 255 / 55R 18 Pirelli Scorpions - and the slightly wider tire really made for a much more stable feel. I don't drive like an ass (at least I hope not) but normal freeway speeds in AZ are 75-80 mph - and since we are almost always dry, I corner at similar speeds. The Pilot is on rails. Rock solid. Highly recommend this tire. It's also handled well in the rain, snow and on the beach in Mexico (I have the 4x4 model). The Scorpions seems to be a nice fit for the vehicle.

I'm still running the factory sound system (not brave enough to try and DIY an aftermarket system) but I repalced the door speakers and dash tweeters with replacments from Kicker - purchased from Crutchfield - becuse they have great tutorials and wiring guides - this stuff was pretty easy to do. The subwoofer is next on the list. On the whole the EX-L factory sound system is "meh". But your Touring edition should have a better sound system.

Cosmetically, I blacked out all of the chrome using the rubberized paint called PlastiDip (grill, badging, driving light trim) - super easy to use and you can peel and/or recoat as desired. I've not peeled off the layer, but I have re-upped the paint to fix stone chips.

 

I have a 2014 Honda Pilot EX-L 4x4 - and am the original owner. I still have the VCM running and it 🤞 still works well.

Eek. After reading the VCM Mega post - I think I'm going to be following those directions ASAP. Thank you to all who have encouraged us to do this.

The VCM mega thread - what is VCM, does my vehicle have...

This thread explains all the key details regarding VCM. Rather than re-explaining everything about VCM to every new forum member, they can simply be directed here. Self-service FTW! While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading...

www.piloteers.org

 

My brother had a 2014 EX-L and his biggest issue was the variable cylinder management. I don't have his engine code. It began pushing oil past the rings and fouling the plugs. It was a $6,000 repair on the top end of that engine. Apparently Honda has finally agreed to some relief for those owners. I have a 2013 EX-L with 170,000 miles and it has been bullet-proof -- EXCEPT for the paint issue they had with the tafetta white. I got not reilef from Honda as mine started peeling after the close of the service bulletin date. It's my second Pilot. The first one also was bullet-proof and I drove it to 150,000+. The only repair I made to either of mine was a oil pressure switch ($300).

 

I have had the 2014 touring Pilot since new. 139k now. I have only had one problem. Parking sensor needed to be replaced. It was still under warranty. Other than a little bit of surface rust, its been a great vehicle!

 

2013 exl w 160k , purchase at 103k, driveline smooth as butter. No electric gremlins at all. Weak headlights, rear cam nothing to write home about though.

As others posted the # 1 ABSOLUTE to do: install a VCM disabler (prevents engine going to 3 cylinders when cruising) and when you do that, also do 3 drains and fill on transmission, use Valvoline Max for atf fluid + 1 tub of Shudder Dr additive.
Then you keep doing a single trans drain and fill with above, about every oil change or 5k.
Unless money is an issue you can’t change any oils too often so to speak.
Thats exactly what also kept my 2011 odyssey engine/ transmission smooth as butter to 300k when I sold (only due to major door electrical issues)

Good luck

 

We have a 2012 Pilot Touring and have never had any issues with the technology. I did disable the VCM when we first bought it.



We did have the engine blown up but that was kind of a freakish thing that would have been avoided if we had paid better attention. One of the spark plugs had worked loose and all the oils drained out while it was sitting for a while. We replaced the engine with a lower mileage one even though it cost about twice what the vehicle is worth. But we really like the Pilot and expect to get another 120K miles or more out of it. At the rate that we drive it, I will be 104 by then.

 

Going to Consumer Reports 2018/2019 Annual Buy Guide and look @ the Frequency of Repair chart for 5+ years to get a sense of how the technolgy holds up.
I have a 2000 TL Navi and only problems was transmission 175k miles (you can't rock Honda transmissions (like Big 3) when stuck in snow and Alpine 6 pack CD stopped working. Forgot heated seats too.