Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first post. Bought my 11 Pilot March of 19 w/ 61k miles and I'm already over 100k. Didn't notice at first but maybe a month or so into owning the vehicle I noticed the infamous "shimmy" while braking. Here in Pennsylvania, we're required to get a yearly safety inspection, which is usually a great way for dealers or shops to make easy money. Every shop I've taken the pilot to kept saying that the pads looked fine. Meanwhile, the shimmy remained and was getting worse until I finally had a buddy w/ a garage help me replace the front pads and rotors last week. Went with akebono pads and Centric GCX coated rotors. When we pulled off the driver side front tire, the rotor was not screwed in tight and would wobble. The pads were still ok and within spec but still put the new ones on along with the new rotors and the shimmy is long gone. Didn't even get to doing the rear pads and rotors. The difference is immense. The whole process took almost 3 hours due to one of the bolts snapping off in the caliper pins and needing new ones. Would highly recommend these pads and rotors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,966 Posts
Are you referring to that small Phillips head screw on the flat mounting surface of the rotor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Glad your wobble is cleared up! Most likely it was the pad deposits that caused the braking vibrations. Those screws only secure the rotor to the hub to make assembling the brakes and installing the wheel easier. Once all 5 lug nuts are torqued, even if the little Phillips screw was loose, the rotor-hub-wheel sandwich would all be flush. If the screw was so far out that the wheel couldn't sit flush to the rotor, you would have had a wobble the entire time you were driving, not just under braking. I just did front pads and rotors to get rid of the brake wobble last week and am so happy to have it gone (for now, LOL). I went with the Raybestos EHT Hybrid pads and rotors. We shall see if they also get the pad deposit shake after a while. Fingers crossed!
 

·
Registered
2011 Pilot EX-L
Joined
·
144 Posts
I've had a really bad luck with Akebono + Centric rotors. None of the pads lived a full service life, shimmy would return after about 10K miles.
Never had the same problem with my Toyota, though (where I first learned to appreciate Akebonos).

Am currently on all Centric (rotors + pads), plus I replaced all 4 calipers now and SS hoses all around, braking is smooth as butter, will see how that goes. So far, the car lasted the longest on original Honda pads and rotors, even though they are crap that leaves discs covered in brake dust all the times, but at least, brakes didn't begin to shimmy until after about 50K.

PS: those screws are just for assembly purpose, and some even claim that they can screw up the rotor balance and recommend not installing them at all. Lug nuts is what holds the rotor in place (they are torqued to ~94 ft-lbf whereas those tiny screws are torqued to ~7 ft-lbf) and you're supposed to check your rotor runout with a dial gauge while having all lug nuts torqued to spec.
 

·
Registered
2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
Joined
·
2,063 Posts
And I basically never change the rotors, unless look really worn, yeah, I know there's a thickness spec too!
I do change out the pads.
I DO BED them in when new too.
Lots of wasted money being spent IMHO.

As said- your wheel holds the rotors on, not that little screw.
Have you seen the links to the 'warped rotor myth'?

I never have a brake 'shimmy'

* Now watch- Murpheys Law- I'll have one on the way home from work today! LOL
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top