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Hi everyone - our 2012 Pilot was part of the Piston Ring recall and we did have the Piston rings replaced a few years ago. Over the weekend, with no warning whatsoever, we lost the engine. It sounded like a dropped a muffler, and then the car seized up and stopped. Upon inspection there was oil all over the road and smoke starting to come out from under the hood. We had the car towed to the dealer who told us that the car threw a rod out the bottom of the engine and blew a hole threw the oil pan. The car has 142,940 miles on it. We were told that the warranty expired on 10/1/2019 or at 120,000 miles (whichever was to happen first). We asked our trusted mechanic his opinion and he feel strongly that this engine rod issue was connected to the piston ring problem. There was no check engine light and the car was running fine when this happened. Anyone experience anything like this or have any advice for us about what our rights might be according to the recall and known engine problems for this vehicle? Thanks!
 

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If the engine ran for "years" after the maintenance, without serious issues, codes, then I don't see how you could absolutely connect a thrown rod with this service.

Since it is so rare for this engine to fail catastrophically like that, and the fact that this engine was partially disassembled to replace piston rings and re-torquing the rod bearings is something that was touched, it is totally normal for your mechanic to associate this failure with the previous service. However, proving that it is connected or even the root cause, after years of driving post-service, will be very, very difficult.

It is possible you had a totally unrelated failure, such as the oil pump failed, etc, that lead to this. You'd need a deep, detailed engine failure diagnosis to achieve that. If the rod that was thrown is from one of the repaired pistons, that might help your case.

Your best recourse is probably to contact Honda Care, open a case and request goodwill given the circumstances. I have a feeling you have a big hill to climb, given the amount of time that has passed.
 
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You never changed the oil or maintenance when it was needed .. You can't say you did since you probably left it up to you trusted mechanic.

A thrown rod is usually the result of metal fatigue, insufficient lubrication or over-revving of an engine. When gasoline combusts in a cylinder, it drives the piston head downward, pushing the connecting rod and turning the crankshaft. ... Throwing a rod is usually a catastrophic engine failure.

sell the Pilot or install a new engine .a US based crate engine will run around 2 grand
 

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You never changed the oil or maintenance when it was needed .. You can't say you did since you probably left it up to you trusted mechanic.

A thrown rod is usually the result of metal fatigue, insufficient lubrication or over-revving of an engine. When gasoline combusts in a cylinder, it drives the piston head downward, pushing the connecting rod and turning the crankshaft. ... Throwing a rod is usually a catastrophic engine failure.

sell the Pilot or install a new engine .a US based crate engine will run around 2 grand
How can you say the owner never changed the oil or did maintenance? There was oil in the car as evidenced by the fact that oil was spilling out of the car. It seems like it was just some freak accident. I hope that if maintenance records can be produced Honda would give a little assistance toward a new engine. That should not happen with a Honda engine.
 

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How can you say the owner never changed the oil or did maintenance? There was oil in the car as evidenced by the fact that oil was spilling out of the car. It seems like it was just some freak accident. I hope that if maintenance records can be produced Honda would give a little assistance toward a new engine. That should not happen with a Honda engine.
insufficient lubrication or over-revving of an engine

more like abuse

I Highly doubt leaking piston rings will cause a rod to be thrown , When you have bad piston rings, engine oil will start leaking into the combustion chamber. Once that happens, the oil will burn and create the thick gray and white exhaust smoke that you see coming out ..and this was ...what ignored ?..just saying
 

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insufficient lubrication or over-revving of an engine

more like abuse

I Highly doubt leaking piston rings will cause a rod to be thrown , When you have bad piston rings, engine oil will start leaking into the combustion chamber. Once that happens, the oil will burn and create the thick gray and white exhaust smoke that you see coming out ..and this was ...what ignored ?..just saying
Generally that will throw a misfire code when it's bad enough. Without a teardown diagnosis from a qualified shop with no dog in the fight.... everyone will just be guessing.
 
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Generally that will throw a misfire code when it's bad enough. Without a teardown diagnosis from a qualified shop with no dog in the fight.... everyone will just be guessing.
yes that's true ..
 

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That really sucks and kills the whole idea of buying a Honda. Yeah I’d try contacting Honda care but wouldn’t expect much. They would probably say it’s out of warranty and or say it needs to be accessed by the dealer.

Low mile long blocks are about $2k like state above and then another $1,500-$2,000 to install is my guess.

Good luck and sorry for your loss.

 

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Sorry to hear about this but I think it's near impossible for you to connect a ring repair to a thrown rod. Tahoefever already explained it, that occurs because of overreving or poor lubrication causing the metal to fatigue.

Still doesn't hurt to try and get some goodwill coverage but I'd be prepared to bear 100% of the costs.
 

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Add to the fact that it seems stretching out oil change intervals seems to be in popular, running water thin 0W-20 on an engine with 142k-going by the MM and changing the oil at 7k + intervals could be a factor as well.
 

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That really sucks and kills the whole idea of buying a Honda. Yeah I’d try contacting Honda care but wouldn’t expect much. They would probably say it’s out of warranty and or say it needs to be accessed by the dealer.

Low mile long blocks are about $2k like state above and then another $1,500-$2,000 to install is my guess.

Good luck and sorry for your loss.

I've been on this board for quite a while and this is the first catastrophic engine failure that I've seen. So what's the answer, buy a GM?
 

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I've been on this board for quite a while and this is the first catastrophic engine failure that I've seen. So what's the answer, buy a GM?
Funny you say that, I just finished reading a stretched timing chain resulting in replacement engine thread on the Traverse forum. I will tell you major issues are more common over there. Minor issues seems to be pretty equal between the two. The electronics in the Traverse seem to be more glitchy and cause more posts.
 
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Cinto I've owned 4 GM's from new since 1998, ALL of them had been problematic. Probably the best one out of all of them was a 98 S15 Jimmy 4.3 that ran well despite having the trans replaced at 39k, remote oil filter line sets replaced twice and intake manifold gaskets. After the trans was replaced at about 43k, the rear main seal started a slow leak, AFTER the trans was replaced. I drove it about another 100K leaking all the way.

I had a 00 Century(again, bought new) and the 3100 developed piston slap. Fixed under warranty-then the good ole Delphi valve body in the trans-started to "slam shift" at about 60k, then the intake manifold gaskets had to be replaced at about 90k, then at about 120k, the trans again started to slam shift. This time, however, a can of Sea Foam went in and I got rid of it!

2009 Pontiac VIbe GT(yes, I know theoretically a Toyota Matrix) Powertrain Control Module failure over 1000 miles away from home, excessive wear/play/movement in front driver's seat frame(twice)-dumped it at Carmax at 39K

2011 Chevrolet Malibu(True GM from the "new GM"). shift chatter in 1st gear that was never rectified, wife is driving it, alternator failure on Interstate 94 in Gary, IN with 25K on the clock. Offed that one at Carmax as well.

2012 1998 Jimmy, now running good with new brakes, etc, gets T-bone totaled with wife driving(after we dumped the "Bu"). Fortunately it was a low speed accident but insurance totaled it due to age, corrosion and potential hidden damage.

7/31/2012-Enter 2012 Pilot EX-L. I've never gone back to GM, don't think I ever will.
 

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I've been on this board for quite a while and this is the first catastrophic engine failure that I've seen. So what's the answer, buy a GM?
I would never recommend a GM vehicle, I wouldn’t recommend a VW/Audi 4cylinder either but the VR6 engines I’ve had since the mid 90’s have been fairly bulletproof.

The VW’s I’ve had also have never had paint flake off in large chunks.
 

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Moral of this story... nobody really builds bulletproof vehicles anymore so get what you like and pray it lasts.
 
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Moral of this story... nobody really builds bulletproof vehicles anymore so get what you like and pray it lasts.
Toyota 4runners are still pretty bulletproof I hear.
 

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Toyota 4runners are still pretty bulletproof I hear.
They've had a lot of infotainment issues, but the drivetrain is pretty bulletproof albeit much more primitive than most people would accept nowadays. I personally love them. Also, I can't remember for sure but if that 5 speed auto was from the "lifetime fluid" generation than I'm sure they had plenty of failures like the Tundras did. My Tacoma was a 6 speed manual, while pretty stout the throwout bearings were known to fail.
 

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i couldn't stand looking at the new GM trucks.. you lean on the fender and it dents it. like wth? I have an old 2011 suburban going to drop a Cummings in her when the weather gets warm.
GM and others have really dropped the ball on the workmanship qualities. Toyota has followed suit and now Honda is playing in that sand box also.
 
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