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This past Saturday, i picked up my brand new Pilot and parked my old car in the garage (Pilot does not fit in the garage). I also replaced my old key chain with the new honda car key and remote. This car is to be pickup this weekend by my in-laws as their second car. Bye Bye my trusted old (actually it only has 37k miles) car, my companion for quarterly guys only AC (Atlantic City) trips, golf outings, Montreal bachelor parties........ I was happy and sad.

Today, I press the garage door opener. Nothing, press again, nothing, no reaction whatsoever from the door. My garage door is dead and i have no other entrance. My old car LOCKED itself in!!!

I have a Sears Garage door opener and now i am clueless on what to do. The only programmed remote i have is that car's homelink.
 

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If it has rolling codes, there should be a learning button. You press that, then press the remote button twice.

If it is an older opener, it should be a Y or an X (I think, check with your local Sears store or 800-repair). If so, it should have 8 dip switches that should match the remote.

If I'm off my rocker, please let me know.


I can't get rid of my old car for a different reason. With all the 0.0% financing going around, nobody seems to want our old used car. It's been in the Auto Trader for over a month now with only ONE call!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ferdball

I can't say i understand anything you just mentioned.

This Sears garage opener came with the house. I have a wired switch inside the house with 3 buttons (lock, light, and a long white bar opens the door). I had a big ugly remote which i used to program the old car's homelink. I am now in the proces of looking for this original remote.

As far as my understanding, i have 2 ways to open this garage.
1. In-house button (does not work)
2. Old car's homelink (inside garage)

There is a key-pad next to the garage door. I have no clue of its use nor any code to use on it.

Please forgive my ignorance on this matter.

BTW. This door did not have any problem from 96 (move-in date) to this past saturday (Pilot pickup date).
 

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emc02 said:
Today, I press the garage door opener. Nothing, press again, nothing, no reaction whatsoever from the door. My garage door is dead and i have no other entrance. My old car LOCKED itself in!!!
I would say to call Christine's original owner, Stephen King, to get his take on it.

BUT ...

You might want to determine if the battery in the remote is shot. We have the same set-up as you do and frankly, I had a similar problem. If you don't mind doing a bit of experimenting, try taking the battery out of the hand-held remote and putting it in the freezer for a while. About an hour should do it. Then, pop it in your remote and try to open the garage door. (Getting batteries cold recharges them)

Failing that, perhaps you blew a fuse/circuit breaker to the garage door opener.

Two points to ponder ...
 

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Sorry I don't have an answer for you, but have you ever seen the show "Beyond Belief - fact or fiction" ? Maybe there are forces at work trying to keep your car at your home. Maybe your car is afraid of your inlaws. Maybe your garage is in love with your car.

Only kidding of course. :2:


By the way have you changed the batteries in your remote lately. I've been locked out of my townhouse community before. I tried a new battery and lo and behold, the gate opened.

You might want to check this.:)
 

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emc02 said:
Ferdball
1. In-house button (does not work)
By this response, I would say that there is something wrong between the IN-house button and the opener itself, and not the remotes. I would double check obvious things like the wiring between the in-house button and the opener. If you can't find anything obvious, you may need to call Sears. They charge about $65 to come to your house to check it. My experience with Sears Home Repair has been very good.

At least you can manually disengage the chain and open the door, right?

Either way, good Luck.
 

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The way I read this, you are in the house pressing the wired switch and the door fails to open. In that case, remove the switch from the wall and manually touch the wires to operate the door. If that fails, the switch can be eliminated as the source of the problem, reducing the possibilities to two that I can think of: the door opener itself, and the circuit that it's on. Check the fuse/breaker.

If the door opener itself appears to be the problem, you will likely need to force the door open (potentially damaging the door and further damaging the opener).

Most openers have a release lever that will disengage the door from the opener. Unfortunately, that lever is inside the garage.
 

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I have the same setup and had to manually open the door during a power outage.

The garage door opener has manual override. A cord with a small handle should be hanging down from the unit. If you pull the cord the garage door opener should release the door and you can push the door up manually.
 

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Im guessing the only door into the garage is the one that wont open right?
 

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Re:Cold battery & non-opening garage

copperpoppy said:
... Getting batteries cold recharges them...
WHAT?!? I'm sorry that is just <u>wrong</u>. If it were true there would be lots of grateful drivers during the winter in the snowbelt! From either thermodynamic or electro-chemical perspective the process of charging a battery involves the movement of electrons/chemical reduction. To accomplish such a task by COOLING is simply impossible. In fact, slightly raising the temperature of many storage batteries may slightly increase their output (though modern alkaline batteries are not very temperature dependant)-- it is one reason that photographers keep their flash units battery packs(they are often NiCads or gelpaks which are more temperature dependant) inside their coats in the winter. <u>You may be confusing the STORING of new batteries in a cool place, which does slow down the discharge process and keeps the batteries "fresher"</u>.

As to the garage door: If the wall mounted switch does nothing, as in the lights don't go one and the motor doesn't click, you should check to see if the power is OK. If there is no door or window to get into the garage & that's where your electrical panel is, you are really out of luck and damaging the door is almost certain. Generally it is very difficult to force open a garage door that has a power opener attached to it. If you can't get to the release this is going take lots of brute force. Even if there is no electrical force holding it shut the geometry of the attachment arm and rail mean that you will have to basically force the door to rip away from the hardware. I had to help a friend do this and we had to attach a stout bracket to the face of the door and use a jack to force it up. The bracket half bent/half ripped out of the inside. Unfortunately our work was not done. When we got inside we found that the counter balance spring had failed and that is why the motor had burned out and he couldn't get in the garage. We had to struggle with all the weight of the door until we got it high enough to block open. The same thing may have happened to you. The balance springs do just fail over time, and when they do, the doors are sometimes so heavy the motor gets burned up.

Good Luck!
 

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My opener does not work either

And there is no manual or in house opening device. I use the kids to climb in the window and press the button inside. If I did not have a garage window, I do not know what I would do. You see, I keep beer in a fridge in the garage...

I tried changing the battery and re-wiring the device, but to no avail. I guess I will have to call the manufacturer. I would love to hear how all this turns out.
 

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Re: Re:Cold battery & non-opening garage

renov8r said:
<u>You may be confusing the STORING of new batteries in a cool place, which does slow down the discharge process and keeps the batteries "fresher"</u>.
Nope. I'm not confusing anything. I don't claim to understand how it works but, it does. Particularly on cellphone batteries. Its not a full recharge but, it does work. And... for the record, I learned it when I lived in the snowbelt. :) Not sure it works on every type or kind of battery but, its worth a shot.
 

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Re: Cold battery

What you may be observing is the drain slows significantly while the cell phone is in the freezer. Then, upon removing the battery from the freezer AND RE-WARMING the battery it seems to have more juice than before.

Cooling and rewarming a battery ought to work no better than just taking the load off it and letting it 'rest'. Such resting allows the anode to re-accumulate an excess of charge and may allow the last bit of power to be eeked out.

Interesting that you would mention a cell phone. Most cell phones batteries are Li-Ion or Nickle Metal Hydride. Both of these have very stable voltage vs temperature curves, but still fall off in colder temperatures. http://www.ion-energy.com/ier/6#lto In short the physics just don't hold up for cold "recharge" http://www.sst.nrel.gov/topics/batteries.html

copperpoppy said:


Nope. I'm not confusing anything. I don't claim to understand how it works but, it does. Particularly on cellphone batteries. Its not a full recharge but, it does work. And... for the record, I learned it when I lived in the snowbelt. :) Not sure it works on every type or kind of battery but, its worth a shot.
 

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can't you disconnect the garage door from the opener, either with the manual disconnect on the carriage that rides on the rail or just be unbolting the thing from the door?

This seems like a simple problem to fix
 

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Dano said:
can't you disconnect the garage door from the opener, either with the manual disconnect on the carriage that rides on the rail or just be unbolting the thing from the door?

This seems like a simple problem to fix
Exactly. I'm not following what the problem is here. This reminds me of the story of someone trapped on an escalator, or not being able to change the channel on the TV because they lost the remote. :D

Unless, of course this thread was just created in jest, in which case, "Carry on!"

Chris
 

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I think his only way in is thru the big door that wont open, if not he sounds like the lady up the street from me who locked herself IN her car!!
 

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If the only entry to the old car is the garage door then break out the skillsaw and such and start building a door entry :)
 

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If that's the case, that the only entrance is the garage door, then there should be a manual release on the outside of the garage that is actuated with a key.

If not, I agree, get out that skil saw or sawzall.
 

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A small amount of gassolene,

and a paid up insurance policy is all you need.

The fire department will open the door for you.;) :D
 

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Dano said:
If that's the case, that the only entrance is the garage door, then there should be a manual release on the outside of the garage that is actuated with a key.

If not, I agree, get out that skil saw or sawzall.
It's in the garage..
 
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