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2016 EXL AWD Nav with sensing , 2008 Corolla SE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just changed my oil and filter after 5000 miles and it was really black and had a nasty smell. The maintenance minder said it was only at 50% and there was no way I was waiting any longer to change it. I use Wix XP filters and Mobil1 synthetic but it is possible that the previous owner did not change it on a regular basis and there was excess sludge in the engine. What is the condition of your oil when you change it?
 

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Not knowing previous maintenance history, and type oil used. I would change the oil, not reset the MM, continue on another 3k or 4k miles till the MM hits 5% and see what condition you have then. Full synthetic oil tends to get black, because it suspends the sludge particles with in the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Full synthetic oil tends to get black, because it suspends the sludge particles with in the oil.
I could see the suspended particles in the oil when I poured it out of my drain tray. I will be changing it again after 3-4k and hopefully it will not be as bad.
 

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If previous owner was using the quick lube, they likely were getting a cheap synthetic blend with a $2 filter. You come along and use good stuff, detergent oil and cleaned it all out. It should clear up after a couple of changes.
 

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I usually run to about 5% on the MM and my third oil change was right at 19k miles. It seems like the MM gave me extra miles this last change as my first two were just over 6k miles.

My local dealer charges around $50 for the full synthetic oil change and Honda filter.

Unless I buy the Costco oil or find it on sale its hard to justify doing it myself.

Maybe I'm just lazy. :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It had a honda oil filter on it and showed 100% on the oil life when I purchased it but you never really know until you change it yourself. I did change it after 1000 miles and I remember the oil seemed pretty black considering it still showed 100%. This last change was 5k later so I am thinking that the previous owner had just reset it and not changed the oil and just polished the filter to make it look new. The engine runs well and does not use any oil so hopefully all this crap will be flushed out.
 

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Only way to really know how "bad" the oil was is to send a sample to have it analyzed. Color is NOT a true indication of how contaminated the oil is, or what the internal engine condition is.

Polish the oil filter to make it look like it had been changed? Who on Craigslist did you buy from?????
 

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My oil is pretty dark after 5,000 miles. I change it every 5k because it’s cheap and easy. I use Mobil1 High mileage full synthetic and wix filter. Usually get a rebate so my next oil change is cheaper.
 

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So... We actually change the OIL in these things ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Polish the oil filter to make it look like it had been changed? Who on Craigslist did you buy from?????
The car was purchased used from a Honda dealer with about 50k miles on it.
I suspected that they had just reset the MM instead of actually changing the fluid. When I changed the oil after another 1000 miles it seemed too dark to me for such low mileage and I suspected it then. Really hard to prove though.
 

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I change oil every 5000 miles. I use only synthetic Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum on occasion. I am using FRAM Tough Guard filters. The oil has always been charcoal black at each oil change but it is still very thin and flows well, so it should not be a problem. My car just had an oil change at 20,000 miles.

When engine oil gets darker, it can indicate a) high heat, b) contaminants, or c) the presence of additives that cause the oil to darken during normal use. Also, direct injection engines produce soot which is very small in size and gets into the oil. Supposedly, because of the size soot does not produce extra wear in the engine. They do have oil test kits that you can use to see what is going on with your engine.

 

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I’ve sworn off using Fram filters of any kind after watching the youtube oil filter cut open comparisons.
Go check the BITOG forums. The new top spec Fram filters (Tough Guard and Ultra) are actually quite good. Not the same old garbage the old $3 ones used to be.
 

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I’ve sworn off using Fram filters of any kind after watching the youtube oil filter cut open comparisons.
Go check the BITOG forums. The new top spec Fram filters (Tough Guard and Ultra) are actually quite good. Not the same old garbage the old $3 ones used to be.
Being brand loyal for decades, the orange Fram filter was always under the hood. When they could have made a better filter they didn't. I left Fram before they started to step up their game with their new improved.
The Mobil 1 Extended Performance Filter is, IMO, the best oil filter you can buy. But its a bit overkill if your only going 5k-7.5k miles. I'm testing a German made Hengst filter on a Nissan NV to see if it can keep my oil clean for 7.5k miles. Otherwise I'll be sticking to high priced Mobil 1 EP filters.
 

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Being brand loyal for decades, the orange Fram filter was always under the hood.
A couple of decades ago, when I was doing the oil changes on an Audi, I always used the "orange can of death" oil filter.
The engine was still running fine when I traded in the car at about 150K miles.
Back then, the oil change interval was every 3K miles - or about 6 weeks for me - and I used whichever name brand conventional oil was on sale the weekend I was doing the service.

When I switched to an Acura, I bought the oil filters at the dealer.
At that time, I believe the filters were still being sourced from Japan.
 

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A couple of decades ago, when I was doing the oil changes on an Audi, I always used the "orange can of death" oil filter.
The engine was still running fine when I traded in the car at about 150K miles.
Back then, the oil change interval was every 3K miles - or about 6 weeks for me - and I used whichever name brand conventional oil was on sale the weekend I was doing the service.

When I switched to an Acura, I bought the oil filters at the dealer.
At that time, I believe the filters were still being sourced from Japan.
I never felt compelled to buy any dealer maintanance item. Where I failed was letting our drivers go to the quick lube where they would pay $75 for a supposed Full Synthetic oil change, which likely was synthetic blend and then had the generic no name "white can of death" screwed on.
Saving thousands a year now and getting a way better oil change than the dealer or any quick lube will do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Being brand loyal for decades, the orange Fram filter was always under the hood. When they could have made a better filter they didn't. I left Fram before they started to step up their game with their new improved.
The Mobil 1 Extended Performance Filter is, IMO, the best oil filter you can buy. But its a bit overkill if your only going 5k-7.5k miles. I'm testing a German made Hengst filter on a Nissan NV to see if it can keep my oil clean for 7.5k miles. Otherwise I'll be sticking to high priced Mobil 1 EP filters.
I still remember those old Fram ads when they said "you can pay me now or you can pay me later". Was loyal to them back then but cringe now when I see one of those orange cans on an engine. It is getting really tough to find a filter made in North America anymore. I do know that the Wix 57356 filter is still made in the USA but their XP extended performance version is made in Mexico. I think that the Mobil filters are made by Bosch in Germany and they are a quality filter too.
 

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I'm pretty sure that the Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter is made by Champion Laboratories. They also have their own oil filters. A cheap version and the XL version. I bought an XL version that would fit our Honda's, but I was very disappointed when I got them because they were about an inch or so shorter.
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