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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a 2013 pilot for the family yesterday. Almost instantly fell in love with it. Not sure of trim level has what seems to be almost everything minus DVD. It has 149,000 miles, everything seems tight and works as should. Carfax says it's been to Honda dealers for service since New. I wish you can see more details exactly what has been done. Not 100% sure if the timing belt has been done. Talked with a buddy of mine before we bought it, told me not much needs to be done with these vehicles. Just change fluids when needed, seems like all Hondas for that matter. Well I'm excited to be part of the community.

Bobby
 

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Knowing when the timing belt water pump job was done would be a priority.
Your friend is right in the sense that these vehicles for the most part are very reliable, if all the bases are covered. Making sure all the fluids are fresh and clean is a good start. If your vehicle were mine, I'd begin making the switch to Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF in this 5-speed transmission. I'd also disable the VCM. I use S-VCM. Some of the following things may have already been done, but this is my list to keep a smooth running engine.
  • Disable the VCM
  • Air filter New/Clean
  • Air intake tube leak free clamps tight.
  • Clean the MAF. Remove MAF, With CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner spray a few short bursts directly into the visible electrodes (to knock fine dust particles off, no soaking), let condensation dry, reinstall.
  • Spark plugs New/Clean, NGK Laser Iridiums, no cheap aftermarket plugs
  • Spark plug tubes oil free, replace valve cover gaskets grommets and spark plug tube seals if oil is found. Replace intake manifold plenum gasket if doing this job.
  • Coils oil free. Replace oil soaked boots if any.
  • Replace PCV
  • Replace EGR valve if unexplained rough idle (last, after all else)
  • Promptly fix any O2 sensor related codes
  • Use a quality full synthetic 0w20 oil. No semi blends or extended performance oils.
  • Use a Top Tier 87 octane fuel or use injector cleaner regularly.
  • Long highway speed driving keeps the cylinders clean if the VCM has been disabled.
Thanks for the photo. Looks very nice.
Do you own a scan tool?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I own a cheap Bluetooth scanner that just allows me to read codes nothing fancy. Seems like typical used car things to look over. I do appreciate the list. I was looking into one of the vcm units. I belive it was the tuner II website I saw had it for 130 I believe without shipping. Seems like a no brainer. The fact it's plug and play. It's my wife's car so I don't want to turn it into a "project". But I understand certain things should be done to help the truck last. I think I'll be doing to timing belt soon, ill look further into the Carfax maybe I skipped when they did it.

When does the FSM say to do the timing belt? I thought I read 60k which if that's the case I do remember seeing a 60k service at a Honda dealer but nothing about another service after that.
 

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Timing belt is 7 years/105k. If you don't know what was done at those services, call the dealer with the VIN and see if they can tell you. If it hasn't been done, now is the time.

Definitely disable VCM, it's a no brainer kind of thing.
 

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There is a Honda owners website. After you sign up, you can enter the VIN to access the service records. I'd surely hope that the previous owner would have done timing belt water pump job along with a new set of NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs by now (100k).
If you discover that the timing belt is needed, and you like to DIY, most DIYers agree that a genuine Aisin timing belt water pump kit (TKH-002) is best for the job. Would be glad to help you source this if needed. It would also be a good time to replace all the coolant by draining the radiator when the water pump is removed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Definitely a "DIYer" been working on cars and trucks for a long time. But it's always nice to get info from anywhere you can get it. So timing belt won't be an issue other than never done one an a pilot. Aisin seems to be the go to for quite a few foreign vehicles. I always try to use the best quality parts I can get. For my 05 tundra, I use pretty much everything OEM. Anywho I'll have to look into the Honda owners website you speak of and see what comes up from that. Typically I'll go over any new to me car within the first month. That way I know where the maintenance is at and not hope the last person is up to date.

Excited to see how long we get to keep this car. Thanks for the help so far.
 

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Glad we could be of assistance.
We have a lot of conversations about different aftermarket products. There are some things that have proven to be unwise to stray from OEM. (Like CV axles, /kickself, lol) Aisin has proved itself.
The Best Timing Belt Water Pump Kit (POLL)

Many of us DIYers prefer Valvoline MaxLife ATF over Honda DW-1.
But I wouldn't dare stray from genuine Honda power steering fluid.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is that honda dw-1 for the rear diff? I've been told by my buddy it has a 15k life span. Is this true and is the valvoline preferred?
 

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Is that honda dw-1 for the rear diff? I've been told by my buddy it has a 15k life span. Is this true and is the valvoline preferred?
Valvoline MaxLife ATF is for the Transmission only.
It is recommended to use Genuine Honda VTM-4 fluid for the rear differential.
Many are successfully using a full synthetic GL5 rated 75w90 gear oil in the transfer case.
 

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Is that honda dw-1 for the rear diff? I've been told by my buddy it has a 15k life span. Is this true and is the valvoline preferred?
@Nail Grease has you covered for the proper fluids.

Regarding the life span, I think it's 15k initially and 30k after that for the 2nd gen Pilot. I changed ours when we got it at 35k and will be changing it when I do the timing belt this year (around 70k).

The VTM-4 system is always sending torque to the rear wheels from a stop, so the diff is working all the time and I do recommend following the recommended interval.
 
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