[dr bob]

Other folks offer great advice.

If the car is at home again and you can do a little checking, I'd pull that 'misfiring' plug and take a hard look at it. If it is oil or oil-coke fouled, try replacing it. Look at the the other two plugs in that same bank, as they see roughly the same amount of VCM duty. Replace as needed, and get started on the VCM-defeat protocols described in @WiiMaster's VCM meg thread. If the plugs are looking like they've been on duty for over 100k as the odometer reads, go ahead and replace them all. As @Nail Grease reminds us, be sure to get the correct NGK Laser Iridium plugs even though they seem relatively spendy.

TL;DR --
The coil packs are pretty smart on their own. They report their basic functionality and also such things as firing voltage required. That firing voltage changes obviously when the plug isn't clean. The diagnostic message is the same for any detected fault. The diagnostic step of swapping the coil packs around is good, and the fact that the diagnostic remained on the same cylinder with coil packs swapped points directly at the spark plug which didn't move.

 

[dr bob]

Thank you for your info. All new coils and spark plugs are due to arrive within the next hour. Hope and pray that works. I can't afford anything else.

Just a reminder --

If the plug is oil fouled, it and the misfire code are a symptom of a larger problem. The VCM mega-thread has a lot of recommendations to go after the problem and the symptoms, the Most Important of which is to purchase and install one of the VCM defeat devices. So long as VCM remains enabled, you'll continue to draw oil into the VCM-deactivated cylinders, and it's only a matter of a short time before that oil ruins more plugs. It doesn't take more than a few plug swaps to pay for a VCM defeat device, even when you can change the plugs yourself. You save on oil (yes, you need to carefully monitor engine oil levels), and there are known collateral damage issues with oxygen sensors ($$) and catalytic converters ($$$$) if the extra oil is allowed to pass through to the exhaust. At ~~$100 or so, disabling the VCM system with one of these devices is -the- essential step in your problem recovery.

I forgot to welcome you to Piloteeers! The community here is dedicated to helping other Pilot owners.

 

[dr bob]

If you have the code reader you can use it to clear stored DTC's. Maybe easier than disconnecting the battery, waiting, reconnecting the battery, resetting the entertainment stack.

Get one of the VCM disablers right away, and install it ASAP. Follow the mega thread guidance on the other remedial steps. Most important that you swap in good synthetic oil immediately, monitor levels closely until consumption stops. Plan of more frequent changes for a while as the extra detergent works to clear the oil coke that's fouling the oil control rings. Synthetic oil is much less likely to cause detonation when it does pass the rings, an important benefit.

Get that disabler on the way and get it installed, else you'll be forever plagued by the misfire symptoms, and risk $$$ damage to oxy sensors and catalytic converters. Trust us....

 

[dr bob]

Any ideas on back up monitors lol mine went out one day. Then about 3 days later came back on. Then it would get like white lines going thru the image (only when in reverse). The monitor is fine when on all other screens so I know it's not the monitor itself. I would love to trace the wiring from monitor to rear but have no clue how they ran it. It ideas?

Most popular cause of this is camera failing. Do a little searching in the forum and you'll find some history including fixes with aftermarket replacement cameras. The Pilots have two camera options depending on trim level. The hi trims get a camera with three selectable views - regular, wide, and top-down looking at the bumper and trailer hitch.

Start a new thread for this if you need more support.