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Any chance you have taken a look at the wiring? I'd love to know where the made the connections and how they routed the wires.

--Harry

$113 total - Should have been about $150, but they got the wrong USB plugs in. They are pretty basic. I would have had to wait a couple of weeks to get ones I originally requested, but wanted them before we headed out of town.

(And now that the wiring is there, I can always change them out.)
 

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I ordered one of these and will be installing it soon for the second row.




Going to run power off of the fusebox somehow, but haven't crossed that bridge yet.
 

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Okay, I did this job today. Installed 2 usb ports to the center console in our EX-L. I will post a good write-up with pictures soon. I am also running 2 more in the 3rd row, but not sure where to put them yet.

I will say this, forget tapping off the center console USB, all 3 USB's in the EX-L W/O RES come from one unit in the center console with a special plug a small gauge wire. (See attached image, it's behind the panel next to passengers side feet in the center console) For an easy run, you could tap the 12vdc in the center console, but I used an add-a-circuit, which you can use any 12vdc switched fuse.

The space behind the cubby in the center console is minimal, like less than 1", & if you aren't careful you have even less.

Any idea of a preferred location for 3rd row USB?
 

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The back of the middle console just pops right off. Run your fingers under the trim at the carpet and give it a little tug. Despite the look of these being off alignment, I swear they aren't...

Some have asked if there are wires for the RES behind this panel in models w/o RES. I will say there are 2 bunches of wires that are bare and bundled together right behind this panel right at the carpet level. They go under the carpet so I did not trace them out, but they did NOT have any power on them, so I just left them alone.

To remove the console is a bit more involved. You have to pop off the trim at the feet of the drivers and passenger sides next. (You'll notice there are 2 "hooks" at the front so when you go to put it all back, slide that into place first). After removing the 2 trim pieces, remove the 10 mm screws (one each side) that hold the large side pieces of the console down. I also show the ground location I tapped into.

Next, locate and remove the 2 screws under the rubber mat in front of the shifter.


Now you can grab the large bezel around the shifter and remove it by pulling up. There are 2 more screws (one each side) under this trim piece to loosen the large side pieces of the console. You will need to remove the trim directly above the console, this just pops off.

Next the 2 large pieces on the sides of the center console slide out by pulling straight up. They have several hooks so pay attention when you are putting it back together.

Finally remove the 2 10 mm screws under the rubber mat of the center console. You can gain access to the 12 vdc outlet here if that's what you're after. (Note when you put this back together leave the bolts loose until you get the console all snapped back together, otherwise you may not have tight lines onece it all goes back together)

I chose to run a new 12 vdc wire from the fuse box with an add-a-circuit. If you do this it should be the ATM-LP type. I measured 12vdc on the location pictured with ignition on and nothing when off. This location (2nd from bottom right) had no fuse in it, but you can use any location as the add-a-circuit allows you to do this. This also covered over a 20 amp fuse. I chose this over tapping into the 12vdc outlet because I was adding 4 USB charging ports at 2.1amps @5 VDC.






I used the Axxess AX-USBCHARGE 2.1 for my install for a couple of reasons. First they are very basic, no LEDs, they had long leads, and they fit in a shallow location compared to others. See the attached thumbnails showing the depth allowed by installing in this little cubby in the center console. You have probably less than 1" behind it. I actually still cut the back AX-USBCHARGE to allow the cord to bend 90 deg and glued it into place. To test fit I cut a 1" piece of wood and hot glued it into place on the back then reinstalled the trim before making any cuts. Also note the duct directly behind the cubby has a couple of indentations to allow for a little extra depth for installation, so that's why I have the ports mounted where they are, and not at the bottom of the cubby. I assume these indentations were for the components on models w/ RES, where the HDMI and USB ports would have gone. I considered purchasing the plate that the RES uses, but it was rather expensive (Part number 39590-TG7-A11 and it's about $100-$150) and I'm not sure what type of wiring would have to be done. It would then also have an unused HDMI port as well as RCA and headphone plugs.

To get back to the 3rd row, I routed the wire to under the carpet and under the drivers seat hugging the duct that's in the floor. (It's weird, but the duct gets stepped on apparently) Useful to remove the back 2 bolts on the drivers seat so you can get under it easier. The removed the plastic trim under the door and routed the wire there. There's a few pieces including 1 under the picture below.

From here I popped off most of the rear trim. There is a screw under the little handle and a large screw under the tie down that just above the back seat (3rd row) seat cushion. With those removed I was able to get behind it just enough to install the outlet. I used one of the available threaded studs to ground to on the drivers side and grounded to the screw mounted to the "remote tuner" on the passenger side. I removed the 2 screws (bolts) under the seat and folded the rear cushion up to run the power under the seat to the other side.

I opted to install the 3rd row USB between the 2 cup holders on each side. Here's my final install of the 3rd row.
 

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I finally got around to adding a dual USB port and cigarette lighter port. All I had to pull off was the back panel in the second row. The ports I bought were a little deeper than space would allow with the plastic cup piece, so I bought a sheet of ABS plastic and made a new cover. Not a perfect fit but if I wanted to break out the heat gun, I think I could have made it a little nicer. Project for another day. Power is coming from an add a fuse like GoWolfpack used. It cost around $50 total, but I had to buy wire, connectors and a paddle bit for the drill.
 

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Noticed the other day that the empty fuse location that I selected loses power when the window lock switch is in the lock position. Looks like I'll find another location to tap into. Luckily the add a circuit allows me the ability to yap into any fused location.
 

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Noticed the other day that the empty fuse location that I selected loses power when the window lock switch is in the lock position. Looks like I'll find another location to tap into. Luckily the add a circuit allows me the ability to yap into any fused location.
Consider it the off switch and extra feature
 

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$113 total - Should have been about $150, but they got the wrong USB plugs in. They are pretty basic. I would have had to wait a couple of weeks to get ones I originally requested, but wanted them before we headed out of town.

(And now that the wiring is there, I can always change them out.)

@jmbtex2008, where did you find the face plate that the USBs are mounted to? I went to local Best Buy and their auto installation dept told me they can do the install for $100/hr but I will need to provide parts. I am not sure how to find the cover/face plate????
 

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I am a new 2017 EX-L (w/o RES) owner, and thinking of doing this. Purchased a USB connector, but am not 100% sure of the wiring. Is there no available wiring in the center console? Has anyone tried tapping into the 12v receptacle or USB on the other end of the center console?
 

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I am a new 2017 EX-L (w/o RES) owner, and thinking of doing this. Purchased a USB connector, but am not 100% sure of the wiring. Is there no available wiring in the center console? Has anyone tried tapping into the 12v receptacle or USB on the other end of the center console?
I would love to know that too
 

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I can see the needs in 1 or 2 years when my kids need a phone. Can't believe Honda cheaps out like this. In another thought the central 12V outlet and USB inside the storage seem totally useless to me.
 

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I put one of these in my 05 pilot where the cig. lighter was in the dash panel. Mine also has a digital voltage gauge in the center. I'm sure you can mount this anywhere in your car. I had to ream out the original slightly as it is fatter than the lighter socket hole.
 

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Thanks to everyone for the incentive, I took on adding 4 usb ports to the back of the console this week.

I found what I think is a great option and fairly simple given the lack of space behind the pocket.

Supplies list:
2 - Accele Glowing Dual USB Powered Ports - Blue (P/N: USBS-BLU)
1 - Bussman Low Profile Fuse tap (P/N: HHLP)
1 - Low profile fuse 7.5 amp (P/N: ATM-LP)
10 feet - 16 awg red wire
10 feet - 16 awg black wire
8 - tie wraps
as needed - soldier/shrink tubing

The usb ports are pricey ($24) but I think they look great.

usbs-blu_1.jpg
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They come with a 5 foot cable with service connectors and wire taps. I separated the cables at the service connector and used that side of the connector to create a dual supply cable using 16 awg wire (ignore the fuse tap in the picture... I got the wrong one and had to get a low profile one instead).

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I installed the ports in the sides of the lower pocket. They are a little to long to install facing the rear, since they are a little over 1.25" from the face plate back.
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I was able to do the install with only removing the rear panel and the driver side lower foot well panel on the center console. I fished the cable I created forward along the bottom edge of the console along the inside of the center console panel by the driver seat. This allowed me to ground the black wire at the same place as GoWolfPack. I then fished the red wire up over to the driver's side fuse panel and connected it using the low profile fuse tap. I tapped off of Fuse #5 which is the Front Accessory socket (the one near the carplay/android auto usb port).

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Finished product:

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UPDATE! Bad news... I realized that even though I added the fuse tap to the Front accessory socket fuse (C5), the power is ALWAYS on at the fuse.

I spent $10 and accessed the wiring information on techinfo.honda.com for the Pilot. Honda has two low power control circuits that are powered when you are in accessory mode or when you have the ignition on. All of the real power circuits have their own fuses and power relays.

It appears that the only safe way to tap power from the fuse box is to use a relay. The only fuses that are turned on/off are low power signal circuits and not real power circuits.... I wouldn't want to put the control/signal fuses at risk by adding a circuit on top of them given how many other circuits rely on them.

Example:

Fuse C40 is the fuse for the accessory control circuit (only 7.5 amps). It is powered when you turn on accessory mode using the start switch. When it is energized, it turns on a bunch of other power circuits by turning on their associated power relays. Those "power" circuits are not powered by the line fuse C40 protects, they have their own power/fuses.

For example all three of the FUSES for the accessory power sockets have power on them all the time, but there are power relays that connect/disconnect power to the accessory sockets. These relays are turned on/off when the power through fuse C40 is turned on/off.


I have decided to tap into the power going to 12v socket inside the console. I will almost never use that socket, or if I do imagine needing to charge 4 usb devices at the same time. It's either that or buy a relay kit (e.g. Grote 84-1040 relay kit).
 

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All done... I took out the center console and wired the usb ports to the center console accessory socket.Taking out the console was MUCH easier than I thought.

I disconnected the plastic power connector from the accessory socket in the console and created a short jumper harness that allowed me to re-connect the socket and also to connect the harness leading to the usb ports. This way I can put it back to factory very easily if I ever wanted.

Routing the harness from the front of the console box to the back was very easy with the console out. There is at least an inch around the box on either side.

Put it all back and now all 4 of the new usb ports come on when you switch to accessory mode just like all three of the accessory sockets.
 
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