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Discussion Starter #1
Had an issue a few weeks back where the passenger side map light would not come on. Got a new bulb and still a problem. The root cause turned out to be a bad map light switch. Ordered 2 off Amazon for 10 bucks and got on it after I did my TB tensioner this past weekend.

Tools Required:
flat blade screwdriver to pry off Map light lens
Phillips screwdriver to remove assembly
Replacement switch: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-798-Dome-Lamp-Switch/dp/B00FY81BUQ/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda|59&Model=Pilot|758&Year=2011|2011&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Start by prying off both map light lenses. The hinge is towards the inside. Pop one end loose, and gently work the other side free. You will see 2 silver phillips screws, one each side. Remove. Open the sunglasses holder and look for 2 black phillips head screws. Remove and you can pull out the assembly starting with the side toward the sunroof. It will drop low enough to disconnect the plug to the map lights. There is a small plastic tab located on the outer edge of where the map light is. Press in and the entire map light assembly will pop out of the frame. Slide the old switch out to the side and slide the new one in. Do not twist or pull. It slides toward the side opening. Snap the map light assembly back in the frame, reconnect the power cable and push the unit back in its opening starting with the edge closest to the front window. Replace all screws, replace lenses by pushing back in to place and test light.

Total process was around 10 minutes with the help of one curious dog. Total cost was 12 for the switches and another couple bucks for a replacement bulb that was not needed.
 

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Got to love the cheap easy fixes. I've been putting off buying mine. My driver side was out - like you a new bulb didn't work. Swapped switch with passenger side working switch and then both sides were working. But after a few months the driver side stopped working but the passenger side still works (with old driver side switch). Some kind of voodoo on the driver side I guess. Maybe two new switches will do the trick.
 

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Thank you so much for posting this! I just encountered the same problem in my wife's 2008 Pilot. So glad that it's an easy fix.
 

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Thank you so much for posting this! I just encountered the same problem in my wife's 2008 Pilot. So glad that it's an easy fix.
Yeah these switches are a problem for all hondas. I have a couple on hand for spares. Luckily all the Hondas use the same switch
 

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Damn I got two switched from amazon. Unfortunately my switches worked including the new only only on the left side. Double checked the new bulbs too.

Is there a separate fuse for the right and left map light?

So bulbs and switch both rules out. :cry:
 

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If neither bulb or switch made a difference, I would check the think metal wiring that routes power from connector to the bulb. I would also clean the prongs that slide into the switch.
 

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I would get a voltmeter and start by measuring across where the light bulb is installed. If ~12Vdc is present, it could be as simple as the metal leads are bent just far enough where they don’t make proper contact with the bulb’s metal contacts. The leads might also have corrosion/oxidation on them.

I’m not sure if there are multiple fuses for the map lights. I doubt it though. You might check each of the fuse boxes or the owners manual for that.
 

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I fixed mine with the replacement part. It works perfectly. The problem I had encountered while fixing it was that it didn't work at first --- then I noticed that the screw actually is the ground. Once I had the switch in and the screw back in place --- presto, the lights work perfectly again.
 

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Ok guys, I installed a couple of LEDs to replace what I thought were burnt bulbs: Nuthin’!
Thanks to this group’s awesomeness, I ordered the switches and began to replace them. The driver’s side switch wasn’t a problem.
what you see in the pic is the pass. side switch pins. This is the pin before I cleaned it and made it shiny.
installed the new switch and...Nada!
Multimeter shows less than 12v and I can help but think there’s a problem there.
I went ahead and buttoned it up.
CAUTION: Those pesky plastic screw inserts at the rear in the glasses holder slide around and are a pain to get lined up.
i snugged up the front screws, then used a toothpick to center the inserts in the screw hole.
I’ll try to get a good used one and see how it looks.
Keep ya posted!
 

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Wow gofastnut, that middle pin for the passenger side switch is pretty bad compared to what mine looked like. What did you use to clean it?

Over this past weekend, I finally got around to looking once more at our driver side map light that had gone out again. Using the continuity check on my multimeter, I idenitified that the middle pin on the switch was not opening and closing when toggled like on the passenger side. That middle pin did look less shiny than the other two (but not as bad as the photo above). Guess the middle pins are suspectible to build up over time. I just cleaned the middle pin on for my driver side switch with some WD40 and a q-tip and got that light working again without having to replace any parts. Will see how long it takes before the problem comes back this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So will this fix my problem where the lights won't come on when I open the doors but they will when I press the lights to turn on?
Different switch. Make sure the slide switch is in position to turn on the lights when you open the doors.
 

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It is. I can press the lights to come on, but they don't come on when I open the door.
This switch discussion is about one individual light not coming on either when the door is opened or when light is pressed. This would not be relevant to an issue affecting all the lights at the same time.

If the light master switch is in the door position (middle option IIRC) and all the lights don't come one when you open any of the doors but the lights do work individually when pressed on/off, then I would suspect the master light switch.
 

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Hey fisch,
It has been hot and had corrosion on it along with a tiny bit of melted plastic.
Don’t tell my wife, but she had some nice new angled tweezers that I used to scrape it clean. I also slightly bent that tab, looking at it from the point, it’s twisted just a hair clockwise. It still doesn’t work.
I’ll have to get one from a recycler and see what happens.
That will have to wait until after the first of the year.
 

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Hey fisch,
It has been hot and had corrosion on it along with a tiny bit of melted plastic.
Don’t tell my wife, but she had some nice new angled tweezers that I used to scrape it clean. I also slightly bent that tab, looking at it from the point, it’s twisted just a hair clockwise. It still doesn’t work.
I’ll have to get one from a recycler and see what happens.
That will have to wait until after the first of the year.
Surprised it doesn't work after all that cleaning and a new switch. The driver and passenger side share the same wiring from the plug so the problem must be after the plug if the driver side works fine. I would follow the pins/metal circuit to look for breaks and also check for continuity between the middle pins on the driver and passenger side as I think they share the same source (follow the metal circuitry to be sure. If the pins/circuitry check out, then the problem might still be in the switch or with the twisted pin. Might be worth trying to angle the pin in different ways to ensure good contact. Also check for good contact in the grounding screw.
 

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Surprised it doesn't work after all that cleaning and a new switch. The driver and passenger side share the same wiring from the plug so the problem must be after the plug if the driver side works fine. I would follow the pins/metal circuit to look for breaks and also check for continuity between the middle pins on the driver and passenger side as I think they share the same source (follow the metal circuitry to be sure. If the pins/circuitry check out, then the problem might still be in the switch or with the twisted pin. Might be worth trying to angle the pin in different ways to ensure good contact. Also check for good contact in the grounding screw.
I just disassembled my map light assembly to try to fix the same issues. While I was prepared to buy new switches, I wanted to see if I could clean things up and get it working before buying new switches. I noticed some light corrosion on the pins that the switch plugs into so I cleaned them off with fine sandpaper, though mine didn't look nearly as bad as the picture above - it just had a small spot that wasn't shiny. Also, this same corrosion was present on the terminal that the ground screw attaches to. I had to clean that off too. Upon reassembly things seemed to be working but the light on the drivers side was still not lighting up all the time, either with the button pressed or the center switch in the ON position.

The metal contacts of the bulb and the socket contacts on the light assembly looked fine, but just to be sure I cleaned them up too with the sandpaper, and that solved the issue. While not visible, there was something on the bulb preventing good contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
may want to add a touch of dielectric grease to the metal surfaces to prevent future issues. Good catch
 
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