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I hate this AST, I have 2018
did anyone have the towing package with their pilot?

I saw this video /watch?v=bG_-Ibvrdn4 (sorry can't post link yet)
he using a towing light tester plug into his car, this got me thinking

maybe install this two things, maybe can trick the system?

Hopkins 48925 Tail Light Converter with 4 Wire Flat Extension $13
+
Curt 58260 4-Way Flat Connector Tester $5
 

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Does anyone have a link to a video for how to get the wire out of the socket? I've tried a needle, paperclip, and a couple other tiny pieces but have had no luck!
 

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My 2016 touring's idle start has been acting up lately...
similar to what's being reported - initially, it started to shut off everything on the console, radio, etc with a pop noise when it starts back up which happened every 3rd time or so and lately, i had a case where it shut off the car entirely and put me into neutral or park. i had to shut off the car and turn it back on. very dangerous.
will take it in for service and see if they can do anything... if not will try this out the hood and the wiring options. Thanks for sharing.

i'm 500 miles from my standard 36000 mile warranty. so hoping to get this done. i did get the extended 120k warranty, not sure if it's more hassle for dealer to claim against that vs standard... either case, i'll try to get the car in this week.
 

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My 2016 touring's idle start has been acting up lately...
similar to what's being reported - initially, it started to shut off everything on the console, radio, etc with a pop noise when it starts back up which happened every 3rd time or so and lately, i had a case where it shut off the car entirely and put me into neutral or park. i had to shut off the car and turn it back on. very dangerous.
will take it in for service and see if they can do anything... if not will try this out the hood and the wiring options. Thanks for sharing.

i'm 500 miles from my standard 36000 mile warranty. so hoping to get this done. i did get the extended 120k warranty, not sure if it's more hassle for dealer to claim against that vs standard... either case, i'll try to get the car in this week.
Get them to replace the battery even if its tests fine. My battery tested fine every time I brought in the car when it failed to restart after the auto idle stop. Replaced my battery last month because car failed to start entirely and had to be jump started. So far I have not yet had any more problems with the auto idle stop restart.

Someone else with the same problem posted recently that their mechanic discovered an abnormal current draw from the battery that went away when he opened and closed all four doors+hatch and suspects that there is an electrical issue with one of the door switches, lights, or hatch motors. So might be something for you to mention and have them look into.
 

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Get them to replace the battery even if its tests fine. My battery tested fine every time I brought in the car when it failed to restart after the auto idle stop. Replaced my battery last month because car failed to start entirely and had to be jump started. So far I have not yet had any more problems with the auto idle stop restart.

Someone else with the same problem posted recently that their mechanic discovered an abnormal current draw from the battery that went away when he opened and closed all four doors+hatch and suspects that there is an electrical issue with one of the door switches, lights, or hatch motors. So might be something for you to mention and have them look into.
Yup. it was the battery. they said it tested low and replaced it under warranty. no issues since with idle stop. still hate it so i did the hood method for now. will hard wire it if it gets problematic again.
 

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What if you don't have the tow package?

I was thinking maybe one of the Idle Stop fuses could simply be removed to disable the feature. I'm just not sure if anyone has tried it or which fuse would do the trick without creating issues.







 

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I got the EX model with the manual shifter..It has just enough bells and whistles for my liking without all the extra BS... Best choice.. I work as a Mopar Technition and I have to deal with this crap on Mopar Vehicles. Most have a second small battery about size of one for a ATV or Snow Mobile/ lawnmower. That battery maintains electronics in vehicle while engine is stopped and main battery starts the car. If one goes bad, it will kill the other. It also has the switch to turn it off, but no way to bypass it. Turning the steering wheel, taking foot off brake, adjusting HVAC controls, etc. causes the engine to restart.
 

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What if you don't have the tow package?

I was thinking maybe one of the Idle Stop fuses could simply be removed to disable the feature. I'm just not sure if anyone has tried it or which fuse would do the trick without creating issues.








This does not work on my '17 Touring.


Pulling fuse 12 = No start


Pulling fuse 13 = LKAS fault + no start


Pulling fuse 14 = No start
 

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Thank you Rose City. I appreciate the information.

I guess RGVPilot's yellow-wire/green-wire method seems like the most effective solution right now. I'll probably go that route in a few months once my factory warranty is up. Thanks again!
 

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Got a call and email today from federal Department of Transportation in response to the complaint I submitted way back on July 17, 2018 to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) online about the auto idle stop stalling problem.

Email said "My name is ___ from NHTSA (Office of Defects Investigations) and I want to follow up with you on your 2016 Honda Pilot regarding your complaint list below. Has the dealer been able to duplicate the problems? and what was done to fix the issue."

Haven't had a chance to call back, but wanted to pass this along and encourage others who have had this problem to submit a complaint at File a Vehicle Safety Complaint | Safercar.gov | NHTSA. As of today, I've counted about 9 complaints submitted to NHTSA and I know more people on this forum have complained. It looks like NHTSA is finally looking into it.

So far I have not had the problem since I replaced the car battery in August.
 

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Anyone know how to remove the wireless charger in the '19 model in order to access the screws for the centre console? Don't know where to pry it open while keeping the wireless charging pad intact...
 

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@kmc27 did you replace the battery with Honda's replacement or went with another brand? I have not had the issue on my '16 but I think my turn is coming up soon.

Thanks
 

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RGVPilot, An excellent solution and well documented too, thanks. I planned to devise a delayed action one shot relay setup to send a pulse a few seconds after starting the Pilot to disable the "feature" every time I got into the car.

Based on your work which proved that a contact closure pulse wasn't needed, only a closure, I came up with a distilled solution.

I stuffed a toothpick alongside the pushbutton to keep it in the engaged state.

Works like a charm!
 
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