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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having tons of free time has me looking for new "projects" to take on. I am realizing that the paint on my car could look better. I am not experienced with detailing or things of that nature, but I'm definitely willing to buy stuff on Amazon and give it a try. I've attached some pictures of the paint and could love some feedback on what I can do to make the paint as smooth and shiny as I can as well as restore some of the small scratches and scuffs. Thank you!
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I suggest watching some YouTube videos before you consider buying product and tools.

For some, a hand-applied "polishing wax" is as far as they want to go. For others, anything short of perfection is failure. The trick is to decide where it's going to stop being fun, and buy accordingly.

Any of the product systems (3M, Meguiar, Griot, etc.) will give an amateur good results if used with a good random orbital (DA) tool and decent pads. If you're willing to take your time to learn, $200 and a few hours will dramatically improve the look of your vehicle and you'll good to go for the future.

There are lots of threads on the forum about getting started with detailing. Those will provide more specifics on who likes which product.
 

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Do you have a dual action orbital or are you doing everything by hand?

My process is as follows:

  1. Wash with Dawn dish soap to remove old coatings and do a better job of removing filth.
  2. Clay bar. Recently I bought a Nanoskin clay mitt but haven't used it yet.
  3. On light colored cars, fallout remover to get rid of the small rust specks that embed in the paint.
  4. Polish with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Griots DA set to mid-level speed and orange pads. This provides a mid-level cut but the cutting particles break down and provide a finishing polish so you don't need to go back with another finishing polish.
  5. Apply Opti-Seal. Let cure at least 12 hours overnight.
  6. Apply Collinite 845.
  7. The wheels and tires get whatever "other" wax and spare tire shine I have to use up old products. Those that use Opti-Seal on their wheels love it though.
  8. The windshield got Aquapel after we bought it, almost 3 years later now and I haven't needed to reapply it. It's been 10 years for the Sonata and it sits outside all day. Use the Rain-X on your shower door, Aquapel is the only thing that should touch your windshield.
  9. Also, when you are ready to do this I would wash the area around the pinstripes, spend a couple hours with goo gone or goof off or something else to get what's left of them off, then immediately wash the whole vehicle to get their residue off.
  10. If you want to go so far as the door jambs I usually use a spray wax on them. Spray on a rag, apply, do all of the door jambs then wipe off.

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2008 Honda Pilot EX-L 2013 Honda Pilot EX-L
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you have a dual action orbital or are you doing everything by hand?

My process is as follows:

  1. Wash with Dawn dish soap to remove old coatings and do a better job of removing filth.
  2. Clay bar. Recently I bought a Nanoskin clay mitt but haven't used it yet.
  3. On light colored cars, fallout remover to get rid of the small rust specks that embed in the paint.
  4. Polish with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Griots DA set to mid-level speed and orange pads. This provides a mid-level cut but the cutting particles break down and provide a finishing polish so you don't need to go back with another finishing polish.
  5. Apply Opti-Seal. Let cure at least 12 hours overnight.
  6. Apply Collinite 845.
  7. The wheels and tires get whatever "other" wax and spare tire shine I have to use up old products. Those that use Opti-Seal on their wheels love it though.
  8. The windshield got Aquapel after we bought it, almost 3 years later now and I haven't needed to reapply it. It's been 10 years for the Sonata and it sits outside all day. Use the Rain-X on your shower door, Aquapel is the only thing that should touch your windshield.
  9. Also, when you are ready to do this I would wash the area around the pinstripes, spend a couple hours with goo gone or goof off or something else to get what's left of them off, then immediately wash the whole vehicle to get their residue off.
  10. If you want to go so far as the door jambs I usually use a spray wax on them. Spray on a rag, apply, do all of the door jambs then wipe off.
View attachment 135182

View attachment 135181
That's a good lookin' Pilot! I'll research these products and start working.
 

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I watch pan the organizer on youtube and get my coatings from autogeek.
I'd also suggest Jimbo for different product torture tests and Apex Detail for testing of many different products.

I usually buy from Autogeek as well, their prices are usually pretty good and they have everything I want in one spot.
 

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Nothing will magically fix clear coat failure which maybe what you have going on in the first picture, however if you want simple, fast, and easy with good results in one box - I swear by the Megs Microfiber Correction System:


You will need a dual action polisher or random orbital sander (I have a Porter Cable) - but what's nice about this system is that it corrects really quickly yet doesn't ever leave you with a "scary" haze that you'll get with some of the regular products when you need moderate correction and have to step down on abrasiveness. Additionally it's setup as either a 1 step as a quick all in one OR a 2 step with a really good amount of correction abilities. Compared to traditional pads / polish, it's just faster and easier to get good results.
 

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I would do a paint correction on that area and if that doesn't fix it there a product call Optimum clear coast restorer. Look it up at that point you ain't gonna make it look worst. Or just have that area resprayed might cost your like $200 depending on your area you live and shops.
 

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I would do a paint correction on that area and if that doesn't fix it there a product call Optimum clear coast restorer. Look it up at that point you ain't gonna make it look worst. Or just have that area resprayed might cost your like $200 depending on your area you live and shops.
 

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Do you have a dual action orbital or are you doing everything by hand?

My process is as follows:

  1. Wash with Dawn dish soap to remove old coatings and do a better job of removing filth.
  2. Clay bar. Recently I bought a Nanoskin clay mitt but haven't used it yet.
  3. On light colored cars, fallout remover to get rid of the small rust specks that embed in the paint.
  4. Polish with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Griots DA set to mid-level speed and orange pads. This provides a mid-level cut but the cutting particles break down and provide a finishing polish so you don't need to go back with another finishing polish.
  5. Apply Opti-Seal. Let cure at least 12 hours overnight.
  6. Apply Collinite 845.
  7. The wheels and tires get whatever "other" wax and spare tire shine I have to use up old products. Those that use Opti-Seal on their wheels love it though.
  8. The windshield got Aquapel after we bought it, almost 3 years later now and I haven't needed to reapply it. It's been 10 years for the Sonata and it sits outside all day. Use the Rain-X on your shower door, Aquapel is the only thing that should touch your windshield.
  9. Also, when you are ready to do this I would wash the area around the pinstripes, spend a couple hours with goo gone or goof off or something else to get what's left of them off, then immediately wash the whole vehicle to get their residue off.
  10. If you want to go so far as the door jambs I usually use a spray wax on them. Spray on a rag, apply, do all of the door jambs then wipe off.
View attachment 135182

View attachment 135181
Man those are very shiny results!
 

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Man those are very shiny results!
It's why I haven't moved on to any of the SiO2 products or Graphene products... my results are too good with what I'm using and the longevity is measured in 6 month intervals AND the application is really not difficult.
 
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I just started using the long term ceramic coatings. Haven't tried the box store ones yet. I use a sealer over them when I get bored. I Like that they have UV protection and offer more protection from bugs (Florida's horrible with them). Autogeek has 25% going in now. Gonna try a tire sealant. Should try to get them as a vendor for permanent 25$ off
 
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