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Discussion Starter #1
Are any of you using Teflon additive in the engine?

Which product or method of introduction are you using?

Read the marketing material on em, but the question is -
Any negatives to using it?

Thanks
 

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Diesel-Lover said:
Are any of you using Teflon additive in the engine?

Which product or method of introduction are you using?

Read the marketing material on em, but the question is -
Any negatives to using it?

Thanks
Most do nothing, some are worse.

Remember;
1) your oil filter is very good at removing particles, even teflon particles.
2) The process of bonding teflon to bearing surfaces is an exact science that is not going to happen by chance in your engine.

Althou I hear they are 100% effective in removing excess cash for your wallet.
 

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It doesn't work

I wish I could remember the full details of the "government study' that was done that showed it didn't decrease wear,or improve mileage,and it might gum up the filter and any small passages.I hate to just give the old "a study was done" without being able to reference it a bit better,but...
Now,there are some companies that will Teflon coat your piston skirts,but just slopping it in there with the oil isn't quite the same thing.
I have used Slick 50 -about 10+ years ago-the ads are really convincing,but I have come to believe that the car companies and lube companies know more about lubrication than I do.Luck,Charlie

PS Sometimes I add a little of a Moly additive-Kalgard-to my cheap($1000) single cyl motorcycles in the hopes it will extend cam,and follower life(they fail on the Yamaha 500's),but not to my $27000 Pilot-especially while it is in warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was at the store the other day and noticed a Duraguard phram filter for the pilot (7 ish). It has teflon in it which is supposed to be flushed into the engine as one drives. I looked inside it and there was some type of jell in the filter. The dude at the autostore said that he is not sure if the teflon actually sticks to the walls but thought that it may help some just being suspended in the oil. I asked if it wouldn't just settle out in the oil pan, he said that there is enough mixing going on to keep it suspended.
 

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Diesel-Lover said:
I was at the store the other day and noticed a Duraguard phram filter for the pilot (7 ish). It has teflon in it which is supposed to be flushed into the engine as one drives. I looked inside it and there was some type of jell in the filter. The dude at the autostore said that he is not sure if the teflon actually sticks to the walls but thought that it may help some just being suspended in the oil. I asked if it wouldn't just settle out in the oil pan, he said that there is enough mixing going on to keep it suspended.
Cool, a new way to lighten your wallet!

If adding Teflon got you 1/10 of a MPG the car manufacturers would do it to help the CAFE number!
 

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I have used Slick50 in all my vehicles since the early 80's. I don't get better mpg or performance. What I get is lower engine temps. I became a believer this way.

Back in my earlier, more brave (or stupid) days, I towed a boat with a V8 Mustang. The thing had a lot of power for pulling but was always overheating on hills. I toyed with the idea of installing an engine oil cooler, but then thought I would try Slick50. It worked like a dream. On one trip the water pump failed but the car never over heated and I drove it home that way towing the boat!

I have always thought Slick50 would be perfect for VW Bug enthusiasts who always are fighting high temps. Instead of putting on extra air scoops they could just add Slick50.

BTW, I have never had an engine failure with Slick50 so I don't think it does any harm.
 

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Pilot pilot said:
I have used Slick50 in all my vehicles since the early 80's. I don't get better mpg or performance. What I get is lower engine temps. I became a believer this way.

Back in my earlier, more brave (or stupid) days, I towed a boat with a V8 Mustang. The thing had a lot of power for pulling but was always overheating on hills. I toyed with the idea of installing an engine oil cooler, but then thought I would try Slick50. It worked like a dream. On one trip the water pump failed but the car never over heated and I drove it home that way towing the boat!

I have always thought Slick50 would be perfect for VW Bug enthusiasts who always are fighting high temps. Instead of putting on extra air scoops they could just add Slick50.

BTW, I have never had an engine failure with Slick50 so I don't think it does any harm.
I don't think it does any harm, but doubt it does any good.
As for the lower temps???
That I am not sure about, but no V-8 (Ford, Chevy , or Porsche) is going to run under load without a water pump.
The heat doess not all come from friction, and without cooling there is no way to get rid of the combustion heat.

(do you mean the pump was leaking and you kept adding water?)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I must admit on my past well used autos, I have used slick 50. The effect may have been psychological or perhaps it was physical I can't say for sure as I did not have any sophisticated measurement instruments.

But over all I felt that the engine would rev smoother, run quieter and cooler. The jalopies in question were, a Saab, Toyota Camry, CRX and a FORD E350 diesel. It also seemed to help with the shift points.

My CRX seemed to show the most improvement in mpg, it improved by about 1 mpg or perhaps my driving style improved.. can't exactly say.

As per Private Pilots experience: The temp gages did seem to indicate a lower operational temps. The SAAB and the Camry seemed to show an improvement in power but again can't exactly give you a xx degree or hp measurement.

I did use the duraguard FRAM on the pilot with the mobile 1, will let you know my findings in a week or so.

Will be doing the same on the same oil change on the Element this coming weekend.

If it helps the pilot stay in 5 over minor overpass grades it will be worth it in my book as I find the down shifts bothersome during trips.
 

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"That I am not sure about, but no V-8 (Ford, Chevy , or Porsche) is going to run under load without a water pump.
The heat doess not all come from friction, and without cooling there is no way to get rid of the combustion heat.

(do you mean the pump was leaking and you kept adding water?)"


The fan was loose (it could move side to side about two inches, almost hitting the radiator) and the coolant was leaking. Evidently the bearing and seal failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Private Pilot,

You were lucky that there was enough water going around to keep the engine within operational ranges though I imagine you were on the upper border.

During some of my previous automotive engine overheating due to radiator/water-pump/hose failure stints I always turn on the cabin heat and fan to help keep the engine cool.

Must admit once I bought an old toyota beater for a winter-run-about and on my way home it overheated and the oil foamed out. I think the previous owner had not changed oil for a couple of years! Ran a bunch of oil through it along with that motor-flush stuff, after that the engine worked like a charm. Also did the points, plugs and generic wires at the same time. The thing ran beautifully, after the winter I sold the motor to a friend and the body was used by the frat for a bashing with the sledge hammer during spring fest to raise money for a charity.

Since my PILOT oil change and pfte add, I notice that the engine is just a hair more free revving, but then I had a confound of the synthetic oil plus the teflon at the same time.

I will have to go on a slightly longer highway trip on a route I am familiar with to see if there is any change in the down shifting on the minor up hills.
 

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Here are some thoughts I have found on another forum, which is dedicated to oil and other forms of lubrication:


Teflon(PTFE) of other brand names of the same solid lubricant pellets are effective at sliding friction lubrication if you can get the PTFE to adhere to the point of contact.

What Slick 50 does is inhibits sound because of its density, then you think (placebo) that the engine is running more smoothly. IF the pellets are not machined small enough they have an affinity to "stack or pool" at oil journal entry points and block off up to 50% of the lower area of the journal, disrupting oil flow rate and causing localized heating. This can starve a critical area of lubrication and because of localized heating create a temporary increase in performance (thinner oil sheared or thinned by heat) until the oil starved component is destroyed.

Finally the solids have an affinity at resting in the oil pan/sump and collecting and holding sludge precursors that eventually collect into full-blown black sludge creating more problems.

If you check with the Federal Trade Commission, you will find that the people who sell Slick 50, along with the people who sell several other oil supplements and engine treatments, have been fined by the federal government. Others that have been fined include Prolong, Duralube, STP, Valvoline for a product they came out with in the past, and I believe Zmax.

So if you really want to use Slick 50 or these other products, go ahead. Use a product whose makers have been fined for false advertising.

There always seems to be some new oil supplement or engine treatment being sold. People are always looking for the magic stuff. But the magic stuff never seems to arrive.

You are better off using a good quality motor oil, conventional or synthetic. I would not put anything in my motor oil except for Auto-RX, Neutra, or Schaeffer's #132


If you want more information, read these threads:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Observational update:

Been a week of daily driving with the pfte and the mob1. The car was quieter. I also noticed that it seemed to down shift a bit less than before over the same route.

Again no scientific data just personal observations. The RPMs while doing 71 on relatively flat highway was a hair under 2k (I had not looked at rpms before so can't say if this has been lowered).
 

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Diesel-Lover said:
Observational update:

Been a week of daily driving with the pfte and the mob1. The car was quieter. I also noticed that it seemed to down shift a bit less than before over the same route.

Again no scientific data just personal observations. The RPMs while doing 71 on relatively flat highway was a hair under 2k (I had not looked at rpms before so can't say if this has been lowered).
RPM at a given speed is fixed by the gear ratios, and will not change due to anything the oil can do.
 

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ZMAX

I know this post is kinda old but I was searching about additives and thought I'd chime in...

before selling my 93 v6 4runner with 135K on the clock, I decided I'd try out a small 12oz bottle of ZMAX engine treatment that someone had given me. The oil in the truck had been in there for about 3 months and had at most 2000 miles since the last oil change.

I had just come back from a short trip when this idea hit me. I poured the entire content of the ZMAX bottle into the engine, replace the oil cap and started the truck up to find that:

The engine idled and ran a ton smoother. Almost to the extent that with the hood closed and windows up, I could barely hear it running. The engine/body shake that we were so accustomed to at idle was almost completely gone. I asked my wife to come out and drive the truck around the block without telling her what I had done, and even she noticed and remarked that it ran smoother, 'felt' peppier and was quieter. I thought that this was an amazing difference from just one 12oz bottle of additive.

I asked my buddy who gave the bottle to me, and he told me that they sold it to him as part of his Toyota Oil service as it is something they recommend with every oil change.

I'm not saying that I endorse this stuff, as I only had the truck for about a week after that and never had a chance to compare mileage. I was just amazed at how smooth the old v6 engine ran once I poured that stuff in there.
 
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