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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I've decided to replace my PCV due to age. In reading some horror stories about Pilots where the valve breaks off upon removal requiring the valve cover removal due to age/mileage (and the fact that it is plastic), is it worth the risk to save the dealer $50 labor? The replacement process seems so ridiculously simple but the potential pia is unnerving. It's an outdoor life 2012 with 92k.

TIA
 

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While the setup is a bit different, this happened to me while doing the timing belt on my IS300 this spring when I decided it was also time to replace the PCV again. The first time I replaced the PCV (using OEM) was around 90k miles - very easy and straight forward. Fast forward 14 years and 145k miles later (235k miles on the car)... and it snapped in half and the grommet wanted to fall into the valve cover, etc. I was able to get it all our CAREFULLY without having to pull the valve cover (which on this car requires removing the upper intake manifold). It wasn't fun though.

As to if you should try it on the Pilot? I'd think it's LIKELY ok at that range that and hopefully it won't be too brittle. Just be gentle and if it all wants to come apart... great... if not... you're only out a little time and let the dealer do it.
 

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I've changed numerous PCVs in many Honda V6s and other makes and models. I've never had one break off. I honestly find it odd that this is an issue.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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It happens. The Prosecution calls witness #5 to the stand.

Broken PCV Valve Stuck in Engine FIX


If you haven't already, at least read the above thread before proceeding so you have contingencies if it all goes south.

There something to be said for handing over the job to a mechanic and then for 50 bucks it's his problemo. However, do that if you can hang around the work bay (don't pester him too much, though) and watch him do the job in case he develops the sudden urge to sweep a botched job under the rug, so to speak, if no one's watching.
 

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3 weeks ago I decided to "check & clean" our Touring's PCV valve for the first time. We're at 102k miles. I did not know the "risks"! It was stuck tight in the hole, and instead of twisting it I decided to pry it with a flat screwdriver. The Plastic outer flange immediately fractured off and went flying. I guess the long plastic tube and its two O-Rings create a lot of "stiction". Twisting might have been a better idea to break it free! Try that first next time!

Luckily I was able to find the loose pieces including the metal spacer that goes between the plastic flange and the head, and Wife picked up a replacement valve while out shopping.

I used a lil angled metal pick I already had from HarborFreight (orange handles) and first pried out an oily metal tube from the inside middle, and then was able to pry out the remaining portion of the broken plastic outer Tube. All pieces were accounted for. Although I initially thought it was more serious, I found it was not that difficult to extract the pieces. I didn't know some people remove the valve cover! In my case the large plastic tube broke right at the opening so I could angle tools into the plastic inner diameter surface and pry it out. I guess if it broke deeper in the hole it would have been more difficult.

While waiting on the replacement part I wrapped rags around a long screwdriver and cleaned out the hole in the head. I oiled the new o-rings a tiny bit and completed the replacement. Bottom line, Twist plastic and break it loose before trying to pull or pry, and if it breaks and you can still see/reach the inner tube don't freak because you can probably pry it out with a pick....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you everyone for the great responses. Now I will show my limited knowledge, let's say it breaks off, is it safe to drive to the dealer 10 miles away? I'm working on severely sprained wrist and I know removing the valve cover isn't going to happen right now.
 

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Thank you everyone for the great responses. Now I will show my limited knowledge, let's say it breaks off, is it safe to drive to the dealer 10 miles away? I'm working on severely sprained wrist and I know removing the valve cover isn't going to happen right now.
If the outer portion snapped off, the inner workings probably would still function or no worse than it already is.
 

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I should have said if pieces break off and fall inside. TY
If I had this fear, I'd test it gently. You should be able to tell if its going to come out or break. I'd use a 6 point socket.
 

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I should have said if pieces break off and fall inside. TY
I wouldn't drive it with a broken PCV. oil would probably pour out of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
So I completed this today. Below are a few observations.
This is the best how to video I have found by far. PCV Replacement
-First, this job requires virtually no mechanical ability. I should know:)
-With the engine cold, place a plastic bag underneath the valve location (essentially placed around the EGR valve). Reason being the valve is very difficult to get to and upon new replacement when you reinsert the metal bolt guide (this is the piece you reuse form the old valve) into the valve, it will likely fall off since it is not mounted to the valve itself (slides in). It takes a few tries to get it inserted.
-Go VERY slowly with the removal. Once you remove the bolt (mine was actually a bit corroded but easily removed), I started with 1) a gentle hand twist of the valve, 2) flathead screwdriver (placed in the gap between the engine and valve) and gentle twist of the screwdriver, repeat 1 and 2 until the valve pops out. TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't get excited and twist hard with the screwdriver. The valve portion is what is stuck in, so cranking on the piece that holds the bolt will only cause that portion to break off. Take note that the bolt guide mentioned above falls right out of the valve so that is where the bag is helpful.
-The new valve pops right in with no effort.
-I'm average height and needed a stool to dangle my body over the radiator cover to get my hands in there and underneath the harness rail.
-I spent 30 minutes because I went so slow.
-The valve is directly under the stationary metal harness rail the wiring harness clips onto so this process is mostly done by feel. As others have mentioned, if you aren't prepared for it to break, let the mechanic do it for $50. This was one of the least enjoyable tasks due to the location and there was really nothing to it, therefore there was little satisfaction after it was completed.
-At 92k, mine was a cruddy mess with absolutely no movement of the ball inside the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
How do you know if the PCV needs to be changed? My '12 is at 95k miles.
Some say it is a maintenance item every 40k. The longer it stays in the harder to remove because of the washers sticking, of which there are two. It is a $30 part with $50-80 for mechanic labor. At 95k, I imagine yours is eol like mine. Your EGR valve is probably eol as well. That is a $130 part with $80 mechanic labor.
General symptoms...
  1. Check Engine Light.
  2. High Idle RPM/Rough Idle.
  3. Lean/Rich Mixture.
  4. Misfires.
  5. Rough Acceleration.
  6. Increased Oil consumption & Oil leaks.
  7. White/Black/Blue Smoke from the Exhaust
I was looking to correct #5.
 

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I have none of those issues at all. Very low oil consumption actually, still looks clean after a few thousand miles. VCM disabled, spark plugs changed, engine and trans fluid changed. My '03 CRV does though consume some oil. Maybe I need to do this on my CRV.
 

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It's not a hard item to change .. you will do fine
 
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I changed mine somewhere past 100k miles. Uneventful removal, but neither did it make any noticeable change in idle quality, drivability, etc. It wasn't consuming oil. Now at 140k mi, it still isn't, but then again I've had VCM disabled since 60k miles or so.
 
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