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Front Console Heat Problem Solved!

I found this awesome thread last night and I'm glad I took the time to read all the way through it. I had the exact same issue with my 05 Pilot, back heat console was fine, on the front: AC fine, blowing air fine but no heat at all. Read through the thread last night and the this morning went out, popped the hood, found the valve and screw on top mentioned in the later posts, tightened it and the heat is restored! The screw was a bit hard to get at but thanks to all of the folks that posted here with descriptions and also photos, I was able to apply this simple solution and the issue is fixed. I was only able to get 3/4 of a turn to tighten the screw but the heat came right back and was blasting hot air out the front console once again. I would say that remember to have your heat set to cold before tightening the screw as this may avoid some of the issues the other posters had that were not able to adjust the heat down after tightening. Thanks to the original thread poster and all of the other contributors, gotta love these threads!
 

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I know this is a very old thread, but I have a similar issue right now and wondering if you can clarify.

When I go from A/C to Heat, I see the lever move and pull the metal line that leads to the firewall. So that's functioning. I don't see this magical screw. Where can I find that? And if I see the lever moving, is tightening the screw going to help?
 

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Arm is moving, no heat in front

Hi.

I watched the arm and cable move as we went from hot to cold. Will tightening the screw help this issue?

Thanks. Getting cold in NJ, and don't want to get robbed by the dealership.
 

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Heat is sorta working now...help!

Last night, in the 15F degree wind I opened up the hood and found the arm on the console again and gave it a push. I pushed it about 1/4 of a turn, then it pushed back automatically.

Went in the car and it wasn't blowing heat yet.

I went back to the arm and pushed it further (180 degrees) and it stayed stuck open. Went in the car and it was blowing warm air.

I pulled it back a little and unstuck it and it worked.

I cycled cold > hot > cold > hot, and it didn't get hot again.

My diagnosis is that its getting stuck on the cold position.

I plan to WD40 the screw on top today to see if it allows it to move easier.

Lastly, I couldn't screw/unscrew the phillips head screw. It was very rusted, and I think its filled in with rust, so my driver head couldn't get in and grab the screw. I may try to wire brush it as well to see if i can clean it out and tighten/loosen it.

Any suggestions, based off all this would be greatly appreciated.

Greg
 

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The cable is attached to the arm, therefore the arm will turn. The problem is that the arm needs to turn the valve underneath it. Tightening the screw connects the two.
 

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Thanks 75blazer.

I had the damnest time moving that screw. I tried all different size heads. Even so WD40. Finally found some spray that removes rust. That helped a little. It only seems to turn about 10% in each direction.
Seems like its really stuck or something. Worried I'll need to replace the entire unit.
 

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Very Rusted and hard to get to.. Under the Tube.. sprayed some wd-40 and chipped away at the rust and was able to turn it about 1/4 turn and VOILA heat is really hot...
this is after the mecanic changed the thermostat and wanted to change the Heater Core but I said wait a minute.. checked this site and fix it myself.

will change the valve this summer by clamping the tubes with Vise-grips ...
thought I should share and thanks
Manny in Ottawa Feb 2016 , Pilot 2006
 

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I'm having the same issue in my 2004 honda pilot, it has 230000+ miles on it and it just started doing this. I replaced the thermostat and that solved my engine overheating problem, but after reading this thread, I'm going to try this simple screw solution and let y'all know how it worked!

btw i know this thread is super duper old but wow you can find anything on this website for solving Pilot problems!
 

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THANK YOU !!! Mine also ! 2 minute fix!!!

I cannot believe it - fixed in 2 minutes - no lock washers or sprocket washers on this tiny screw??
I have been putting up with comments from the kids, my mom, and the wife for 3 years...
I had the system flushed - helped a little - maybe -
I put blankets into the back seat ... I searched online several times -
I Was about to take it in for a new heater core - went looking 1 more time - then saw this.
Thank you so much for posting the solution - I suspect most Honda Pilots will have this problem some time.
I have photos - I will post them on Facebook - Look for me, Dave Lechner.
Thanks again !!
Dave
 

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So our 2016 pilot is having similar symptoms. Not sure if the screw on the valve you are talking about is still the same in the new pilot. The dealership we took it too claims to have checked that everything is working as normal, there was some air pockets in the ducts that they bled out. I will be taking it back again as it is still not getting the heat like it should
 

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Air pockets that they bled out???
 

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yeah I don't get it either. that's how they explained the possible problem. they checked for air in the cooling system and bled that out. we live in a climate where the temp reaches -35, we need heat.
 

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I have a 2013 honda pilot touring and when its cold the "automatic controls" (Speech, Navigation system and the automatic button) are useless. You have to manually get the environment controls engaged. I wen to the honda dealer and they could not find any faults either. I thinks its some think with the module that controls this event. Will keep you posted of results
 

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My problem is only very hot air comes out of my vents. My mechanic says the Air/Mix Blend door actuator needs replaced. 325$ for just the part and 70$ to replace it. No aftermarket part is available. Has to be Honda OEM. I read here everyone's problem seems to be no heat where as mine is only hot heat comes out. Could this screw fix be the same issue for mine? 2005 Pilot.
 

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First post... new to Pilot's. Bought an '06 Pilot in August, 197k on the odometer.

A/C is cool-ish, heat is luke-cool... not even warm enough to be "lukewarm". Atlanta gets down in the teens during the winter, so a defrosted windshield would be nice.

The "Magic Screw" mentioned above was snug and not loose in my case. I loosed it up, and tried going to temp extremes on the AC control panel, but the valve doesn't appear to have moved. Tightened it back up when I finished :) lol

There's a part under the p/s side of the dash which makes a "gurgling" noise. The previous owner said he'd planned to replace it, but never did. Part sells for about $200+. Have seen other threads here where people removed, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled. That being cheaper than $200, I plan to try this afternoon.

Glad to have this resource! :)
 

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Turned the screw but still not Hot.

My mechanic said that a couple years of honda pilots and Acura MDXs have this problem, and he knows it's not the heater core because I have hot water going in and hot water coming out. I have an honest mechanic. I was hoping that the screw on the heater control valve was going to be the simple solution, but although the screw turned a little bit, it made my heat a little warmer, but definitely not hot or as it should be. I did the screw as I had read where you loosen it, turn your control dial in the car to cold, then tightened the screw. So...how about the flaps that direct the air into or out of the heater core? Could these be stuck? Is there any way I can check this? Is there anything else I can check? My rear heater/ac does not work at all. It doesn't even blow air. This is not that important to me and I have seen how to fix this and I may do it sometime, but I need to fix the main heat. The rear heat wouldn't effect the front heat not working, would it? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Diane
 

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**********DON'T LET A MECHANIC OR DEALERSHIP SCAM YOU BEFORE YOU TRY THIS SIMPLE FIX!!****************

I had the same exact problem on my '03 Honda Pilot LX. Lukewarm, closer to cool air for the past 2 years. Not quite annoying enough to do anything about it- but getting there. I figured the heater just ran it's course and I just learned to live with lukewarm heat in the winter. Out of the blue about a week ago I googled "Honda Pilot no heat" and this gift from the heavens poped up. At first I thought yeah right there's no way this "magical screw" is going to solve this problem. Nothing is that easy. But lo and behold it worked exactly as described in previous posts. I am the least mechanically inclined person alive and even I was able to bring my heater back to life. The previous post with the picture is invaluable!

Turn the engine off. After I poped the hood (because of the help from previous posts) it took less than 30 seconds to locate this screw. As previous posts have stated as you look at the engine it's a little left of center just in front of the fire wall (below the winshield- down about 12 inches). My "screw" was actually just sitting on top of the hole it was supposed to go into. It wasn't even in the hole! It could've been like that for years for all I know. After time and plenty of vibration and moisture this screw was so rusted it simply detached from this arm or lever or whatever you want to call it. That's when I thought holy smokes I might be on to something! (AGAIN FOR SAFETY ENGINE OFF!! FYI I'M 6'0" AND FOUND IT VERY USEFUL TO USE A STEPSTOOL AND LEAN IN NEAR THE PASSENGER HEADLIGHT OVER THE ENGINE TO ACCESS THIS "MAGICAL SCREW"). Using a medium to small screwdriver I attemped to screw it back into the hole but because the screw and probably the hole where the screw went into were so deteriorated from age I simply found a slightly wider screw that fit in snugly. This screw is about a 1/2" long. ***DO NOT DROP THIS SCREW! YOU'LL PROBABLY NEVER FIND IT AGAIN!*** Seriously from the time you pop the hood, locate the screw and then tighten it it could very well take one whole minute- no exaggeration. If you have the dexterity in one hand to operate a philips screwdriver you can do this.

Now for the moment of truth! As someone previously posted, for whatever reason, before I cranked the engine I set the climate control hot/cool lever near the radio to cool (blue). Turned the car on and then turned the fan on. Waited a few seconds then turned it as far down to heat (red) as possible. Within 10-20 seconds BINGO HEAT!! Keep in mind my car was driven less than a half hour before I attemped this so it was warmed up already. If trying this from a cold start your heat time may vary. Just be patient. It might be helpful if while perfoming this simple operation someone with you turned the control lever while you look at the control arm that you just "fixed" just to see how it operates when the person in the car flips the lever from cold to hot to see that it's working properly. IV'E NEVER EARNED $1500-$3000 IN 5 MINUTES BEFORE BUT THIS IS CLOSE! If this helps even one person I'll be ecstatic.

UPDATE: I stupidly, for no reason at all, while I was driving on a cold day turned the lever in the car to cool (blue) and it stayed cool even when I went back to heat (red). Damn!! I thought. My screw failed me!...
No problem. When I stopped I simply took my handy dandy screwdriver and re-tightened my "magical screw" and boom instant heat again! I'm not motivated enough to find a permanent "magical screw" so for the time being I'll simply make sure I have a screwdriver in the car at all times.
 

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I had the same problem...heat from the rear heater but no heat from the front heater system. Tightened the screw that is part of the valve assembly and now everything works perfectly! Thanks so much to everyone for the solution.
 

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OMG this was a life-saver. My freezing cold wife and I thank you Carguy07 and everyone else! Like you said, two turns of the screw (tough to find in my '06 Pilot), toggle from LO to HI a couple of times and it works!
 

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Check the screw!

Yes, yes, yes. FIRST CHECK that screw. I had the same problem with the heat in my car. The heat was blowing hot out the back of the center counsel pointing to the backseat but it was blowing cold out the dashboard and the defrosters. Checked the coolant levels and temperature measurement. Checked to make sure all the coolant hoses were hot to the touch to make sure the coolant was heating up - showing the thermostat was working. I was stressed about replacing a heater core. The next step I was getting ready to do was replace the the air door actuator ($200+), then I came across this thread. I located the screw inside the engine compartment on the rear fire wall, passenger side. I was only able to tighten it about an 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn (at most). I turned on the car and...viola...I had heat blowing out the dashboard and defrosters!

Thanks for posting this and drawing attention to something no other thread, video, schematic or manufacturer site ever did.
 
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