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I want another key for my 09 Pilot. The stealership wants $65 for the key and $95 for cutting and programming. The key (even the valet key) supposedly has a chip in it. I can get a key off ebay for $37, is there anyone else that can program it for less?

I did a search for “key” and this subject oddly did not come up.
 

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2 good reason Honda needs to do it:

1. Most people don't have the time, money or desire to make a CNC program to cut your "one off" key on a 3-D mini-mill.

2. You need the Honda HDS tablet to get your ECU to recognize the immobilizer chip. Some locksmiths have them, but very doubtful they can cut the key.

Assuming you order the key online (Driver 1 is about $20, Driver 2 is about $13 plus shipping), if you can get 1 and 2 done, then programming the buttons to work is pretty simple and can be done by you. I used to turn Accord keys into keys that work for the TSX so we didn't have to carry those fobs w/ keys.

2009 Touring Driver 1: 35118-SZA-A10
2009 Touring Driver 2: 35118-SZA-A20
 

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moda_way said:
2 good reason Honda needs to do it:

1. Most people don't have the time, money or desire to make a CNC program to cut your "one off" key on a 3-D mini-mill.

2. You need the Honda HDS tablet to get your ECU to recognize the immobilizer chip. Some locksmiths have them, but very doubtful they can cut the key.

Assuming you order the key online (Driver 1 is about $20, Driver 2 is about $13 plus shipping), if you can get 1 and 2 done, then programming the buttons to work is pretty simple and can be done by you. I used to turn Accord keys into keys that work for the TSX so we didn't have to carry those fobs w/ keys.

2009 Touring Driver 1: 35118-SZA-A10
2009 Touring Driver 2: 35118-SZA-A20
I’m curious about the Driver 1 vs Driver 2 thing. What’s that about? How do I know which one I need?

I’ve seen at least a few different car manufactures with mill style keys. I would think it would be enough of this sorts of keys around to warrant a locksmith to by a machine that would cut them. Would it really have to be cnc? I could just be a follower type as use on most traditionally keys? That’s another topic though.

What happens when you get and aftermarket alarm system with remote start? Isn’t the chip recognition deactivated? If so, I’d rather pay $250 for than than $120 for just a key.
 

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metoo said:


I’m curious about the Driver 1 vs Driver 2 thing. What’s that about? How do I know which one I need?

I’ve seen at least a few different car manufactures with mill style keys. I would think it would be enough of this sorts of keys around to warrant a locksmith to by a machine that would cut them. Would it really have to be cnc? I could just be a follower type as use on most traditionally keys? That’s another topic though.

What happens when you get and aftermarket alarm system with remote start? Isn’t the chip recognition deactivated? If so, I’d rather pay $250 for than than $120 for just a key.
1. Driver 1 vs Driver 2. It has to do with the memory settings for the vehicle. Basically the key transmit whether it is to use the Driver 1 or 2 settings... if you have that.

2. No, the key doesn't have to be CNC'd, but if you aren't going to go through the dealership, the basis of your original question, hardware stores cannot cut our types of keys. Maybe a locksmith does, which is what I suggested you do.... ask them.

3. The OEM immobilizer is a 3 part system and no, an alarm doesn't disable it. It is by-passed for the auto start functionality, but I believe once you unlock the car/open a door, the car shuts off or after a user set period of time. You can't simply just jump in and go on an autostart feature. Some fools figure out that they can place their chip inside the steering column next to the immobilizer ring and then they never have to worry about. Problem is, then anyone can steal the car now, so pretty stupid
Part 1: Immobilizer ring - it sits around the key cylinder and is plug in to communicate with the ECU
Part 2: The ECU - the ECU is passed the unique immobilizer chip code and validates it with the stored codes to allow the motor to be started. This interface prevents theft if someone manages to get a copy of your key.
Part 3: The immobilizer chip - it is housed inside the body of the transmitter portion of the key. The chip is like a small rectangle with one of the corners knocked off. It is read by the immobilizer ring and validated by the ECU.

The only way to get your ECU to recognize that chip in order to start the car is to have a HDS tablet program it in. As I mentioned before, you can program the transmitter buttons yourself, but that doesn't get your vehicle to start nor does it accomplish getting the key cut either. Some locksmiths have bought the very expensive HDS tablet, so I'm willing to bet they invested in a way to cut the keys too, but I've not seen it personally.

I do know of an emergency procedure on my TSX (haven't learned it for the Pilot) to start the car in the event the immobilizer unit fails, but it is extremely complicated and you need to know a few codes that must be retrieved from Honda/Acura.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
moda_way said:


1. Driver 1 vs Driver 2. It has to do with the memory settings ........

2. No, the key doesn't have to be CNC'd, ......

3. The OEM immobilizer is a 3 part system and no, an alarm doesn't disable it. It is by-passed for the auto start functionality, .......

Thanks moda. One more question. I do not have a Touring, so there are not 3 driver settings. That being the case, do I just get the Driver 1 key that you mentioned? For what it is worth (just in case the Touring key looks different) my key looks like this.

 

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metoo said:



Thanks moda. One more question. I do not have a Touring, so there are not 3 driver settings. That being the case, do I just get the Driver 1 key that you mentioned? For what it is worth (just in case the Touring key looks different) my key looks like this.
What model do you have and I'll get you the right part numbers.
 

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You need 35118-SZA-A00

I found it San Leandro Honda for $33 plus shipping and Majestic Honda for $28 plus shipping and handling.

Now you can call your local locksmith's and see if they are able to cut and program the key... again, they would have to have a HDS tablet to do it. I can look-up the programming instructions for the key buttons, don't remember if they are on the PDI document posted here or not, but it is very simple to do.

Alright, they haven't changed the procedure.

Storing transmitter codes
The codes of up to three transmitters can be read into the keyless receiver unit memory. (If a fourth code is stored, the code which was input first will be erased.)

NOTE: It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors, hood and tailgate are closed.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Within 1 to 4 sec , press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit by the right kick panel.
3. Within 1 to 4 sec , turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Within 1 to 4 sec , turn the ignition switch ON (II).
5. Within 1 to 4 sec , press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit by the right kick panel.
6. Within 1 to 4 sec , turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Within 4 sec , turn the ignition switch ON (II).
8. Within 1 to 4 sec , press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit by the right kick panel.
9. Within 1 to 4 sec , turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Within 4 sec , turn the ignition switch ON (II).
11. Within 1 to 4 sec , press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit by the right kick panel.
12. Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 sec , press the transmitter lock or unlock button again.
13. Within 10 sec , aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the keyless receiver unit, and press the transmitter lock or unlock buttons. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and pull out the key.
15. Confirm proper operation with the new code(s).
 

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Hi - I just replacement keys for my 2005 Honda Pilot .. at first I was going to go the DIY route and ordered 2 "button" keys on-line for $30. each ... 10 minutes later I realized I didnt want to go through the headache of begging locksmiths to cut keys to save $20.00 so I cancelled my ebay order and went to the local locksmith downtown the next day. They had the keys, cutting machine and tablet to do the whole job ... they were the experts and the first 3 keys they cut didnt work in the ignition ... I went home and got my valet key which was like new .. luckily it had the original key code on a plastic tab on the key ring and it was so much easier to cut to that than copying my worn key.

Turned out the locksmith key cutting machine required re-calibrating ... no charge to me for the three keys the locksmith wasted. He then cut a valet key blank (doesnt start the car) to make sure the key was correct .. it was and he gave me that as a freebee. I asked for 2 imobilizer keys without the buttons - wholesale they are 13.50 each .. the locksmith charged me $25.00 each. programming was $85.00 for (4) keys ... the 2 new ones I was buying and the old button key and valet key I had .. by the way my valet key did not work beforehand. I now have 4 keys that start the car and one valet blank that opens it ... I can hide a key in the car and put the flat valet blank in my wallet for the next time I lose my keys on a dog walk - I've doen it 4 times.

Locksmith shared that even though my car was a 2005 it must have been made at the end of the production year becuase it needed a H003-PT key blank which is for a 2006- 2009 Pilot.

If you want to save money .. dont get the button key - just request a transponder chip key ... it saves about $30.00 per key. Ordering key and waiting for them to arrive ... you have that key cut ... becuase you have to turn it to find out if its programable . .if its not ... throw them away and start at step one ... I could of easily went through $100.00 worth of keys before getting to step 2 ... everyone is going to charge you $80-100 to program them .. and yes I saw the OBDstar X100 you can buy for $300.00 to program yourself ... after watching the locksmith work for 90 minutes to make my keys ... it doent look like a business I'd enjoy. I hope this helps someone on the fence about how to proceed. LEt the locksmith do the work and use the extra time to get out and walk the dog.
 
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