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I found the high pressure power steering line is leaking, called the dealership,the told me $550 , install new. I said I can't pay that even if you're holding a gun to my face. I bought the hose, a o-ring for the low pressure sides and 6 bottles of fluid. Started watching videos (how to) looked challenging, but, do-able. I gave up after 4 hours, will regroup and get ready for the next attempt. My major pitfall is the flange fitting/bolt that is the end of the hose where it connects to the pinion housing. I can just get the wrench on it (and it's a struggle to do that, seems my arm's tot long enough to reach it). I'm afraid to put the muscle to it out of fear of not being able to get the new nut started (remember I can't reach it). Any suggestions? There's another hose and fitting in front of the one I'm after, I'm thinking maybe it's a return line. Anyone removed this one to gain access to the one behind it?
 

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Banned from wife’s 2005 Pilot LX
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I remember some post on this forum where a half moon shaped wrench (I don’t know the correct name) was used to reach around where a regular straight wrench wouldn’t fit. Unless I’m mixing that up with one of the sway bar bushing threads.
 

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Replaced the high pressure line on my 2006 Pllot. Won't ever to that again, was a nightmare for me mainly because of the cramped space you have to try and work in where the lower end nut threads in. For the lower end nut I bought a cheap wrench and used my metal blade to cut the slot in it so it would fit over the tube. Spent forever trying to get the threads on that nut to line up so I could tighten it. Was about to just cut the tube so I could get the nut threaded in properly and figured I'd use a compression fitting to repair the tube but got lucky right before I got that desperate.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Report back on your success with that special tool. I have plenty of obstruction, “S” wrenches and flares but not too many crow/flare.
Will do, I'll be going out shortly to tackle it. I tried getting at it with regular flare nut wrenches, and didn't want to cut up a wrench so it would fit in those tight quarters.
 

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Double-End Metric Flare Nut Wrench Set, 5 Pc.

The correct tool to use is a Flair Nut Wrench. Some call them a Tubing Wrench. The importance of using this tool is that it is 6 point. Using anything else, will strip the nut and then your really in a pickle.
To remove one tube to get at another may be neccessary. Just know that it's one more thing that can leak after the job is done.
I'd not pay $500 either. We're here rooting for you. 👍
 

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Success in a round about way. The tube was rusted into the flare fitting so I just gave it a good yank and broke it off at the fitting. I then used a 6 point 1/2" drive socket & ratchet to remove the fitting. Bit of fun getting the new hose to line up but managed. Did break the bolt on the passengers side hold down clamp, so just used a nut & bolt to secure the clamp to the hoses and used a couple of wire ties to secure the clamp to it's mount.
The special tool does fit without having to remove the other hose so it got used to tighten the hose. My flare nut wrenches were simply to long to work in those tight quarters, and my crow/flares wouldn't get on it without removing the other hose.
 

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Late addition to this thread, but just completed replacing the Power Steering Feed line (high pressure line) on my 2005 Honda Pilot EXL with 238,000 on it. Wanted to share my experience to hopefully help someone else along the way. Sorry not pics.

Helpful tools you may not have in your toolbox:
1. Crow foot wrench for about $6 on amazon (Sunex 971014 3/8" Drive 14 mm Fully Polished Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench - Automotive Car Care Tools And Equipment - Amazon.com)
2. 14mm stubby wrench

Tips that I learned or seemed to help me:
1. Sprayed the Power Steering line connection to the Rack, the night before with some liquid wrench. Not sure if necessary, but removal of the bolt was easier than expected.
2. Used the crow foot wrench, 3/8 drive and a pipe for leverage to break the retaining bolt free. Didnt need much force and probably couldve done it without the extension tube, but it helped.
3. The driver side bolt that secures the line to the subframe is easiest to access from the engine well. From the engine well, follow the power steering line from the rack, you will find the retaining bolt where the power steering return line and feed line meet at the firewall.
4. The passenger side retaining bolt is easier to visualize and access if you remove the passenger tire.
5. Drain as much power steering fluid from the reservoir as possible and pack rags or paper towels below where the line will be removed from the power steering pump.
6. Dont forget to buy a replacement "O" ring to replace the one one the Power Steering sensor.
7. When installing the new line, the 14mm stubby came in handy when tightening down the new line in such a tight space.
8. The most difficult part for me was feeding the new line down and around the rear motor mount. There may be a trick to it, I definitely didnt figure it out but battled with the new line until it finally sat correctly.

Final thought: It is doable, but took me longer than I anticipated.
 
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