With a remanufactured you know that it has been gone through, surfaces related, gaskets and o rings replaced. With a junkyard pump you get what you get. The warranty for such parts if 5 seconds or 5 feet, which ever comes first.
You could say, "It lasted me 240k miles so OEM would be a good idea" OR "It has 240k miles on it, I'll get a most likely perfectly good remanufactured pump with the expectation I may not have the car for another 240k miles". Neither is a bad idea, but I'd go for the cheaper one, but I'm pretty cheap.
On 1st gen Pilots I would buy a junk yard pump. The new Chinese ones are horrible. Some of the rebuilt pumps are new and Chinese.
Be sure to:
1 Use Honda power steering fluid
2 Use genuine Honda o-rings on pump fittings
3 Hand prime pump before installing. When installation is complete and before starting motor, turn steering wheel back and forth to each extreme several times.
I rebuilt the oem power steering pump with oem bearing and seals, it took about an hour. Didn't use a press, just a few different size basic sockets and a rubber mallot. The youtube video above, the guy took it apart way too far, you don't need to take all of the fins and blades out, that section can be kept together when dismantling the pump by taking out the 4 screws on the side, holding that section in your hand, and allowing it to fall out into your hand, then set that section aside.
For $50 I have a brand new oem pump with oem parts, and not a parts store version that's going to fail because it has a cheap bearing and seals in it.
Here are the parts that I used from honda automotive parts.com
Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
91048-P2A-003 Bearing, Radial Ball (17X40X12) $12.66 1 $12.66
91249-PNC-003 Seal, Power Steering Pump $4.99 1 $4.99
91345-RDA-A01 O-Ring (13.0X1.9) $0.66 1 $0.66
91347-PAA-A01 O-Ring (16.7X1.8) $0.76 1 $0.76
91347-P2A-003 O-Ring (15.2X2.4) $0.50 1 $0.50
91348-P2A-003 O-Ring (51.0X2.4) $1.04 1 $1.04
91349-R70-P01 Seal $27.63 1 $27.63
08206-9002 Fluid, P.S $3.08 1 $3.08
My power steering pump ended up leaking out the pulley side and I had to replace the pump after all. I took it on and off 3 times. When removing the seal behind the bearing, use a seal puller that has the sharp point covered in something to protect it. You can very easily reach too deep and scratch the aluminum case. Mine got nicked but I’m not totally sure if that made my pump leak or not. It wasn’t leaking on this side before. If I had to do it again, if it was leaking on this side I may just replace the whole pump. If it’s leaking on the other side I would replace just the leaking gaskets. Rebuilding it isn’t hard but it seems the wear on the shaft that the bearing attaches to may play a role in the leaks with the new shaft seal.
rebuilt the power steering pump in my tl type s (same pump as pilot part number wise) and didn’t mess with the bearing and bearing seal and all went perfect with no leaks. The other one may have leaked because our dealer gave us a really odd seal that didn’t match the oem one (swapped for aftermarket and returned?). When comparing the type s seals, the type s seal looked totally different in a few spots then the pilot one I got but ordered from the same place with same part number. I’ll never know if that’s why the other one leaked since I bought an aftermarket pump. If you don’t hear bearing noise before your rebuild I maybe wouldn’t dig that deep into it. The bearing seal is pressed tightly in and I’m not sure if disrupting it makes it hard to get back in or if I just got a weird seal.
After 240k miles the pilot bearing seal didn’t actually feel that hard either in my pilot. I would maybe attempt to replace the bearing and not that seal if I had to rebuild a 200k+ mile pump.