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Edited my post :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:
I totally agree with you, how tight some of the drain plugs and filters have been on vehicles is almost criminal. Lug nuts too.

Get yourself one of the fumoto valves, makes oil changes as simple as moving a metal lever to open the valve.
 

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Thank you.
I appreciate it. I'll pick up some this week.

I hate....
(Edited to add)
.... when the drain plug is over tightened. Whatever kid the dealership pays to do oil changes just grips and rips.

Actually the real reason is sliding my fat ass under the Pilot (no I don't jack it up) isn't as easy at it used to be and when it's too tight its annoying.
 

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Although the thread sealer is a bit overkill on drain plugs with crush washers if you need to use it I would be very conservative on the amount applied. Any excess will be circulating around in the oil/fluid system it is used in.
 

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Only time I look at a crush washer is before I reuse them. Good side towards the pan.....LOL :whistle:
If you look at yr washer the edge of the shiny side is somewhat bevel and the Matt side edge is flat. Matt face the pan. That’s how yr Honda was when I got it new.
 

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For the engine oil the official Honda service manuals says the flat side goes against the pan and the rounded side the bolt. However as long as it isn’t leaking it probably doesn’t really matter.
 

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I use some Permatex ultra black sealant - just a small bead between the lip on the drain bolt and the crush washer.

It basically forms a rubberized gasket between the plug and pan, one that easily peels off at every oil change. It takes about an extra 30 sec to apply the bead and the $6-7 for the entire tube is well worth the peace of mind knowing my Pilot with 321,000+ miles isn't going to leak at the plug.

FYI, I do all my own fluid changes on 4 vehicles (1 Pilot, 2 Subarus, and a Chevy truck) and haven't used an entire tube in 2 years...

 

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I use some Permatex ultra black sealant - just a small bead between the lip on the drain bolt and the crush washer.

It basically forms a rubberized gasket between the plug and pan, one that easily peels off at every oil change. It takes about an extra 30 sec to apply the bead and the $6-7 for the entire tube is well worth the peace of mind knowing my Pilot with 321,000+ miles isn't going to leak at the plug.

FYI, I do all my own fluid changes on 4 vehicles (1 Pilot, 2 Subarus, and a Chevy truck) and haven't used an entire tube in 2 years...

I have 2 tubes of that sitting around from differential fluid changes on my jeep.

Good stuff.

(y)

What are the chances the dealer goes into panic mode when they see it on there?

Also for those that don't re-use the crush washer, where do you buy them in bulk?

I went to the dealer, they charged me almost $8 for the genuine Honda oil filter and crush washer.

Thanks
 

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Fumoto oil valves for me on all our vehicles. Once you use one you'll never mess with drain bolt washers again, imo……..
Fumoto valves makes oil drains super ez but my OCD would kick in with the amount of oil left in the pan by design. Plus depending upon the application losing ground clearance or exposure to road debris was a concern for my truck or jeep. Bought a bag of crush washers off Amazon that should last a few years.
 

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I have 2 tubes of that sitting around from differential fluid changes on my jeep.

Good stuff.

(y)

What are the chances the dealer goes into panic mode when they see it on there?

Also for those that don't re-use the crush washer, where do you buy them in bulk?

I went to the dealer, they charged me almost $8 for the genuine Honda oil filter and crush washer.

Thanks
Either Amazon or Ebay, I got the crush washer for each size drain and fill plug on the Pilot.

Fumoto valves makes oil drains super ez but my OCD would kick in with the amount of oil left in the pan by design. Plus depending upon the application losing ground clearance or exposure to road debris was a concern for my truck or jeep. Bought a bag of crush washers off Amazon that should last a few years.
They have a "newer" design that I really like. I jack the car up so the drain valve is at the low point, at that point it's good enough.

The Pilot and Traverse both have the drain plug on the side of the pan, reducing the amount of oil that would be left in the pan. Also, this makes the ground clearance a nonissue since the oil pan protects the drain valve. I don't install them on vehicles with drain plugs sticking straight down.
 

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Either Amazon or Ebay, I got the crush washer for each size drain and fill plug on the Pilot.


They have a "newer" design that I really like. I jack the car up so the drain valve is at the low point, at that point it's good enough.

The Pilot and Traverse both have the drain plug on the side of the pan, reducing the amount of oil that would be left in the pan. Also, this makes the ground clearance a nonissue since the oil pan protects the drain valve. I don't install them on vehicles with drain plugs sticking straight down.
Im sure you're busy but do you mind taking and sharing a photo of the valve on the pilot?
Thanks
 

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Im sure you're busy but do you mind taking and sharing a photo of the valve on the pilot?
Thanks
I just did an oil change on the Traverse last night... so mess free I could almost weep...

If I remember when I get home I'll crawl under the Pilot and snap a picture.
 

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This topic reminds me of a poll I posted. Go ahead and vote!

 

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This topic reminds me of a poll I posted. Go ahead and vote!

No shame. You just get off plugging your old junk don't ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
You guys rock!
 
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