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Possible to add USB port to back of console on EXL?

57K views 47 replies 26 participants last post by  ac13 
#1 ·
(I had an account on the site but can't seem to log in - darn it! This site helped greatly through the years with my 2007 Pilot.):frown:


Well, I traded in my 2007 Pilot LX yesterday for the 2016 EXL w/o RES. I was happy as can be as I had researched this for months and now have leather and remote start. My 12 year old boys immediately got in the back and were shocked to find no power outlets! EEK! It really never even crossed my mind that there wouldn't be power outlets of some kind for the second row at this trim level. (My 2007 had a power outlet at the 2nd and third row and we used a splitter with 2 USB ports and that worked great for years!)


Is there anyway to add USB ports to the bottom rear of the console? (I really don't want long wires threaded around the console/seats.)
Thank you so much.
 
#7 ·
Okay. I've done some reading and there is a good description with pictures about getting into the center console (post about moving the HDMI outlet on a Pilot with RES to add Roku within the console).

Next, there is a post about using an "add-a-circuit" (for an EXAMPLE see Amazon "Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder") to attach a radar detector.

Now if I can figure out which fuse to use and how to run the wiring, I might be in business.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I think the most challenging part will be finding an acceptable looking USB type A port that can be conveniently mounted to the console without hacking it to pieces. You want something with a a square or rectangular layout and then some kind of fascia that would clip into place from the outside to provide a finished look and hold the board in place.

There are several boards available on ebay and other places where you can run 12V power to a board that already has a transformer and USB type A port on it, but none of those can be easily mounted or look pleasing enough to the eye that I would want to use one.

Edit: something like this would probably work perfectly. You can use a drill bit to drill a perfectly round hole and then this has a screw on ring to secure it from the backside.
 
#11 ·
Doubt it would be that hard. Start at the fuse box and just tuck the wires into the center tunnel and then jump into the center console once you get there. Worst case you game to remove a couple of trim pieces, but I bet you can get it done without.
 
#13 ·
Same thing I posted. I would want to see the wiring diagram before I tapped into that wire. Not sure what else is on that circuit and adding another 3 amps to the end of it is probably ok, but I would want to make sure first. You'll also have to find a new ground unless you tap into both.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Over Christmas, I stopped by a couple local car alarm and stereo places. The first one I went to, a young adult "helped" me and looked at me like I was crazy when I told him what I was wanting. On my way out of the store, I overheard the older gentleman that had been on the phone tell the kid, "that's an easy install".


So, I went to another place and they were able to get to it the next week. We couldn't locate rectangular covered USB outlets (didn't check Honda), but found some round ones (which I had already seen online). When they came in, they weren't covered - just single 2 amp USB outlets. I agreed to have them installed anyway at $6 each plus 1 hour labor ($90 + tax). It took them about 1.5 hours and looks fantastic. (And I didn't need a drink afterwards.)


They were installed down at the bottom of the console where they "should" (imo) have been. There was also apparently room to install them up higher on the console where the seat warmer switches are in the higher trim levels. They also gave me the option to have them "always hot" or powered off when the vehicle is off. I chose "off" when the car is "off".


I would have preferred USB outlets that look like the others in the vehicle, but I'll never look at them and my kids are happy.


(And I got WeatherTech floor mats for Christmas....It's all good!)
 
#17 · (Edited)
$113 total - Should have been about $150, but they got the wrong USB plugs in. They are pretty basic. I would have had to wait a couple of weeks to get ones I originally requested, but wanted them before we headed out of town.

(And now that the wiring is there, I can always change them out.)
 

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#24 · (Edited)
Okay, I did this job today. Installed 2 usb ports to the center console in our EX-L. I will post a good write-up with pictures soon. I am also running 2 more in the 3rd row, but not sure where to put them yet.

I will say this, forget tapping off the center console USB, all 3 USB's in the EX-L W/O RES come from one unit in the center console with a special plug a small gauge wire. (See attached image, it's behind the panel next to passengers side feet in the center console) For an easy run, you could tap the 12vdc in the center console, but I used an add-a-circuit, which you can use any 12vdc switched fuse.

The space behind the cubby in the center console is minimal, like less than 1", & if you aren't careful you have even less.

Any idea of a preferred location for 3rd row USB?
 

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#25 · (Edited)
The back of the middle console just pops right off. Run your fingers under the trim at the carpet and give it a little tug. Despite the look of these being off alignment, I swear they aren't...

Some have asked if there are wires for the RES behind this panel in models w/o RES. I will say there are 2 bunches of wires that are bare and bundled together right behind this panel right at the carpet level. They go under the carpet so I did not trace them out, but they did NOT have any power on them, so I just left them alone.

To remove the console is a bit more involved. You have to pop off the trim at the feet of the drivers and passenger sides next. (You'll notice there are 2 "hooks" at the front so when you go to put it all back, slide that into place first). After removing the 2 trim pieces, remove the 10 mm screws (one each side) that hold the large side pieces of the console down. I also show the ground location I tapped into.

Next, locate and remove the 2 screws under the rubber mat in front of the shifter.


Now you can grab the large bezel around the shifter and remove it by pulling up. There are 2 more screws (one each side) under this trim piece to loosen the large side pieces of the console. You will need to remove the trim directly above the console, this just pops off.

Next the 2 large pieces on the sides of the center console slide out by pulling straight up. They have several hooks so pay attention when you are putting it back together.

Finally remove the 2 10 mm screws under the rubber mat of the center console. You can gain access to the 12 vdc outlet here if that's what you're after. (Note when you put this back together leave the bolts loose until you get the console all snapped back together, otherwise you may not have tight lines onece it all goes back together)

I chose to run a new 12 vdc wire from the fuse box with an add-a-circuit. If you do this it should be the ATM-LP type. I measured 12vdc on the location pictured with ignition on and nothing when off. This location (2nd from bottom right) had no fuse in it, but you can use any location as the add-a-circuit allows you to do this. This also covered over a 20 amp fuse. I chose this over tapping into the 12vdc outlet because I was adding 4 USB charging ports at 2.1amps @5 VDC.






I used the Axxess AX-USBCHARGE 2.1 for my install for a couple of reasons. First they are very basic, no LEDs, they had long leads, and they fit in a shallow location compared to others. See the attached thumbnails showing the depth allowed by installing in this little cubby in the center console. You have probably less than 1" behind it. I actually still cut the back AX-USBCHARGE to allow the cord to bend 90 deg and glued it into place. To test fit I cut a 1" piece of wood and hot glued it into place on the back then reinstalled the trim before making any cuts. Also note the duct directly behind the cubby has a couple of indentations to allow for a little extra depth for installation, so that's why I have the ports mounted where they are, and not at the bottom of the cubby. I assume these indentations were for the components on models w/ RES, where the HDMI and USB ports would have gone. I considered purchasing the plate that the RES uses, but it was rather expensive (Part number 39590-TG7-A11 and it's about $100-$150) and I'm not sure what type of wiring would have to be done. It would then also have an unused HDMI port as well as RCA and headphone plugs.

To get back to the 3rd row, I routed the wire to under the carpet and under the drivers seat hugging the duct that's in the floor. (It's weird, but the duct gets stepped on apparently) Useful to remove the back 2 bolts on the drivers seat so you can get under it easier. The removed the plastic trim under the door and routed the wire there. There's a few pieces including 1 under the picture below.

From here I popped off most of the rear trim. There is a screw under the little handle and a large screw under the tie down that just above the back seat (3rd row) seat cushion. With those removed I was able to get behind it just enough to install the outlet. I used one of the available threaded studs to ground to on the drivers side and grounded to the screw mounted to the "remote tuner" on the passenger side. I removed the 2 screws (bolts) under the seat and folded the rear cushion up to run the power under the seat to the other side.

I opted to install the 3rd row USB between the 2 cup holders on each side. Here's my final install of the 3rd row.
 

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#26 ·
I finally got around to adding a dual USB port and cigarette lighter port. All I had to pull off was the back panel in the second row. The ports I bought were a little deeper than space would allow with the plastic cup piece, so I bought a sheet of ABS plastic and made a new cover. Not a perfect fit but if I wanted to break out the heat gun, I think I could have made it a little nicer. Project for another day. Power is coming from an add a fuse like GoWolfpack used. It cost around $50 total, but I had to buy wire, connectors and a paddle bit for the drill.
 

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#30 ·
I am a new 2017 EX-L (w/o RES) owner, and thinking of doing this. Purchased a USB connector, but am not 100% sure of the wiring. Is there no available wiring in the center console? Has anyone tried tapping into the 12v receptacle or USB on the other end of the center console?
 
#33 ·
I put one of these in my 05 pilot where the cig. lighter was in the dash panel. Mine also has a digital voltage gauge in the center. I'm sure you can mount this anywhere in your car. I had to ream out the original slightly as it is fatter than the lighter socket hole.
 
#36 ·
Thanks to everyone for the incentive, I took on adding 4 usb ports to the back of the console this week.

I found what I think is a great option and fairly simple given the lack of space behind the pocket.

Supplies list:
2 - Accele Glowing Dual USB Powered Ports - Blue (P/N: USBS-BLU)
1 - Bussman Low Profile Fuse tap (P/N: HHLP)
1 - Low profile fuse 7.5 amp (P/N: ATM-LP)
10 feet - 16 awg red wire
10 feet - 16 awg black wire
8 - tie wraps
as needed - soldier/shrink tubing

The usb ports are pricey ($24) but I think they look great.

Technology Electronic device Cable Electrical supply Electronics accessory
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They come with a 5 foot cable with service connectors and wire taps. I separated the cables at the service connector and used that side of the connector to create a dual supply cable using 16 awg wire (ignore the fuse tap in the picture... I got the wrong one and had to get a low profile one instead).

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I installed the ports in the sides of the lower pocket. They are a little to long to install facing the rear, since they are a little over 1.25" from the face plate back.
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I was able to do the install with only removing the rear panel and the driver side lower foot well panel on the center console. I fished the cable I created forward along the bottom edge of the console along the inside of the center console panel by the driver seat. This allowed me to ground the black wire at the same place as GoWolfPack. I then fished the red wire up over to the driver's side fuse panel and connected it using the low profile fuse tap. I tapped off of Fuse #5 which is the Front Accessory socket (the one near the carplay/android auto usb port).

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Finished product:

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