Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. So this is now annoying. I've got a vibration and noise. Like rumble strips. Started a few weeks ago but is now worse. I did services to diagnose and my mechanic who balanced my wheels said "you have a noise in your rear end". I went home, grabbed the VTM 4 and did a drain and fill. Fluid came out new, nothing on the magnet, waste of fluid as it was way early. Not diff. Then I decided I better do transfer case. Again fluid was fine but now at least its full synthetic and I had it. Next I did atf drain and fill with VML and drove then did again. All of this over about 2 2
5 weeks. Each service made it quieter but then it got loud again. So, today driving home from work I did some testing. Now I need help to do more narrowing down.

Leaving office got up to speed to make noise happen. Shifted into neutral and no change. Not transmission. Also not the heat shields as noise happens at 50-20 20-50 at any engine rpm.

I have vcm dissabled not that.
So it has to be drive shafts, axles or bearings. I can feel it in the steering wheel slightly, in the seat too a little on the floor. I can replicate it consistantly. What else can I do to narrow down? I hate just throwing parts at possible issues.
How do I figure out if its drive line or axles or bearings?
Thanks

Maritime
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,519 Posts
Ok. So this is now annoying. I've got a vibration and noise. Like rumble strips. Started a few weeks ago but is now worse. I did services to diagnose and my mechanic who balanced my wheels said "you have a noise in your rear end". I went home, grabbed the VTM 4 and did a drain and fill. Fluid came out new, nothing on the magnet, waste of fluid as it was way early. Not diff. Then I decided I better do transfer case. Again fluid was fine but now at least its full synthetic and I had it. Next I did atf drain and fill with VML and drove then did again. All of this over about 2 2
5 weeks. Each service made it quieter but then it got loud again. So, today driving home from work I did some testing. Now I need help to do more narrowing down.

Leaving office got up to speed to make noise happen. Shifted into neutral and no change. Not transmission. Also not the heat shields as noise happens at 50-20 20-50 at any engine rpm.

I have vcm dissabled not that.
So it has to be drive shafts, axles or bearings. I can feel it in the steering wheel slightly, in the seat too a little on the floor. I can replicate it consistantly. What else can I do to narrow down? I hate just throwing parts at possible issues.
How do I figure out if its drive line or axles or bearings?
Thanks

Maritime
Does the rumble change in pitch with speed? If so it's a bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, it goes from a growly rumble to a higher pitch till it stops above 50 mph. Now if a bearing which one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, so on the ride to work today I had the radio off and was listening intently, the growl was growing again and seemed to not just be one area when it dawned on me. I haven't taken it back to the shop to re-torque my wheels. Been just about the 50 miles too. :D:mad:(I'm the shop) so I pulled over right away and sure enough I found lose lugs on 3 out of 4 wheels and one wheel had 2 I could turn with my fingers. Snugged them all up with the factory wrench for now and will re-torque tonight in the garage. Noise is still there but way reduced and seems to be near the back. I will sit in the 3rd row and get my wife to drive it on the weekend and see if I can narrow down. I'm thinking one or both rear wheel bearings may be starting to go. If they are, what do folks reccomend for a replacement. Rockauto has way to much choise LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,519 Posts
Riding in the back is a great idea. A wheel bearing should be easy to pinpoint. Hopefully it's not the u-joints or carrier bearing in the propeller shaft, if the sound is from under the vehicle.
What's the milage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
196k KM = 117K Miles With all the loose wheels the noise was crazy but now it seems to be more outward and more to one side so hoping a wheel bearing, Those are an easy swap. They have SKF on Rockauto for $107 delivered CAD so that isn't terrible. Need to check Carquest to see what they have and price too. Going to the DMV to get my son his permit today, going to offer to let him drive home may need a whole new car LOL.

Just glad this mornings drive did turn into a Kenny Rogers song "you picked a fine time to leave me........."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,519 Posts
Glad it's a wheel bearing and not something else. But I wouldn't let this influence me into buying a new car lol.
I've used Timkin, SKF. I'd stay away from WJB. I'd buy local if I could unless the price was just ridiculous, hopefully I could get a lifetime warranty.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Maritime

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks. I buy stuff for a living and when I was an MRO buyer I used to trust SKF on the big machines. Agreed on local but so far Napa want 2.5X the SKF for their store brand. I need to call Carquest at lunch and ask them as they don't have a website to check. They are still working on it. They have been good last few times though. After a drive in the back I will know if its a wheel or the drive shaft area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SKF Carquest = $170 and not in stock so $63 less from RA and that is too big a difference to stay local. Oh well. If I need one or 2 will be RA again. Now if border was open I'd save another 20 on shipping too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I will also perform these:

Shake Test: Identifying Play or Looseness
  1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground
  2. Place your hands on the sides of the tire and try to shake the wheel
  3. Now place your hands on the top and bottom of the tire and try to shake the wheel again
  4. If you feel movement in both directions, you have play in your bearing and it needs to be replaced
  5. Note: If you feel movement when shaking the wheel left to right, but not top to bottom, you could have a worn out tie rod end. Similarly, if you have movement top to bottom, but not left to right, you may have a worn out ball joint.
Spin Test: Identifying Noise or Grinding
  1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground and can spin freely
  2. Spin the wheel, in either direction, and listen for a grinding or howling noise
  3. If you hear a loud grinding or howling noise, that increases with the speed of the wheel, you have a failed bearing that needs to be replaced
  4. Note: It is best to test both front or both rear bearings at the same time so you can compare the difference between the two sides. If you have a failed bearing, there will be a noticeable difference in the amount of noise you hear during this test

and last but not least. What is the axle nut socket size, I bet I don't have the right one. Edit 36mm and I actually may have that or at least a buddy does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,519 Posts
SKF Carquest = $170 and not in stock so $63 less from RA and that is too big a difference to stay local. Oh well. If I need one or 2 will be RA again. Now if border was open I'd save another 20 on shipping too.
That's a ridiculous price at CQ! Have they not heard of competition? Lol
I dont mind paying more for convenience but that's just crazy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Maritime

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's a ridiculous price at CQ! Have they not heard of competition? Lol
I dont mind paying more for convenience but that's just crazy.
I know, I deal with that all the time here. Although Advance and O'Reilly in Maine are the same after exchange so RA is the place. No one lists a lifetime part either, the best is 3 Yr.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
One thing that may make a difference in diagnosis is the sound is louder under light acceleration than hard. If I give it the beans it is a lot harder to hear but that could just be the revs of the motor etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,519 Posts
Oh and I just realized I under torqued my wheels. I used the CR-V 80 Flb and Pilot is 90 Flb!
I just tighten until they say uncle. If they say moma, your tightening to much. 😁
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just tighten until they say uncle. If they say moma, your tightening to much. 😁
Ha, my steel wheels I just impact till it stops then give it one more. Alloys I tend to torque with the wrench. I forgot the Pilot was a higher torque than the CRV and other cars I've owned with alloys. I probably could just impact them till it stops LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well shit. The DMV was empty so got home with lunch time to spare so I jacked up the back end and the wheels are 0 slop whacking tires with a sledge and 0 play. That's not a good sign, I am really thinking it's drive shaft related now. All wheels were at or over 90 f-lbs when I checked them so no more loose lugs. I will do the front wheels after work and see but the sounds is rear biased and getting louder. It's the worst when around 35-40 and you let off the throttle. Hard throttle almost makes it go away and shifting to neutral changes nothing. I coast down a hill and as I get faster it gets louder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,519 Posts
well shit. The DMV was empty so got home with lunch time to spare so I jacked up the back end and the wheels are 0 slop whacking tires with a sledge and 0 play. That's not a good sign, I am really thinking it's drive shaft related now. All wheels were at or over 90 f-lbs when I checked them so no more loose lugs. I will do the front wheels after work and see but the sounds is rear biased and getting louder. It's the worst when around 35-40 and you let off the throttle. Hard throttle almost makes it go away and shifting to neutral changes nothing. I coast down a hill and as I get faster it gets louder.
And Honda wants you to replace the whole shaft for $750. This is a generation off but intresting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks, My local dealer found out the Honda ATV U-Joint repair kits fit the CRV which is the same deal, replace the whole shaft only on the auto side. I wonder is the Pilot is also the same???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've watched that dude before, I like him, he's a regular figure it out kind of shade tree guy. Now to investigate U-Joints. I think I will put the girl on my ramps and stands and get under and check them tonight.
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top