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OK, these aftermarket headlights are starting to tick me off!...

3661 Views 47 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  aggrex
No, not a certain product or set of headlights....

These ^&%&% people that somehow think their OEM headlights are still not bright enough, and/or the people that drive around with their brights on ALL THE TIME!

This is getting out of hand! Too bad they can't get pulled over and the brightness tested!

What about the OEM lights with the cap that keeps the beam on the road,
NOT illuminating the International Space station?

EVERYTIME I feel blinded by others lights, I flip on my high beams!
Sometimes, they dim theirs. Sometimes, they flip on theirs and My God, are the illuminating an entire NFL stadium?

The OEM lights on our 08 Pilot SE, and out 15 Pilot LX are just fine!

If you are one of those that think, 'Oh no, I've got to have aftermarket headlights'?
Have you tried driving on a flat 2 land road- looking at YOUR vehicle!

'Cause most of the people doing this have NO regards for the drivers coming at them!

Clean your &^))( glasses! Or get new ones! Quit trying to illuminate the entire state your driving in!

OK, rant over, flame suit on.
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Ha, I noticed that white cars tend to attract that certain kind of driver. Driving in left lane at same speed as right lane, blocking everyone; forgetting to turn off turn signal after lane shifting (or even better, forgetting their left blinker on and shifting to the right), or drifting into neighboring lanes... in most cases, it is a white car.
I suppose I shouldn't show you a picture of my ride since the Pilot is my wife's... below was just before I signed the paperwork.

Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle
 

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Pilot is factory LED for headlight and fog light. When new the foglights were not doing much to help and I was getting flashed. My drivers side headlight was aimed too high and fogs way low. Don't presume it is correct from factory. I actually have in my "stuff", bubble levels that came with aftermarket Hella fog lights and instructions. Basically it was to make sure level ground with a wall/door 25ft away. Measure the top of cutoff height at the vehicle, go to wall and mark that height but subtract 2". If you frequently load the rear (or tow) adjust lower to account for that. Some cars have load leveling or headlight adjusting systems to do that also.

All my bulb replacements get checked. I posted from my daughters CRV LED bulb change in reflector. I've been installing fog and driving lights and swapping headlights for about 45 years. I remember dad and myself buying Hella and Cibie H4 and H1 high and low beams from Europe when US was on incandescent sealed beam.

The DOT lighting regulations have been way behind other countries forever. I got a ticket once in the Adirondack's at almost midnight (lat 1980's). I hadn't see a car for over 30 minutes and you always saw lighting in trees coming opposite if anyone was on the road. State Trooper was parked in a small area at bottom of a hill. His reflective glowed as soon as I crested the hill, I shut high beams off. He gave me a ticket for dazzling/glaring/blinding lights. Judge tossed the ticket when he saw where and when. The state regulations at that time still listed headlight power somewhere in the less than one hundred candlepower from like the 50's and never was changed. Article from 2018 where it covered the 32 candlepower

That nice cutoff pattern everyone has now was on my parents '75 Ford LTD, my '75 VW Scirocco and every vehicle since then. All with extra fog and driving aimed correct. If I get flashed which happens very rarely and normally at stop light with "hills", I'll give a quick tap to show I'm on low. I also know those intersections and don't flash others at that spot.

Most of my cars always had extra fog and driving light installed. The fog are always relayed in with parking lights (and a switch to turn off) driving lights are always relayed in with the high beams (and a switch to turn off). I also don't use the auto headlight or auto high beam. When driving rural mountain roads in winter it makes a huge difference. I had once where even the fog lights were blinding me due to snow (they were the fog pattern but white). Car had the "cornering" light that turned on by blinker, hazard activated also. I was driving real slow guiding by snow bank with parking lights and cornering lights until I could get to a safe place to pull off the road.

And my Daughter has a white CRV :).
 

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Pilot is factory LED for headlight and fog light. When new the foglights were not doing much to help and I was getting flashed. My drivers side headlight was aimed too high and fogs way low. Don't presume it is correct from factory. I actually have in my "stuff", bubble levels that came with aftermarket Hella fog lights and instructions. Basically it was to make sure level ground with a wall/door 25ft away. Measure the top of cutoff height at the vehicle, go to wall and mark that height but subtract 2". If you frequently load the rear (or tow) adjust lower to account for that. Some cars have load leveling or headlight adjusting systems to do that also.

All my bulb replacements get checked. I posted from my daughters CRV LED bulb change in reflector. I've been installing fog and driving lights and swapping headlights for about 45 years. I remember dad and myself buying Hella and Cibie H4 and H1 high and low beams from Europe when US was on incandescent sealed beam.

The DOT lighting regulations have been way behind other countries forever. I got a ticket once in the Adirondack's at almost midnight (lat 1980's). I hadn't see a car for over 30 minutes and you always saw lighting in trees coming opposite if anyone was on the road. State Trooper was parked in a small area at bottom of a hill. His reflective glowed as soon as I crested the hill, I shut high beams off. He gave me a ticket for dazzling/glaring/blinding lights. Judge tossed the ticket when he saw where and when. The state regulations at that time still listed headlight power somewhere in the less than one hundred candlepower from like the 50's and never was changed. Article from 2018 where it covered the 32 candlepower

That nice cutoff pattern everyone has now was on my parents '75 Ford LTD, my '75 VW Scirocco and every vehicle since then. All with extra fog and driving aimed correct. If I get flashed which happens very rarely and normally at stop light with "hills", I'll give a quick tap to show I'm on low. I also know those intersections and don't flash others at that spot.

Most of my cars always had extra fog and driving light installed. The fog are always relayed in with parking lights (and a switch to turn off) driving lights are always relayed in with the high beams (and a switch to turn off). I also don't use the auto headlight or auto high beam. When driving rural mountain roads in winter it makes a huge difference. I had once where even the fog lights were blinding me due to snow (they were the fog pattern but white). Car had the "cornering" light that turned on by blinker, hazard activated also. I was driving real slow guiding by snow bank with parking lights and cornering lights until I could get to a safe place to pull off the road.

And my Daughter has a white CRV :).
Proper aiming cannot be stressed enough. Same with your point about the factory aiming being terrible. I witness it all the time and with how bright modern headlights can be having them aimed poorly is very dangerous. What's the old Spider Man adage... more power means more responsibility... I think dealers should be responsible for checking and adjusting the aim as part of the pre-sale process.
 
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I thought that was part of the new car make ready process?
Every dealer I have seen spends more time putting on their stickers and license plate frames then going through the vehicles to ensure they are ready for sale.
 
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I recall way back when shops had the aiming machine and I think it was also part of the state inspection. I think now the PDI consists of overinflating the tires, removing plastic paint and seat protection and adding swirls to the paint when cleaned, and the stickers and plate frames.

I believe it does actually get checked for any software updates etc and any potential recalls that might affect it.
 
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