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2011 Pilot EX 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New here and reading about specific preferences a lot of folks have about the oil (engine and trans) and filter preferred.

If you are not rolling up on ramps and changing engine or trans oil yourself, do you find that independent service shops are able provide the products you want?

Obviously better control if you DIY.

I don’t know whether a shop would allow you to bring you own oil/filter instead of shop product?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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I bring my own fluids and parts all the time. Occasionally, a place will tack on an extra ten bucks to their hourly rate, and for parts they tell you they can't guarantee the work if they don't use their own parts, which is reasonable.


But I always stay and watch, you know, trust but verify, and I think I come out ahead knowing my parts are good and seeing the work being done. Once, the guy was putting on his own oil filter instead of the one I brought, but I'm pretty sure it was out of force of habit.
No need to be like the Spanish Inquisition
146606
, and you should give the guys some space and keep the chatter to a small talk minimum unless otherwise necessary or solicited, and I've never had anything but a positive experience.


On the other hand, if you don't do it right I can understand places like this. :D

146607
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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New here and reading about specific preferences a lot of folks have about the oil (engine and trans) and filter preferred.

If you are not rolling up on ramps and changing engine or trans oil yourself, do you find that independent service shops are able provide the products you want?

Obviously better control if you DIY.

I don’t know whether a shop would allow you to bring you own oil/filter instead of shop product?
I DIY my own, I don't use ramps. NO, I don't have a 'lift kit' on mine either.
I do understand that some people don't have the area where they would feel comfortable DIY'ing. I'm glad I do and always have. Even we I was a teenager and we always lived in apartments.
 

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2008 Honda Pilot EX-L 2013 Honda Pilot EX-L
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Just want to give a different perspective when it comes to bringing your own parts/fluids to a mechanic--

If they are resistant or flat out refuse to use your supplied parts, its not because they're shady or want to rip you off.
They make money by charging for labor and adding to the cost of parts. (Again...not trying to rip you off)
Mechanics usually order most of their parts from one source. They typically know what is good and what is bad.
IF you bring your own parts, they can't guarantee the labor or the replacement of the part.

The best solution for someone who doesn't want to DIY everything (ME!!) is to build a relationship with a good independent mechanic. That way you won't have to worry if you're being ripped off. Sure they may mess up or make mistakes some times. But they will stand by their work and maybe even give you some free advice if you do try to DIY something.

Standing over a mechanic while they do their job is a good way to become that customer.
 

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Standing over a mechanic while they do their job is a good way to become that customer.
Unless you've become such a good customer that the invite ya out there to chat... :)


New here and reading about specific preferences a lot of folks have about the oil (engine and trans) and filter preferred.

If you are not rolling up on ramps and changing engine or trans oil yourself, do you find that independent service shops are able provide the products you want?

Obviously better control if you DIY.

I don’t know whether a shop would allow you to bring you own oil/filter instead of shop product?
Frankly on a Honda Pilot:

1) Make sure the trans is Honda DW-1 or Valvoline MaxLife. There are other good options but both of these should be simple enough to source. If you're desperate the dealer can handle this with the Honda fluid. Note that some people don't feel the Honda DW-1 is the highest quality fluid... and it's probably not, but change it a bit earlier than the Honda recommended schedule and you should be fine. Otherwise Valvoline is probably preferred.

2) If you have 4wd ONLY use the Honda fluid for the rear diff, again the Honda dealer will use this if you just want to keep shop selection simple.

3) I wouldn't worry a ton about the engine oil. Just make sure it's changed on time with synthetic and the correct spec'd oil. I think we tend to put too much weight in what oil goes into the car. I personally use whatever synthetic oil is on sale and use a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter. If you're changing the oil on schedule "the absolute best" is likely not to matter a ton. You can use cheap non-synthetic and probably get 250k+ miles on the engine and the car will probably be totaled out, sold for something different, rusted out, interior destroyed, or something long before the engine dies from an oil related failure. AKA on this topic - I just wouldn't stress about it too much. Also if you choose to DIY, you don't have to jack it up or anything. You can just reach under the car and get to everything you need - it's really easy compared to many.

4) Not mentioned very often, but don't forget about the brake fluid. Honda calls for that to be changed every 3 years. My BMW calls for it to be changed every 2. It's actually a really good idea to keep up with it as well as the fluid ages and can cause damage to brake components as it absorbs moisture.

5) Obviously keep up with the timing belt 7 years OR 100k miles is a good plan. Replace water pump, coolant, and ESPECIALLY the tensioner at the same time. The timing belt tensioner is a weak point of these engines.
 

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2011 Pilot EX 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I DIY my own, I don't use ramps. NO, I don't have a 'lift kit' on mine either.
I do understand that some people don't have the area where they would feel comfortable DIY'ing. I'm glad I do and always have. Even we I was a teenager and we always lived in apartments.
I use to do the same with past vehicles (not Pilot) and I enjoyed doing it.

The one thing that has precluded me from doing it now is the disposal of materials after the changes. It does take some time and effort to package up the waste and take it the back of the car to the disposal site.

In my market, indy shops as well as the dealers have become competitive and always have a inexpensive special on OLF change (“synthetic” slightly higher). Although no brand choice which is important.

DIY is piece of mind and satisfaction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
But I always stay and watch, you know, trust but verify, and I think I come out ahead knowing my parts are good and seeing the work being done.
Lol. Right there with you on this.

As it was once famously said-

“......,,,trust with verification”
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just want to give a different perspective when it comes to bringing your own parts/fluids to a mechanic--

If they are resistant or flat out refuse to use your supplied parts, its not because they're shady or want to rip you off.
They make money by charging for labor and adding to the cost of parts. (Again...not trying to rip you off)
Mechanics usually order most of their parts from one source. They typically know what is good and what is bad.
IF you bring your own parts, they can't guarantee the labor or the replacement of the part.

The best solution for someone who doesn't want to DIY everything (ME!!) is to build a relationship with a good independent mechanic. That way you won't have to worry if you're being ripped off. Sure they may mess up or make mistakes some times. But they will stand by their work and maybe even give you some free advice if you do try to DIY something.

Standing over a mechanic while they do their job is a good way to become that customer.
Agreed....great points, healthy balance, and perspective. Thanks!
 

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2011 Pilot EX 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Frankly on a Honda Pilot:

1) Make sure the trans is Honda DW-1 or Valvoline MaxLife. There are other good options but both of these should be simple enough to source. If you're desperate the dealer can handle this with the Honda fluid. Note that some people don't feel the Honda DW-1 is the highest quality fluid... and it's probably not, but change it a bit earlier than the Honda recommended schedule and you should be fine. Otherwise Valvoline is probably preferred.

2) If you have 4wd ONLY use the Honda fluid for the rear diff, again the Honda dealer will use this if you just want to keep shop selection simple.

3) I wouldn't worry a ton about the engine oil. Just make sure it's changed on time with synthetic and the correct spec'd oil. I think we tend to put too much weight in what oil goes into the car. I personally use whatever synthetic oil is on sale and use a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter. If you're changing the oil on schedule "the absolute best" is likely not to matter a ton. You can use cheap non-synthetic and probably get 250k+ miles on the engine and the car will probably be totaled out, sold for something different, rusted out, interior destroyed, or something long before the engine dies from an oil related failure. AKA on this topic - I just wouldn't stress about it too much. Also if you choose to DIY, you don't have to jack it up or anything. You can just reach under the car and get to everything you need - it's really easy compared to many.

4) Not mentioned very often, but don't forget about the brake fluid. Honda calls for that to be changed every 3 years. My BMW calls for it to be changed every 2. It's actually a really good idea to keep up with it as well as the fluid ages and can cause damage to brake components as it absorbs moisture.

5) Obviously keep up with the timing belt 7 years OR 100k miles is a good plan. Replace water pump, coolant, and ESPECIALLY the tensioner at the same time. The timing belt tensioner is a weak point of these engines.
Unless you've become such a good customer that the invite ya out there to chat... :)

In my area, the shop will keep you out of service bay area for liability reasons.


Frankly on a Honda Pilot:

1) Make sure the trans is Honda DW-1 or Valvoline MaxLife. There are other good options but both of these should be simple enough to source. If you're desperate the dealer can handle this with the Honda fluid. Note that some people don't feel the Honda DW-1 is the highest quality fluid... and it's probably not, but change it a bit earlier than the Honda recommended schedule and you should be fine. Otherwise Valvoline is probably preferred.

I did a trans oil change recently but now will go back in the record to see if they indicate oil spec.


2) If you have 4wd ONLY use the Honda fluid for the rear diff, again the Honda dealer will use this if you just want to keep shop selection simple.

3) I wouldn't worry a ton about the engine oil. Just make sure it's changed on time with synthetic and the correct spec'd oil. I think we tend to put too much weight in what oil goes into the car. I personally use whatever synthetic oil is on sale and use a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter. If you're changing the oil on schedule "the absolute best" is likely not to matter a ton. You can use cheap non-synthetic and probably get 250k+ miles on the engine and the car will probably be totaled out, sold for something different, rusted out, interior destroyed, or something long before the engine dies from an oil related failure. AKA on this topic - I just wouldn't stress about it too much. Also if you choose to DIY, you don't have to jack it up or anything. You can just reach under the car and get to everything you need - it's really easy compared to many.

Agreed. At 156k I am still using the Honda spec 5-20 dino oil. I was told by dealer that transition to synthetic did not happen til mid year 2011 for pilot.

4) Not mentioned very often, but don't forget about the brake fluid. Honda calls for that to be changed every 3 years. My BMW calls for it to be changed every 2. It's actually a really good idea to keep up with it as well as the fluid ages and can cause damage to brake components as it absorbs moisture.

Good point. I’ll check last service on brake fluid.



5) Obviously keep up with the timing belt 7 years OR 100k miles is a good plan. Replace water pump, coolant, and ESPECIALLY the tensioner at the same time. The timing belt tensioner is a weak point of these engines.
Did timing belt kit and water pump at a little over 100k.

Unless you've become such a good customer that the invite ya out there to chat... :)




Frankly on a Honda Pilot:

1) Make sure the trans is Honda DW-1 or Valvoline MaxLife. There are other good options but both of these should be simple enough to source. If you're desperate the dealer can handle this with the Honda fluid. Note that some people don't feel the Honda DW-1 is the highest quality fluid... and it's probably not, but change it a bit earlier than the Honda recommended schedule and you should be fine. Otherwise Valvoline is probably preferred.

2) If you have 4wd ONLY use the Honda fluid for the rear diff, again the Honda dealer will use this if you just want to keep shop selection simple.

3) I wouldn't worry a ton about the engine oil. Just make sure it's changed on time with synthetic and the correct spec'd oil. I think we tend to put too much weight in what oil goes into the car. I personally use whatever synthetic oil is on sale and use a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter. If you're changing the oil on schedule "the absolute best" is likely not to matter a ton. You can use cheap non-synthetic and probably get 250k+ miles on the engine and the car will probably be totaled out, sold for something different, rusted out, interior destroyed, or something long before the engine dies from an oil related failure. AKA on this topic - I just wouldn't stress about it too much. Also if you choose to DIY, you don't have to jack it up or anything. You can just reach under the car and get to everything you need - it's really easy compared to many.

4) Not mentioned very often, but don't forget about the brake fluid. Honda calls for that to be changed every 3 years. My BMW calls for it to be changed every 2. It's actually a really good idea to keep up with it as well as the fluid ages and can cause damage to brake components as it absorbs moisture.

5) Obviously keep up with the timing belt 7 years OR 100k miles is a good plan. Replace water pump, coolant, and ESPECIALLY the tensioner at the same time. The timing belt tensioner is a weak point of these engines.
 

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2011 Pilot EX 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Unless you've become such a good customer that the invite ya out there to chat... :)




Frankly on a Honda Pilot:

1) Make sure the trans is Honda DW-1 or Valvoline MaxLife. There are other good options but both of these should be simple enough to source. If you're desperate the dealer can handle this with the Honda fluid. Note that some people don't feel the Honda DW-1 is the highest quality fluid... and it's probably not, but change it a bit earlier than the Honda recommended schedule and you should be fine. Otherwise Valvoline is probably preferred.

2) If you have 4wd ONLY use the Honda fluid for the rear diff, again the Honda dealer will use this if you just want to keep shop selection simple.

3) I wouldn't worry a ton about the engine oil. Just make sure it's changed on time with synthetic and the correct spec'd oil. I think we tend to put too much weight in what oil goes into the car. I personally use whatever synthetic oil is on sale and use a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter. If you're changing the oil on schedule "the absolute best" is likely not to matter a ton. You can use cheap non-synthetic and probably get 250k+ miles on the engine and the car will probably be totaled out, sold for something different, rusted out, interior destroyed, or something long before the engine dies from an oil related failure. AKA on this topic - I just wouldn't stress about it too much. Also if you choose to DIY, you don't have to jack it up or anything. You can just reach under the car and get to everything you need - it's really easy compared to many.

4) Not mentioned very often, but don't forget about the brake fluid. Honda calls for that to be changed every 3 years. My BMW calls for it to be changed every 2. It's actually a really good idea to keep up with it as well as the fluid ages and can cause damage to brake components as it absorbs moisture.

5) Obviously keep up with the timing belt 7 years OR 100k miles is a good plan. Replace water pump, coolant, and ESPECIALLY the tensioner at the same time. The timing belt tensioner is a weak point of these engines.
Point 1 - I had trans oil changed but not sure of oil spec used. Now I will check if was indicated on invoice.

Point 2 - vehicle is fwd.

Point 3 - At 156k I am still using 5w-20 Dino for changes. The dealer had told me that was Honda spec for and early 2011 model. They told me that mid 2011 they started to spec synthetic. I historically and presently have not experienced having to add oil between changes.

Point 4 - Great mention. Have not paid attention to brake fluid changes. I will now.

Point 5 - Agreed very important. I changed out belt/tensioner/water pump at a little over 100k.

Thanks for the great points!!
 

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I don’t know whether a shop would allow you to bring you own oil/filter instead of shop product?
How many restaurants do you frequent or even know of that will let you bring in your own food for them to cook?

Businesses exist for a reason.
 

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I have a close neighbor who runs his own auto shop. He's one of the best mechanics I've ever seen and getting ready to pass on the business to his son (who used to cut my lawn). He's a rare find and I trust him completely, so I make a point of not telling him what oil/filter to use, etc. I go through him for all maintenance parts, but when he installed the ATF cooler I obviously ordered that myself. He was perfectly fine with it, especially with accessories, as it saves him the trouble ordering/paying/shipping, etc.
 

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Point 1 - I had trans oil changed but not sure of oil spec used. Now I will check if was indicated on invoice.

Point 2 - vehicle is fwd.

Point 3 - At 156k I am still using 5w-20 Dino for changes. The dealer had told me that was Honda spec for and early 2011 model. They told me that mid 2011 they started to spec synthetic. I historically and presently have not experienced having to add oil between changes.

Point 4 - Great mention. Have not paid attention to brake fluid changes. I will now.

Point 5 - Agreed very important. I changed out belt/tensioner/water pump at a little over 100k.

Thanks for the great points!!
Sounds like you're in pretty good shape. Really if what you've been doing has been working for 156k miles and not burning oil, I don't think I'd feel the need to change anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How many restaurants do you frequent or even know of that will let you bring in your own food for them to cook?

Businesses exist for a reason.
How many restaurants do you frequent or even know of that will let you bring in your own food for them to cook?

Businesses exist for a reason.
Lol Good point....

maybe shop could charge a “corkage fee” fee for bring your own oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sounds like you're in pretty good shape. Really if what you've been doing has been working for 156k miles and not burning oil, I don't think I'd feel the need to change anything.
I think awareness and hearing others experiences here is great. That’s why I came here.

We all drive, maintain, and have different environments in which our pilots exits.

A one size fits all fits all mentality could be detrimental and cause unnecesssry expense.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Lol. Right there with you on this.

As it was once famously said-

“......,,,trust with verification”



4) Yes, because brake fluid is hygroscopic.

5) And the water pump, which why you should avoid the Gates and go with the Aisin timing belt kit.
 
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