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NEW Fram Oil Filter - Synthetic Endurance

1439 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  undivide
FRAM Synthetic Endurance® Oil Filter | 25,000 Miles of Protection | FRAM

Just saw this at Walmart yesterday browsing the aisle.
New Fram at Walmart
Apparently it is exclusive to Walmart stores as the next step after the "Ultra Synthetic" filter line. Goes beyond the 20k mile change up to 25k mile change for those bold enough.
Imagine changing your filter every 6th oil change on a 5k mile drain! o_O
Also noticed Walmart now stocks OEM filters on the bottom shelf out of plain view! I found our Honda 15400-PLM-A02 there for around the same price as the new Fram Filter.
Honda OE at Walmart
This same Honda OE filter is $7 through a local online dealer website. Shipping probably brings it back up to near Walmart prices. I've never attempted to purchase OE filter from a dealer parts counter so I have no idea what that would even run me.
Anyone buy their filters straight from the stealership?

Now I am torn as I have three vehicles that all use the same filter part number. I have been running Fram Ultra on all vehicles for years without issue and sometimes will stray to the Mobil 1 filter here and there if it's out of stock at Amazon (subscription discount ordering).
Considering going to this new "Endurance" filter or maybe going to the Honda OE filter instead!
or maybe I should go to another brand, like Wix. I see I can get the XP filter from Wix on Amazon subscription order for a decent price point, a little under $9.
Fram Ultra still is the cost winner at a low $7.32 on subscription!

Your thoughts?
Does any of this matter... probably not!
Is it all a big marketing gimmick... most likely 🤑
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To me, it’s all about the pressure relief valve. To soft and your filter will let the oil bypass. The more used the filter, the greater chance of this occurring.
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Anyone buy their filters straight from the stealership?
Your thoughts? Does any of this matter... probably not!
Every dealer probably has their own pricing. The A02 filters I got last fall at my local Honda dealer were $8.56 each.

Agree with the "not!" statement. I've long given up on trying to find the "best" oil filter for any of my vehicles, as I've come to believe the filter manufacturers know more about their products than anyone on the internet knows. But that's just me.
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To me, it’s all about the pressure relief valve. To soft and your filter will let the oil bypass. The more used the filter, the greater chance of this occurring.
I thought that whole idea behind the bypass valve was to avoid oil starvation at the bearings during start-up when the oil is cold and thick, not flowing well through the filter media? So long as the pressure rating is in the same range as OEM all should be well ? Unless we have a way of independently testing each filter we buy, we are simply assuming that the numbers provided by the manufacturers are accurate and true.
we are simply assuming that the numbers provided by the manufacturers are accurate and true.
Yes, but as you research, you will find that some are weak on this rating. Wix for one. I’m currently using Purolator One.
Forgot to mention the Honda OE filter I found at Walmart is Made In USA unlike the Honda OE filter for my motorcycle that I purchase every year from the local powersports dealer, is Made In China
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IIRC Honda's old oil filters were made by Filtech or Wix, can't remember.

Their current filters are made by Fram.
Folks, here is a VERY comprehensive oil filter analysis.
I was once quite active over on the Turbo Diesel Register TDR and its forum. They are what the Piloteer is to Pilots but for the Dodge Ram/ Cummins diesel pickup. This article analyzes oil filters for that engine. The benefit for you is reading about the types of filters, the commonality across brands, and construction technique.
I don’t think pilot owners track engine hours like a commercial vehicle does, but a Cummins Ram does. My 04 Ram now has 176xxx and nearly 6000 hours. I bought it new and have never used anything but the OEM brand (Fleetguard) premium filter and a decent conventional oil. My engine hasn’t had one issue yet.
This article helped my decide on what filter to use back then.
Enjoy the read.
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I think in general diesel engines last longer because they operate at a lower RPM range and in general have larger components to handle the torque and load stresses they operate under. I remember a customer filed a lawsuit against the company the owned and operated the parts store I worked at (advance auto parts) AND the company the manufactured the filter he purchased at the parts store (fram) because he claimed it was the cause of catastrophic damage to his engine. I think it might have actually been a dodge cummins but could have been a ford powerstroke.
regardless, I don't think the judge ruled in his favor but advance auto sent me to the trial to represent the store basically saying we shouldn't be held liable because we just sold the part based on catalog recommended application.
can't remember if fram was ever held liable for the damage but they sent a company rep and lawyer to the trial to protect themselves.
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Many HD engines use piston cooling nozzles that spray oil up under the piston crown. If you check out that paper, you’ll see that Fram used a glue to bond the media that dissolved and wound up clogging those nozzles, causing failures. The same thing has happened when pouring in oil from a jug that still had shards of foil left from the jug seal, but that’s a whole ‘nother story!
Point is, the article pulls back the veil of oil filter construction and branding.
In the case of my Hemi Durango, it’s tough to get the larger OEM filter anymore (they superseded to a tiny case) so I will probably go to Wix for that, but I would choose an OEM filter for my Pilot (that I’m taking delivery of today! 🙂)
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the bonding glue coming off could have been from a bad batch of filters or just an old design from decades ago. or maybe that's just how their bare bones entry level budget filter is designed?
I've never taken apart my fram ultra filters or any filter for that matter to check to see if any glue was used and if it had dissolved after extended use.
the shards of foil getting into the engine while pouring from the jug always freaks me out every time I refill after a drain.
I used to poke the foil with my thumbnail but now I slice it open with a razor and then try to peal as much of it off around the rim edge as possible. of course there are some containers that rely on the cap to keep the oil sealed but I think that is only the quart containers and not the gallon or 5 quart jugs.
most modern Honda engines also use nozzles to spray the pistons with oil to help lower temps to aide in preventing detonation. I wonder what a clue would be that our nozzles were clogged? and would running an engine cleaner flush solution through then draining might un-clog the nozzles? most pistons rely on splash lubrication for operation so I'm unsure of how a clogged nozzle on a diesel would lead to complete failure? not really a concern I have as I don't own a diesel engine but definitely interesting to compare
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