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Glorificatus Oleum Mutante
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Comments Welcome!! :)
Great video!
It's usually the back one I'm always fearful of getting off a tooth because of the angle.
 
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Great video!
It's usually the back one I'm always fearful of getting off a tooth because of the angle.
Yes Sir. The back one does seem to be the hardest from all I have read. Surprised that it is the one that is dead on! I just hope that the man will honor his word that he stands behind his work 100%! Keep fingers crossed
 

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2005 Pilot EXL- 227,700 Miles
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Following up- After meeting with local mechanic and trying to convince him that the timing was off 1-Tooth (which he insisted it was not) he agreed to mess with it some more to try and get it the way “I wanted”. He was not there today when I picked it up, but the kind lady behind the desk said that he replaced the belt and redid the job and that it is fixed. I drove straight home and checked it. YESSSSSS!!!!! Perfect alignment!!! I texted her a Thank You and Job Well Done! I will admit that I have been stressed out about this easy mistake for a month or so wondering if he will honor his work and make it Right! Really couldn’t fork out another 1k to have another mechanic fix it. I need valves adjusted & gaskets replaced (which I will be attempting myself- getting the whole Felpro kit). I look forward to this work even if it will be a pain in this 56yr old construction worker’s back!!
 

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2005 Pilot EXL- 227,700 Miles
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Following up- After meeting with local mechanic and trying to convince him that the timing was off 1-Tooth (which he insisted it was not) he agreed to mess with it some more to try and get it the way “I wanted”. He was not there today when I picked it up, but the kind lady behind the desk said that he replaced the belt and redid the job and that it is fixed. I drove straight home and checked it. YESSSSSS!!!!! Perfect alignment!!! I texted her a Thank You and Job Well Done! I will admit that I have been stressed out about this easy mistake for a month or so wondering if he will honor his work and make it Right! Really couldn’t fork out another 1k to have another mechanic fix it. I need valves adjusted & gaskets replaced (which I will be attempting myself- getting the whole Felpro kit). I look forward to this work even if it will be a pain in this 56yr old construction worker’s back!!
Ps. It idles much better than before!! Amazing what a 1-Tooth correction can make!!
 

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First wow I didn't know that changing the belt was such a pain in the ass now i know why it is so expensive and time consuming to do. Second having the right tools for the job does make the job look fun to do.
 

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Glorificatus Oleum Mutante
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First wow I didn't know that changing the belt was such a pain in the ass now i know why it is so expensive and time consuming to do. Second having the right tools for the job does make the job look fun to do.
With all the money you save, you can buy lots of needed tools. Oreilly auto parts loans out tools with a refundable deposit (48 hours). I use the crank pully removal tool from there. But these have dropped in price, so I'll probably buy one next time. YouTube has lots of videos on the subject. Busting the crankshaft pully bolt is the big hurdle to get over.
 
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I what you mean. I wish I had the space for all the tools. Half my tools i have to keep them in my car alone because I live in a big city with little to no work space. But I love working on my car. Planning on changing the headlights on my pilot when i bought it i didnt notice that my headlight had a crack. So I am looking foward to doing that soon. I also plan on getting my rims redone they look faded.

With all the money you save, you can buy lots of needed tools. Oreilly auto parts loans out tools with a refundable deposit (48 hours). I use the crank pully removal tool from there. But these have dropped in price, so I'll probably buy one next time. YouTube has lots of videos on the subject. Busting the crankshaft pully bolt is the big hurdle to get over.
 

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Update on getting Timing back right on cam that was off one tooth- Cleared all the codes and NO CEL for OVER a Tank of gas!!! So Happy!!! Usually it would come on after 1 or 2 Driving sessions due to Misfires. Make a note of that! Still will be adjusting my valves soon- just got house maintenance work to get done 1st to make everything "peaceful" again ;)
 

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If I was to undertake this job but also had to replace an alternator at the same time, what order should I do it in?
Never done timing belt myself but I would pull alternator, do TB, install new Alternator then fire her up (after triple checking as I went along & 1- more final check 😂 lol)
 

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I don't think it will matter much since the alternator is not in the way of the timing belt job. Some V6 Honda's must have the cooling fan removed to get the alternator out. Removing the power steering pump then the alternator may prevent the need for removing the cooling fan.
 
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It's usually the back one I'm always fearful of getting off a tooth because of the angle.
As the old saying goes "can't find their *** with a mirror on a stick". In this case the stick mirror comes in handy to see the rear cam mark dead on. ;)
 

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As the old saying goes "can't find their *** with a mirror on a stick". In this case the stick mirror comes in handy to see the rear cam mark dead on. ;)
Hey! I’m gonna steal that saying!👍👍
 

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As the old saying goes "can't find their *** with a mirror on a stick". In this case the stick mirror comes in handy to see the rear cam mark dead on. ;)
The camera on my phone works well.
149847
 
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Thanks for the reply guys. I will watch that video, but I like the idea of not having to move the fan so I will see if my year has to move the fan. If, so I will do the TB... remove the alt in the middle and proceed like that. If its not in the way at all I will do the alt first and then move on with the TB.
 

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I figure I will post up my experience, and a few tips that might help. I decided to tackle the timing belt this weekend. 106k miles, right at 8 years old. We have owned it since 52k miles.

I have never done a timing belt before.... but I have turned a fair amount of wrenches on personal vehicles. My biggest concern was not the work or the time involved - it was if you messed this up - the results could be catastrophic. I read several threads here, and then watched about 6 youtube vids to prep.

Aisin TKH002 from Rock Auto for about $170 shipped.
Bando 6PK2135 Belt from Amazon (B000CMCNJC) for $22
BETOOLL 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool from Amazon (B01F333OHY) for $14
EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit from Amazon (B01I40ZQWE) for $23
Paint pen marker squeeze action from Amazon (B004BF5P6O) for $5

I read too many horror stories of broken bolts in blocks, so I ordered the primary bolts I read that broke. I believe most of these were caused by not using a torque wrench, but who knows. It was cheap insurance.

14513-RCA-A01 Bolt Timing Belt Adjuster $8.42
14551-RCA-A01 Bolt Timing Belt Idler $6.50 (this came with red loctite already on it)
95801-06030-07 Bolt Flange (6X30) for tension-er $1.35 (need two)

Mostly just hand tools, my 25 year old Craftsman socket set still seems to do the job after all these years. I did make use of several additional socket extensions from a harbor freight kit.

It took me about 8 hours of actual work time. I was surprised.... I figured I would do it a lot faster. But some things were slow, and putting everything back together just took a lot longer than I expected.

I didn't have any significant issues. Pulling the drive belt was a pain from below. Much easier from above I found out later. I wish I would have just ordered the harbor frieght (or amazon) tool for the serpentine belts.... to make this easier to remove and reinstall.

FIRST - I saw too damned many videos of people working way too hard to bust loose the crankshaft bolt. Wasting hours of time and energy. I was at first planning on getting the special heavyweight socket, and buying a Milwaukee 1400 ftlb impact, which is a $400 expense, but a guaranteed removal. I saw enough "bumping the starter" videos to determine this is what I would do. I took a 1/2" breaker bar and a 19mm impact socket, and rotated the crank so that the breaker bar was right up against the control arm (NOT the driveshaft!). I used a small bungee cord to hold the breaker bar in place so it would not fall off. Then went and bumped the starter (with coil packs unplugged) and did this FIRST thing..... as I wanted to ensure I could get this loose before wasting time on anything else. I popped loose on the second hit of the starter.... but you have to switch off that key, as the computer will continue to crank if you just let go. It was super easy... about 5 minutes of setup time. If you have an amazing impact, then the $20 special impact socket is the way to go.... but since I didn't, I figured I should give this a shot first. YouTube

The hydraulic timing belt tensioner was really leaking... LOTS of oil showing up.



The idler and tensioner pulley bearings both felt ok, but both showed evidence of oil/grease seepage coming from the back of the bearings.



The biggest surprise was the timing belt idler pulley bolt. When I removed it - a small amount of engine oil seeped out, and there was evidence of motor oil on the threads, on the end, ahead of the threadlocker evidence. I never saw anyone mention this - that this bolt hole goes into the engine oil channels.



My drive belt tensioner was showing evidence of leaking (black gunk all over) but the bearings felt fine, so I elected to just reuse it.

I was struggling to find the right belt routing image when it was time to put that back on - so putting this one out there....



On the tightening of the crank bolt - hitting the 47 ft lbs was super easy. Then, I marked a corner point of the crank bolt, and then just make a mark on the crankshaft pully "hexagon" that would be 60 degrees (one "flat" basically) since there are 6 flats/points, each one represents 60 degrees. My crank tool fit ok, and with a smaller 1/2 breaker bar it was easy to wedge into place, then put my harbor freight breaker on the 19mm socket, and had to use my foot to push it to get enough leverage. I got it to about 50 degrees and said "close enough" because that is REALLY tight. The torque spec without doing 47lbs plus 60 degrees is equivalent to 180 ft lbs..... which is a lot. You apply motor oil to the crank bolt threads, and the back of the bolt head (in between bolt head and washer).


These are my notes I made for myself from watching the videos, and basically what I followed.

Jack Pilot and place on jack stand. Remove passenger side tire off to gain access to crankshaft (22MM socket on lugs)
Remove clips (x3) and 10mm bolts (x4) on fender well skirt to gain access. Fold back and secure with bungee cord.
Remove engine top cover
Un-clip spark plug coils to disable engine start.
Bust loose crank pulley bolt using starter method (19MM socket and breaker bar)
Remove drive belt
Remove drive belt tension-er (12mm bottom and 17mm top)
Remove access panel to drain coolant, drain
Relocate coolant overflow tank off to side
Disconnect power steering pump reservoir hose at pump, use paper towels beneath to catch any spills
Remove power steering pump (12mm deep socket x2 with a 1" extension)
Un-clip power steering reservoir and relocate
Remove 3 bolts from computer module and swing module out of the way to clear motor mount
Remove upper timing covers - moving the wire harness out of the way first (x5 10mm bolts for each cover)
Remove crank pulley bolt and pulley.
Remove lower timing cover (10mm deep socket x7)
Remove timing belt washer shield
Reinstall crank pulley bolt to turn engine
Support engine with a jack with block of wood on oil pan
Remove right engine mount bracket (mount to mount) - First with the thru-bolt, then 2x14mm to engine mount
Remove right engine mount to frame (swing computer module out of the way) (3x17mm)
Remove right engine mount to engine (1x10mm, 3x14mm to engine)

Remove coils and plugs to make engine easier to turn (optional)
Align timing belt per instructions according to timing marks with paint pen.

YouTube

Triple check alignment
Grind down a threaded battery holder rod per the Honda service manual, remove tension on the timing belt
Remove timing belt
Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2x10mm bolts).
Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleeve) (14mm bolt).
Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it)
Remove water pump bolts (10mm) and pump, allow to drain. Mind the alignment pegs
Clean water pump flange surface on engine with rag, if needed fine paper
Replace pump (mind the dowel pins), 5 bolts (10mm), 8.9lbs (108 inch lbs)
Rinse with hot water, and blow off anything that got anti-freeze on it. Final clean area with a rag and brake parts cleaner. Blow off again.
Install NEW idler pulley/bolt with loctite, 33 lbs
Install belt tensioner pulley bolt, 18lb, 14mm
Install hydraulic tensioner, 10mm, 8.9lbs (108 inch lbs)
Check alignment, install timing belt
-Install belt on crank first, keep tight to front with no slack, around front cam, down under pump, up around rear cam, with slack to the rear.
Check alignment again.
When you are sure its good, pull grenade pin on tension-er.
Rotate engine clockwise slowly and feel for any resistance (valves).

Install motor mount to engine with 3 bolts (14mm) 33lbs, and then the 10mm bolt on top (9 lbs). Use thread-locker on the bottom bolt as it was from the factory.
Install motor mount to frame (3x 17mm) and connect to engine mount (2x 14mm)
Install timing belt keeper washer on crank
Install lower ]
 
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