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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fam, went on a beautiful vacation this past weekend. Had an excellent time up in Maine, went to the ocean, got lobster of course, and drank some good local beers. Had a blast, this was our first full family vacation. Our baby is only 10 months. Ok ok enough with that.
Tire Wheel Car Automotive side marker light Vehicle

Got back and just gave the pilot a good cleaning. While I was out there decided to check the oil, and noticed I was roughly 1 quart low. So round trip was probably around 1100 miles maybe more. Most of it straight highway cruising, like cruising lol. Love the pilot so much so far. We were doing a good 80-90 for long long stretches at a time. Handled it very well. Slight shake every once in awhile which I'll go over at a later date. So with that being said.

Timing belt, oil change, quick inspection of everything else was done before we left. Found the oil leak behind oil filter base, which the gasket is on order. So with that in consideration, just to get a little clarification, I think that amount of oil is about normal consumption. Given the leak and the type of driving we did.

Another note I'm used to driving our subarus, which if you know. Loooooove to drink oil so to me it seems fine. Just want to get someone else's head on this and ether agree with me or tell me to look at other causes.

Thanks for reading hahahah
 

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2008 Honda Pilot EX-L 2013 Honda Pilot EX-L
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It could have already been a little low.
I’d fix the leak and monitor. Some consumption seems to be normal. I really wouldn’t worry about it.
 

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It's possible you were not on level ground when checked.....that's very important in getting an accurate/consistent oil level reading.
 

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Have you disabled the VCM system? VCM will turn off 3 cylinders during easy cruise situations, and has been known to cause oil to bypass the rings on the inactive cylinders. VCM disabling devices are readily available. I use the S-VCM, it works well, simple to install.
 

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Your 2nd gen is know to have oil consumption at an abnormal rate. It's not ok. This will lead to a host of problems..., fouled spark plugs, dirty injectors, valves and stuck piston rings. This will eventually cause emission codes and the need for catalytic converter replacement. Disabling the VCM solved my oil consumption problem. I use S-VCM.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do have the vcm disable. I have the vcm muzzle 2 on it. I forgot to add that to my original post. I did that the weekend before I did the timing belt. Eco light never came on since I installed it. Used my obd2 scanner to verify coolant temps. I'll keep a closer eye on it. I want to do spark plugs in the near future. I'll stick my camera down in each cylinder to see what they look like in there.
 

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Different generation, but my 07 has consumed oil since day 1. I'm not entirely sure as to the rate, but I have added most of a quart as make-up oil since my last oil change about 2700 miles ago. Trying high mileage oil, 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30 made no apparent difference for me.
 

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I do have the vcm disable. I have the vcm muzzle 2 on it. I forgot to add that to my original post. I did that the weekend before I did the timing belt. Eco light never came on since I installed it. Used my obd2 scanner to verify coolant temps. I'll keep a closer eye on it. I want to do spark plugs in the near future. I'll stick my camera down in each cylinder to see what they look like in there.
Sounds like you recently installed the VCM Muzzler. It might help for you to change oil more frequently, using a full synthetic, to make sure that the oil control rings are cleaned out. A couple of 3k mile service intervals while using full synthetic won't cost that much, and could help to free up the rings if they are gummed up by the years of VCM action.
 

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I do have the vcm disable. I have the vcm muzzle 2 on it. I forgot to add that to my original post. I did that the weekend before I did the timing belt. Eco light never came on since I installed it. Used my obd2 scanner to verify coolant temps. I'll keep a closer eye on it. I want to do spark plugs in the near future. I'll stick my camera down in each cylinder to see what they look like in there.
Very good on the VCM disabling! That's one problem solved.
Has the PCV valve been replaced? This can cause excessive crankcase pressure that causes oil loss.
Some full synthetic oils are better against others with thermal breakdown. I'd avoid any Extended Performance oil or semi blends.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
3k is usually what I do in most conventional oil changes, so not a huge difference to me to do it on this vehicle. Would anyone recommend doing a seafoam oil treatment to help free things up? I did it with my subaru, in the oil and the gas to help alleviate a a fuel ping I was having and it helped.

Also not sure on pcv, so I'll go ahead and replace it. I'm assuming they are cheap like all other pcvs.

Last oil change I used valvoline full synthetic. I thought I remembered seeing people like that in these engines... I know not to get into an oil discussion but I don't buy none brand oil.

Thanks
 

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3k is usually what I do in most conventional oil changes, so not a huge difference to me to do it on this vehicle. Would anyone recommend doing a seafoam oil treatment to help free things up? I did it with my subaru, in the oil and the gas to help alleviate a a fuel ping I was having and it helped.

Also not sure on pcv, so I'll go ahead and replace it. I'm assuming they are cheap like all other pcvs.

Last oil change I used valvoline full synthetic. I thought I remembered seeing people like that in these engines... I know not to get into an oil discussion but I don't buy none brand oil.

Thanks
Better to use a full-synthetic motor oil.
Follow the maintenance minder for oil life/changes.
If you don't want to go the full distance of the oil change interval shown by the MM, then do an extra oil change when the oil life reaches 50% - but don't reset the MM.
When the oil life gets to 5%, or less, do the regularly scheduled oil change, along with whatever other maintenance is indicated, and then reset the MM.

As far as discussions here are concerned: politics - no; religion - no; motor oil - go right ahead.
We haven't had an oil discussion thread yet this week.
Might as well beat that dead horse a few more times just to make sure it stays dead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hahah I appreciate the permission to have the dreaded oil convo but I'll gladly pass lol. I am using full synthetic in the pilot. My other vehicles i use Dino oil. Not the first Honda in the family with the MM so I'm familiar with how that system works. Good idea on the 50% oil life, wouldn't of thought that myself I would've just went ahead and reset it.
 

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Better to use a full-synthetic motor oil.
Follow the maintenance minder for oil life/changes.
If you don't want to go the full distance of the oil change interval shown by the MM, then do an extra oil change when the oil life reaches 50% - but don't reset the MM.
When the oil life gets to 5%, or less, do the regularly scheduled oil change, along with whatever other maintenance is indicated, and then reset the MM.

As far as discussions here are concerned: politics - no; religion - no; motor oil - go right ahead.
We haven't had an oil discussion thread yet this week.
Might as well beat that dead horse a few more times just to make sure it stays dead.
This is good advice--just do an extra oil change at 50%, but don't reset the Maintainance Minder. And use any high quality full synthetic oil that you like. I use Mobil One because Costco will regularly put it on sale. I wouldn't get too worried about the apparent oil use on your Maine trip, just keep an eye on the oil level, do the more frequent services, and give it some time. Consumption may ease up now that you have disabled the VCM.

And for a good oil discussion, just hop over to Bob Is The Oil Guy. You can get into fights with Amzoil and Royal Purple freaks if you really want to over there.
 

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3k is usually what I do in most conventional oil changes, so not a huge difference to me to do it on this vehicle. Would anyone recommend doing a seafoam oil treatment to help free things up? I did it with my subaru, in the oil and the gas to help alleviate a a fuel ping I was having and it helped.

Also not sure on pcv, so I'll go ahead and replace it. I'm assuming they are cheap like all other pcvs.

Last oil change I used valvoline full synthetic. I thought I remembered seeing people like that in these engines... I know not to get into an oil discussion but I don't buy none brand oil.

Thanks
If the PCV has never been replaced, changing it can make a difference.
I got nothing bad to say about Valvoline full synthetic oil. Used it for years. Went to Mobil 1 EP until I saw this video...
Went to regular Mobil 1 until I saw this...
Again, just trying to find the best oil that doesn't end up in my cats. Shell Rotella Gas Truck has been difficult to find at a reasonable price. Looks like I'll be going to Mobil 1 Truck and SUV.
151163
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the heads up, typically for me I go for a name brand oil that has a good sale at advanced auto. Usually if you buy oil and filter you can get it cheaper. But I never use those filters like I stated earlier. BTW I love project farm videos.
 

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Deciding on a "best" synthetic for normal driving use is an exercise in futility. While there may be a "worst", reality is that the one you change on schedule to keep it clean, and so long as you maintain the level in the sump and don't overheat or contaminate it, -any- of the name-brand oils will do just fine for normal road use. Like Nail Grease, I definitely avoid any of them that have 'high mileage' or the like as claims. These too often have additives intended to soften and swell seals and gaskets, maybe to try and solve oil leak issues in antique cars or something. Modern oil seal materials mean there's usually more 'suffer' than 'solve' from these additives.

I've used Mobil 1 for decades, mostly because it's readily available for less than $5/qt in the 5 qt jugs at Wal-Mart. Prior to that, I used Valvoline Racing Oil in air-cooled (really oil-cooled) cars because I could get a straight 40- or 50wt that would survive weekend track duty. No more cross-purpose air-cooled cars left, so no more worries about maintaining oil pressure at extreme oil temps. Meanwhile, a previous SUV needed the heads off due to a coolant (Dexcool) issue with head gaskets, and at 125k the M1-lubricated engine internals looked literally brand new. Let the flames begin...
 

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Deciding on a "best" synthetic for normal driving use is an exercise in futility. While there may be a "worst", reality is that the one you change on schedule to keep it clean, and so long as you maintain the level in the sump and don't overheat or contaminate it, -any- of the name-brand oils will do just fine for normal road use. Like Nail Grease, I definitely avoid any of them that have 'high mileage' or the like as claims. These too often have additives intended to soften and swell seals and gaskets, maybe to try and solve oil leak issues in antique cars or something. Modern oil seal materials mean there's usually more 'suffer' than 'solve' from these additives.

I've used Mobil 1 for decades, mostly because it's readily available for less than $5/qt in the 5 qt jugs at Wal-Mart. Prior to that, I used Valvoline Racing Oil in air-cooled (really oil-cooled) cars because I could get a straight 40- or 50wt that would survive weekend track duty. No more cross-purpose air-cooled cars left, so no more worries about maintaining oil pressure at extreme oil temps. Meanwhile, a previous SUV needed the heads off due to a coolant (Dexcool) issue with head gaskets, and at 125k the M1-lubricated engine internals looked literally brand new. Let the flames begin...
Oh come on @dr bob , we all know you buy M1 because of it's easy pour 5qt jug. 😃👍
 
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It seems to me, that my Gen 1- 08 FWD Pilot uses LESS oil now that it has the SVCM installed. Even after installing it at over 185k miles too! LOL
 

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It seems to me, that my Gen 1- 08 FWD Pilot uses LESS oil now that it has the SVCM installed. Even after installing it at over 185k miles too! LOL
I had similar results in my Crosstour with over 200k. Oil consumption down. S-VCM + getting on top of the maintenance that helped fuel air mixture, it's actually doing better on fuel economy now. Guess it finally burned off all the oil deposits. New EGR valve helped a lot too. Kick myself for not replacing that sooner.
 
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