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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was cleaning the throttle body ( 0507 code ) and had a bright idea that I should probably replace the pcv valve on my 2009 Pilot with 231,000 miles on it.I knew to go slow, twist and pry slowly , it snapped anyways and 1/2 is inside the valve cover.
I tried tapping with a thread tap but the end inside seems to have fallen off into the space. I am planning on removing the valve cover and retrieve it. check the gap on the valves and replace the gaskets of course. tonight should be a cold and long night pulling things apart
Any thoughts , suggestions or ideas on this ....
Shamefully for me the pvc vavle is the many miles passed being replaced and it definitely looked like it had started to disintegrate , so I earned this punishment .
The vehicle has run strong ever since I purchased it and other than the normal wear items it has been low maintenance . The original alternator was replaced at 228K , just did radiator due to the transmission line blowing itself out of it...
 

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It likely could use valve cover gaskets, grommets and spark plug tube seals replaced anyway. Can also check valve clearances if any are clattering. I used this method without removing the intake manifold completely, using a board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It likely could use valve cover gaskets, grommets and spark plug tube seals replaced anyway. Can also check valve clearances if any are clattering. I used this method without removing the intake manifold completely, using a board.
I am planning on the gasket and tube seals , in rush at the moment for use of vehicle so plan on front cover first ... then in a few weeks do it again for the back. No current chattering from the motor.
Thanks for the suggestion may take a shot at it ... great thing there were plenty of videos on the valvle cover job. Ordered most of the gaskets I will disturb just to have them, pick up before diving in .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
pulled intake manifold / valve covers and removed rest stuck pcv valve pieces ... put it all back together with new gaskets on the valve covers . now that it is connected up I now get 4 new codes
Current Fault Log
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P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0118: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P2659: A Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High bank2
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Thinking possible ground gone bad for those components ...3 would have sensors replaced 102 MAF sensor replace....manifold pressure ( test first ) maybe replace / 118 clean electrical connector and possible replace the sensor...
About a month ago the radiator blew out the transmission line and upper hose on the radiator gave out, trans fluid over lower motor components and coolant all over the top ones as well as lower. Perfect storm.

Anyone have thoughts on this or possibly had same issue with codes the same as well? Vehicle idles high around 2K, tried the idle reset procedure as well.
 

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pulled intake manifold / valve covers and removed rest stuck pcv valve pieces ... put it all back together with new gaskets on the valve covers . now that it is connected up I now get 4 new codes
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0118: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P2659: A Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High bank2
-----------------------

Thinking possible ground gone bad for those components ...3 would have sensors replaced 102 MAF sensor replace....manifold pressure ( test first ) maybe replace / 118 clean electrical connector and possible replace the sensor...
About a month ago the radiator blew out the transmission line and upper hose on the radiator gave out, trans fluid over lower motor components and coolant all over the top ones as well as lower. Perfect storm.

Anyone have thoughts on this or possibly had same issue with codes the same as well? Vehicle idles high around 2K, tried the idle reset procedure as well.
CRC Electronic Cleaner is great for cleaning electrical connectors. Can spray directly into the visible MAF electrodes. Let each dry thoroughly before reconnecting. Check each conectior for bent prongs. Hopefully this will solve some of the codes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
CRC Electronic Cleaner is great for cleaning electrical connectors. Can spray directly into the visible MAF electrodes. Let each dry thoroughly before reconnecting. Check each conectior for bent prongs. Hopefully this will solve some of the codes.
... Is MAF cleaner the same thing? Otherwise I will grab a can
 

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... Is MAF cleaner the same thing? Otherwise I will grab a can
I always buy the Electronic Cleaner because it's cheaper. If it's safe for the electrodes in a MAF, and evaporates quickly, I can't imagine it hurting electrical connections.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So after cleaning connections I removed the new codes, but 0507 is still there and I have tried various idle relearn procedures that have not corrected it.
The throttle body is OE from 2009 and 231K miles.. maybe it is time to just replace it?
Other than that any suggestions would be appreciated... where to go next, the next step in troubleshooting says
1. Electric throttle control actuator misadjusted or damaged
2. Faulty Electric throttle control actuator
3. Intake air leak ( cannot find bad holes or noise of vacuum leak )

Matt
 

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Possible causes of P0507
  • Dirty throttle body
  • Electric throttle control actuator misadjusted or damaged
  • Faulty Electric throttle control actuator
  • Intake air leak
  • Poor electrical connection to the Intake Air Control (IAC) valve
If there wasn't a problem before coolant and ATF went everywhere, I'm still thinking of a faulty conection, but yes, the actuator or control valve may may be out. Not overly familiar with these parts. Never had this code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update
I broke down and took it to my mechanic , it needs to be running for the family.
Tests for vacuum leaks ( using propane and again with carb cleaner around motor ) and resets and other tasks showed now cause , so Throttle Body was replaced code cleared ran fine.
This morning fired it up with OBD reader on and let it warm up on it's own without throttle applied to speed up process . Once it was warm it maintained about 968 rpm which is still a little high but then the P0507 code came back.
Anyone have any thoughts of where to go here? thinking intake manifold gasket replacement even though it was not showing a vacuum leak there? Cheap enough part and have it already

thanks
 

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Update
I broke down and took it to my mechanic , it needs to be running for the family.
Tests for vacuum leaks ( using propane and again with carb cleaner around motor ) and resets and other tasks showed now cause , so Throttle Body was replaced code cleared ran fine.
This morning fired it up with OBD reader on and let it warm up on it's own without throttle applied to speed up process . Once it was warm it maintained about 968 rpm which is still a little high but then the P0507 code came back.
Anyone have any thoughts of where to go here? thinking intake manifold gasket replacement even though it was not showing a vacuum leak there? Cheap enough part and have it already

thanks
If each electrical connection has been cleaned, I'd begin replacing the parts mentioned in the fix above. Especially if this code only began to occur after the spill. There is no risk in replacing the intake manifold gasket, but I'd also do this in conjunction with replacing the valve cover gaskets, grommets and spark plug tube seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
SO after mechanic worked through it the check engine light went way but came back after a day or 2. The code stayed on the ECM though, showing P0507 High Idle " pending ' code. Drove it for a few hundred miles and the check engine light went away again , but the code on the ecm now says ' Current' .
The engine is actually idling normal now, running great .. gas mileage is better than it had been getting over last year.
Just curious how it can say code is ' current' but the problem seems to be gone. warm idles at 675 to 750 ...
Anyone see this before?
thanks
 
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