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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car ran fine yesterday after I finished the valve job. I find it hard to believe, but possible, that it has nothing to do with my work yesterday. It says on sensory bank 2 running lean, or malfunctioning. It's running fine. I also checked this site and no threads with p2272. I haven't checked yet for bad or sensor. Thanks in advance.
 

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P2272 Possible Causes
  • Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2
  • Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 harness is open or shorted
  • Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 circuit poor electrical connection
  • Exhaust gas leaks
Just wonder if an improperly adjusted exhaust valve can equal an exhaust leak? Hopefully it's just the bottom sensor on the front cat.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
P2272 Possible Causes
  • Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2
  • Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 harness is open or shorted
  • Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 circuit poor electrical connection
  • Exhaust gas leaks
Just wonder if an improperly adjusted exhaust valve can equal an exhaust leak? Hopefully it's just the bottom sensor on the front cat.
View attachment 152738
I thought it could be something left unplugged or not secured, but I didn't think about the exhaust valve. I guess buying a new o2 sensor is easier then pulling valve again.
Anyone know a way to check the o2 sensor and/or confirm valve exhaust? I don't want to waste the money if not needed. I am also going to try clearing the code and see if it comes back after it's now warmed up. It happened within the first 5 minutes of driving from a cold star
Ty, it seems that there a few things I can check before pulling the cover and relashing. Btw, I also had that stupid check gas cap yesterday. Before the valves, it would pop up once, I would hit the speedometer thingy and then I would go away. Usually until I restarted, but mainly after I refilled or when it got low. But yesterday it kept coming back while driving. Maybe it's happened like that 1 or 2 times, but this time it was definitely more frequent. I am going to try cleaning and lubing the cap. Somewhere in one of things that I looked up said it could be the evap. It also said that was a possible issue with the check fuel cap.
Of those things in the video, I didn't do anything with the exhaust, I don't think I touched the fuel injectors other then maybe leaning on the rail or pulling a wired connection somewhere. I did mess with the maf I left the part with the coolant hoses attached, but removed the air box and unbolted the intake manifold and I had the plug disconnected. I will recheck for any plugs not connected or any hoses loose or not connect. I tried connecting my obd scanner and looking at the live data from bank 1 and 2, but I have no idea what I am looking at, beside being color blind and not know which color was which.
 

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Have you ever cleaned the MAF?
A dirty MAF can cause fuel/air mixture problems.
Simply unplug/remove (2 screws), using CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner, spray a few short bursts directly into the visable electrodes to remove dust particles. Let dry completely before re-installing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have you ever cleaned the MAF?
A dirty MAF can cause fuel/air mixture problems.
Simply unplug/remove (2 screws), using CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner, spray a few short bursts directly into the visable electrodes to remove dust particles. Let dry completely before re-installing.
I dont have crc cleaner, so no. It is of course on my list and if I had some I would have done it while I was adjusting the valves. I have to go out later I am getting the crc and whatever grease/lube was recommended for the gas cap.
 

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I dont have crc cleaner, so no. It is of course on my list and if I had some I would have done it while I was adjusting the valves. I have to go out later I am getting the crc and whatever grease/lube was recommended for the gas cap.
When the vehicle is at warm idle, around 750-800 rpms, a clean MAF will read below 1. Might check your MAF reading before cleaning, just to see where it's at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When the vehicle is at warm idle, around 750-800 rpms, a clean MAF will read below 1. Might check your MAF reading before cleaning, just to see where it's at.
I can try, I am not as good with the full abilities of my scanner. Anything more then checking for and clearing codes. I will look at that one tho and see if I can make it a go. Ty
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I am not sure I am doing it correctly. But at idle when scanning live data for the maf, it shows about 5g per sec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nail,
I went to buy crc cleaner. Realized crc was the brand. Also they have many items, one was called mass air flow sensor cleaner and the other throttle body cleaner, or something. On the can, they both show the throttle body and show similar claims in terms of expectations. I bought maf, but can they be used to do both jobs, or is it necessary to get both. I noticed the more dirt in the intake manifold, some in the throttle body. I didn't check maf at the time, I was trying to make sure I fixed 1 problem without adding another. Hoped I could circle back to it later. I am not thinking I should have done it all at once. Maybe I moved some gunk around and it's what's throwing the code. It does feel a little sluggish. It's hard to tell, after just buying the car, then using the s-vcm, and doing the atf, and changing the oil and having those brake issues and me being ocd. It's hard to figure what to expect.

I get what I pay for, just trying to triage as much as I can.
 

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Nail,
I went to buy crc cleaner. Realized crc was the brand. Also they have many items, one was called mass air flow sensor cleaner and the other throttle body cleaner, or something. On the can, they both show the throttle body and show similar claims in terms of expectations. I bought maf, but can they be used to do both jobs, or is it necessary to get both. I noticed the more dirt in the intake manifold, some in the throttle body. I didn't check maf at the time, I was trying to make sure I fixed 1 problem without adding another. Hoped I could circle back to it later. I am not thinking I should have done it all at once. Maybe I moved some gunk around and it's what's throwing the code. It does feel a little sluggish. It's hard to tell, after just buying the car, then using the s-vcm, and doing the atf, and changing the oil and having those brake issues and me being ocd. It's hard to figure what to expect.

I get what I pay for, just trying to triage as much as I can.
I've used CRC MAF Cleaner or CRC Electronic Cleaner to clean the MAF. (Throttle Body Cleaner not good for MAF) These dry quickly and are oil free. Don't want to use anything on the MAF that can leave a residue. The can of MAF Cleaner I bought the first time, I used it cleaning other parts. I started buying the Electronic Cleaner because of the better price at Wal-Mart.
I'd buy throttle body Cleaner for throttle body. Sorry
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes I knew maf cleaner only on the maf (wasn't dirty btw look as clean before as it did after but did it anyway) I was hoping to ba able to use maf on other things. I know from pervious advice NO BRAKE Cleaner anywhere but the brakes. Trying to locate the bank 2 sensor 2. I see one but not the other, not sure which one I see, I think it's 2-1. Seems like everyone is looking for 1-1 1-2 and 2-1, but not mine. I will find it. My car is cooling off anyway, not gonna grab skin seizing parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If it is, then I think this is the area ( plug and sensor) I spilled atf on. I noticed it up top, and cleaned it some, but again pushed that to after I fixed valves and of course didn't total the engine.
 

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If you determine that the sensor below the front catalytic converter needs replacing, I'd only use NTK or Denso. I tried Bosh one time in an emergency and it didn't last long. Had to replace again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I buy bosch tools, mainly because a friend works for bosch and I get refurbished stuff for a 3rd of the cost. None have failed me yet. He gets regular refurbished stuff anytime, but they have clearance refurbished stuff 2 x a year, before father's day and before Christmas.

I have not had luck with anything else bosch. I here the dishwashers are good. Putting germanish parts on a kinds Japanese car doesn't fell right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Any weight to the premise that if you replace one, you replace 2, or for that matter all 4?
 

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I buy bosch tools, mainly because a friend works for bosch and I get refurbished stuff for a 3rd of the cost. None have failed me yet. He gets regular refurbished stuff anytime, but they have clearance refurbished stuff 2 x a year, before father's day and before Christmas.

I have not had luck with anything else bosch. I here the dishwashers are good. Putting germanish parts on a kinds Japanese car doesn't fell right.
For all things Honda, for some reason, Bosch and Honda don't exactly get along. I have Bosch in my BMW and Hyundai with no issues.
¯\(ツ)
 
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