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Discussion Starter #1
What's a cost-effective approach for repairing cracked LCA compression bushings? Honda parts guy recommended it was more cost-effective just to get new bushings pressed in. Pilot has 120K and new LCA with all new bushings seems to make more sense. Any suggestions on replacement LCA like MOOG etc. and from which vender like Rock Auto etc.
 

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Your instincts are correct: new LCAs. Don't forget to claim your 5% Piloteers discount over at Rockauto when you order.
 

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It comes down to labor. The control arm must be removed to service it. Once removed, you can buy the two bushings and a ball joint for around $50. Or you can buy the control arm for $60-$80.

I cannot imagine someone removing and installing 2 bushings and a ball joint, for less than $10-$30. This is why most people simply buy a replacement control arm. Labor is expensive. If you are doing DIY, this is a no brainer as you don't need a press, less risk of having an issue or damaging a new part.
 
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To add what plplplpl said getting new aftermarket LCAs is the better alternative as you will get a new ball joint along with a new compliance bushings. The drawback is that an alignment will need to be performed after the LCAs are replaced.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you everyone for guiding me in the right direction. The Pilot has been a good reliable vehicle and it's time for some TLC
 

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Mevotech's at RockAuto are about $130 shipped, after 5% discount, but they come with a 5 year warranty. It's all made in China these days.... so it comes down to who do you trust. Mevotech doesn't have the most glorious reputation these days, neither does Moog... like they used to.
 
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ProForged. Well-built, fit great, no worries.

Replacing bushings or ball joints individually is a waste of time and money. If one is gone, replace everything.
 

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ProForged. Well-built, fit great, no worries.

Replacing bushings or ball joints individually is a waste of time and money. If one is gone, replace everything.
Proforged are the most expensive ones on the aftermarket. Do they have a quality standard that puts them above SKP/Moog/Mevotech/Beck/ACDelco? I don't know anything about the company, so serious question.
 

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Proforged are the most expensive ones on the aftermarket. Do they have a quality standard that puts them above SKP/Moog/Mevotech/Beck/ACDelco? I don't know anything about the company, so serious question.
When I needed to do LCA’s, I beat the internet to death trying to figure out which was best. Honda's price was just silly, so that was out. I don’t think that there’s any way to know for sure short of buying something and driving on it for a few years, but here’s what I found:

  • Moog for Gen1 Pilot was their “value” line.
  • A few others all looked the same, leading me to suspect they’re just brand differences on the same part.
  • I forget why MevoTech didn’t make the cut. They seem to be popular.
  • ProForged ball joints had very positive current reviews on some hot-rodder forums.
Most common failure modes seem to be torn ball joint boots, ball joint erosion and cracked compliance bushings. The forgings are probably bulletproof across the board. I paid the extra hoping for better odds on the ball joints. I won’t know if that was smart or foolish for another 60-70k miles or so. The ride was hugely improved with the new LCA’s and KYB struts.
 

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When I needed to do LCA’s, I beat the internet to death trying to figure out which was best. Honda's price was just silly, so that was out. I don’t think that there’s any way to know for sure short of buying something and driving on it for a few years, but here’s what I found:

  • Moog for Gen1 Pilot was their “value” line.
  • A few others all looked the same, leading me to suspect they’re just brand differences on the same part.
  • I forget why MevoTech didn’t make the cut. They seem to be popular.
  • ProForged ball joints had very positive current reviews on some hot-rodder forums.
Most common failure modes seem to be torn ball joint boots, ball joint erosion and cracked compliance bushings. The forgings are probably bulletproof across the board. I paid the extra hoping for better odds on the ball joints. I won’t know if that was smart or foolish for another 60-70k miles or so. The ride was hugely improved with the new LCA’s and KYB struts.
I notice they have lifetime warranty, so even if they do wear out - perhaps it cannot be foolish.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The ride was hugely improved with the new LCA’s and KYB struts.
Looking at Proforged LCA + tie rods at Rock Auto with reasonable shipping. The KYB strut plus+shocks at Rockauto had super high shipping. Will chat with Autoanything.com to match prices with either Amazon or Rockauto.
 

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If you can ship the Rockauto stuff to a commercial address it really saves on the shipping. I usually get my heavy stuff shipped to work.
 

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Looking at Proforged LCA + tie rods at Rock Auto with reasonable shipping. The KYB strut plus+shocks at Rockauto had super high shipping. Will chat with Autoanything.com to match prices with either Amazon or Rockauto.
I like to buy at RockAuto whenever I can. When I bought my Bilsteins for my F150, I ended up buying them from a company I never heard of (there are MANY in the auto/truck performance market) as they were cheaper than anywhere else and free shipping too. It pays to shop around on things like that. Just dont cheap out and get no-name china struts. There are plenty of those around. The price is tempting but my guts says it won't be worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I like to buy at RockAuto whenever I can. When I bought my Bilsteins for my F150, I ended up buying them from a company I never heard of (there are MANY in the auto/truck performance market) as they were cheaper than anywhere else and free shipping too. It pays to shop around on things like that. Just dont cheap out and get no-name china struts. There are plenty of those around. The price is tempting but my guts says it won't be worth it.
Agree on installing quality parts the first time whenever possible. Just tested the RA cart again with the Proforged LCA+tie rods + KYB suspension kit (2 strut+2shock) and the shipping changed from $85 yesterday and now its $35. Thats much better!
 

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If you can ship the Rockauto stuff to a commercial address it really saves on the shipping. I usually get my heavy stuff shipped to work.
Really, how does that work? If it's in the same city or area, how does it make it cheaper to ship to a commercial address rather than to a home address?
 

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Agree on installing quality parts the first time whenever possible. Just tested the RA cart again with the Proforged LCA+tie rods + KYB suspension kit (2 strut+2shock) and the shipping changed from $85 yesterday and now its $35. Thats much better!
Don't forget the 5% piloteers discount
 
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Really, how does that work? If it's in the same city or area, how does it make it cheaper to ship to a commercial address rather than to a home address?
If the carrier is UPS or FedEx their trucks run the commercial route every day so the trucks are probably going there or right by there anyway. Residential routes typically take longer.

When you enter the address in Rockauto it will calculate the shipping based on the location and whether or not it is commercial or residential.

I just put two KYB quickstruts in my cart and shipping to my house was $25 and shipping to work was $19. Same zip code and same carrier.
 

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I have a 2005 Pilot with 239K miles. Three years ago I replaced the control arm bushings. The shop wanted $600 and the parts are maybe $40 total. First, let me state, the labor is difficult. There are two challenges: removing and installing the control arm bushings, and reinstalling the lower control arm assembly. I bought the special tool device to remove and install the control arm bushings. Then I watched a YouTube video that explained that no one does that. I would definitely buy the entire assembly from RockAuto, but it you want the special tools contact me. It was very difficult for me to install the CV axle and push the axle into the wheel. I've forgotten the details, but it took a lot of force on the passenger side. The drivers side was easier. I don't know if I was just unlucky.

You will definitely need a realignment when you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have a 2005 Pilot with 239K miles. Three years ago I replaced the control arm bushings. The shop wanted $600 and the parts are maybe $40 total. First, let me state, the labor is difficult. There are two challenges: removing and installing the control arm bushings, and reinstalling the lower control arm assembly. I bought the special tool device to remove and install the control arm bushings. Then I watched a YouTube video that explained that no one does that. I would definitely buy the entire assembly from RockAuto, but it you want the special tools contact me. It was very difficult for me to install the CV axle and push the axle into the wheel. I've forgotten the details, but it took a lot of force on the passenger side. The drivers side was easier. I don't know if I was just unlucky.

You will definitely need a realignment when you are done.
Thanks for the kind offer. I ordered new LCA from RockAuto. In my short time here I learned a bunch @piloteers that steered me to new LCA as other components may be similarly worn. Plan on posting my front suspension rebuild once the weather warms up some on the East coast.
 
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