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Wow great tips, pictures, and post! Thanks!

I did mine at 110k.

STRANGE that the tensioner bolt tip had oil on it!
 

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2012 Pilot Touring
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1 Posts
This was a GREAT write up and I used it extensively to do the timing belt and water pump on my 2012 Pilot. Huge thanks to OP. I used the Aisin kit. My additions to this already excellent thread:

1. Don't expect the starter method of crank bolt removal to work. I tried it many times and it didn't budge. Also tried a 1000 ft lb 3/4" drive pneumatic impactor, even over-pressured, and no go. 6 feet of pipe and 3/4" breaker bar with 19mm impact socket was needed to break the crank bolt. Bungee the crank holder tool / breaker bar to the upper side of the lower control arm to keep the crank from turning while you are applying an insane amount of torque with your 3/4" drive breaker and extension pipe(s). Remove the oil filter to make space for the crank-holding breaker bar (connected to crank holding tool) that bungees to the upper side of the LCA. Insanely tight this bolt.
2. Expect all of the wheel well liner trim clips to break. Get the assortment kit from Amazon before hand.
3. I had to remove the little motor that controls the variable air intake (left side of valve cover) to get the power steering pump off. I sure hope i put it back on correctly.
4. Draining the coolant is a complete mess. Have lots of cardboard ready as the coolant can't be completely captured by a bucket (splash guard sends it everywhere). Also true when water pump comes off.
5. Be very careful not to mistakenly remove the oil pump bolt JUST BELOW the water pump. I removed it by mistake and am hoping not to get an oil leak as I resealed that oil pump bolt with Permatex Ultra Black. Removing that bolt breaks a HondaBond seal for the oil pump Very easy to confuse and it was the only mistake I made (new guy).
6. Mark the pulleys and old belt. Transfer the marks to the new belt. Count belt teeth between the marks (crank, front, rear cam) twice to ensure perfect transfer.
7. Don't even think about re-using the idler pulley bolt - get the OEM one from Honda with their thread locker on it. There's no reason not to reuse the tensioner (and tensioner pulley) bolts.
8. Plan on changing the right side motor mount while you're there. Mine was trashed. I actually replaced all 4 mounts (3 engine, 1 tranny) from Anchor industries via Rock Auto. That rear mount was fun.
9. There will be power steering fluid on the drive belt pulleys. Clean all that off with brake cleaner before installing new drive belt (I used a Continental drive belt).
10. Timing belt marks will NOT line up after you rotate the crank 720 degrees, but the crank sprocket and cam pulley marks will. At least they better.
 

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2005 Pilot EXL- 227,700 Miles
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911 Posts
This was a GREAT write up and I used it extensively to do the timing belt and water pump on my 2012 Pilot. Huge thanks to OP. I used the Aisin kit. My additions to this already excellent thread:

1. Don't expect the starter method of crank bolt removal to work. I tried it many times and it didn't budge. Also tried a 1000 ft lb 3/4" drive pneumatic impactor, even over-pressured, and no go. 6 feet of pipe and 3/4" breaker bar with 19mm impact socket was needed to break the crank bolt. Bungee the crank holder tool / breaker bar to the upper side of the lower control arm to keep the crank from turning while you are applying an insane amount of torque with your 3/4" drive breaker and extension pipe(s). Remove the oil filter to make space for the crank-holding breaker bar (connected to crank holding tool) that bungees to the upper side of the LCA. Insanely tight this bolt.
2. Expect all of the wheel well liner trim clips to break. Get the assortment kit from Amazon before hand.
3. I had to remove the little motor that controls the variable air intake (left side of valve cover) to get the power steering pump off. I sure hope i put it back on correctly.
4. Draining the coolant is a complete mess. Have lots of cardboard ready as the coolant can't be completely captured by a bucket (splash guard sends it everywhere). Also true when water pump comes off.
5. Be very careful not to mistakenly remove the oil pump bolt JUST BELOW the water pump. I removed it by mistake and am hoping not to get an oil leak as I resealed that oil pump bolt with Permatex Ultra Black. Removing that bolt breaks a HondaBond seal for the oil pump Very easy to confuse and it was the only mistake I made (new guy).
6. Mark the pulleys and old belt. Transfer the marks to the new belt. Count belt teeth between the marks (crank, front, rear cam) twice to ensure perfect transfer.
7. Don't even think about re-using the idler pulley bolt - get the OEM one from Honda with their thread locker on it. There's no reason not to reuse the tensioner (and tensioner pulley) bolts.
8. Plan on changing the right side motor mount while you're there. Mine was trashed. I actually replaced all 4 mounts (3 engine, 1 tranny) from Anchor industries via Rock Auto. That rear mount was fun.
9. There will be power steering fluid on the drive belt pulleys. Clean all that off with brake cleaner before installing new drive belt (I used a Continental drive belt).
10. Timing belt marks will NOT line up after you rotate the crank 720 degrees, but the crank sprocket and cam pulley marks will. At least they better.
Thank You for the Helping us out with your experience and the necessary Details!! Awesome Write Up!!😁👍👍
 
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