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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

my wife is the primary driver of our 2016 Pilot, EXL. I noticed when she was coming in the other day that her driver’s low beam was out. Passenger was fine.

so, I bought two H11 long life bulbs from the Internet. Passenger side continues to run. Driver is still out.

I noticed when I touched the actual wiring under the connector, the light did come on temporarily. I am thinking there is an issue with the wiring being fed Into the connector. Anyone have any suggestions to repair this?

The high beams and DRL’s are working on both sides normally, and the passenger side low beam continues to work after the swap.

here is a photo of the connector. It looks trashed? I’m curious what type of cost is involved if I brought it to my local dealer to repair.
144371

144372

If it is still workable, I can try some dielectric bulb grease
 

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2019 Pilot Elite
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I'm assuming the dealership will want to replace the entire wire from end to end. Depending what else is there it will probably be a couple hundred.

You may want to find a mechanic or just diy and splice it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm assuming the dealership will want to replace the entire wire from end to end. Depending what else is there it will probably be a couple hundred.

You may want to find a mechanic or just diy and splice it yourself.
Thanks for your reply. So you're thinking the connector is shot? Is it possible to just have them replace the connector, assuming that's the issue? How do they stay connected? Is it possible to just "yank out" the existing wire and "push it" into a new connector myself?
 

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You can replace the connector by yourself, it's not rocket science lol it happens all the time with aftermarket bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They’re just regular halogen h11’s so it is a little concerning. How do you do it?
 

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2021 Honda Pilot SE
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They’re just regular halogen h11’s so it is a little concerning. How do you do it?
It means you probably had bad contact and demaged connector, you can get replacement in any auto parts store. I would suggest using that grease for future reference. You can take it apart plastic parts and replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for your reply.

I'm not really sure where to start here. I can get the connector from my local auto store, but not really sure where to go from there. I cut the bad connector from the wires, and then peel back the insulation and expose the wire, and just wrap it around the exposed end of the new one, with either a shrink-wrap butt connector on there, or use an automotive grade electrical tape?
 

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You can search youtube for bulb socket replacement to see exactly what to do, it's common problem when you have bad contact. Here is one of the videos
 

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Looks burned. Was it an original OEM bulb you had in there?

Maybe the connector wasn’t in properly and the voltage was arcing over and over. Cut old connector. Use wire stripper on new connector wire and old (now cut) wire. Put in an insulated butt connector (red colored should be the correct size but check the gauge. If not red then blue). Use the proper section of the crimper. Wrap with electrical tape when you’re done. Should be 10-15 minutes if you take your time.
 

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Thanks for your reply.

I'm not really sure where to start here. I can get the connector from my local auto store, but not really sure where to go from there. I cut the bad connector from the wires, and then peel back the insulation and expose the wire, and just wrap it around the exposed end of the new one, with either a shrink-wrap butt connector on there, or use an automotive grade electrical tape?
Thanks for your reply.

I'm not really sure where to start here. I can get the connector from my local auto store, but not really sure where to go from there. I cut the bad connector from the wires, and then peel back the insulation and expose the wire, and just wrap it around the exposed end of the new one, with either a shrink-wrap butt connector on there, or use an automotive grade electrical tape?
I'd suggest using a shrink-wrap butt connector the correct size for the wire. Be sure to keep the same polarity as the original plug. If you get them wrong, your halogens will still work, but if you upgrade to leds later they might not.
 

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2021 Honda Pilot Elite- Sapphire Steel Metallic 7P (gray) Delivery Date: 11-14-20
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If you replace the connector you should be fine. Voltage doesn't burn a connection like that. Amperage does. The bulbs don't draw a lot of amperage, but they do draw some and you had a loose connection there and it built up heat from resistance and melted the plastic a little. It never hurts to bend the tangs of the new connector tighter so that they get a better bite on the tabs of the bulb and use a little grease. However you splice the new connector in, make sure the connections are tight and weatherproof.

I was a dealer tech many years ago and we saw this quite a bit actually in the days before LEDs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks. I ended up taking it to the dealer. They seem to think the connector was working and there is a problem with the ground wiring. They are waiving the diagnostic fee and replacing the ground wire for about $125 with tax. Been here for 2.5 hours and counting.

Original symptom was burnt out OEM bulb so I tried new one and still nothing. Swapped driver and pax bulbs and it worked on pax side. So knew bulbs were good.

Surprised they didn’t just change out the whole headlight harness for $200-250. But as long as it works
 

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Hi guys,

my wife is the primary driver of our 2016 Pilot, EXL. I noticed when she was coming in the other day that her driver’s low beam was out. Passenger was fine.

so, I bought two H11 long life bulbs from the Internet. Passenger side continues to run. Driver is still out.

I noticed when I touched the actual wiring under the connector, the light did come on temporarily. I am thinking there is an issue with the wiring being fed Into the connector. Anyone have any suggestions to repair this?

The high beams and DRL’s are working on both sides normally, and the passenger side low beam continues to work after the swap.

here is a photo of the connector. It looks trashed? I’m curious what type of cost is involved if I brought it to my local dealer to repair.
View attachment 144371
View attachment 144372
If it is still workable, I can try some dielectric bulb grease

You can see on terminal in the plug you show is roached. It got corroded, the increased resistance heated it up and mafe it worse. Looks like some of the plastic around it is toast too.

You can purchase a plug pigtail and cut and splice in the new connector. If you are experienced with electrical repairs, Honda may sell a replacement plug. You would disassemble your damaged plug, remove the old terminals, crimp new terminals on the wires and reassemble into the new plug body. I would do the later, probably easier to do the former.

The repair pigtails are generally available at NAPA. Solder the wires together being careful of polarity. Heat shrink tubing over the soldered splice.
 

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Thanks. I ended up taking it to the dealer. They seem to think the connector was working and there is a problem with the ground wiring. They are waiving the diagnostic fee and replacing the ground wire for about $125 with tax. Been here for 2.5 hours and counting.

Original symptom was burnt out OEM bulb so I tried new one and still nothing. Swapped driver and pax bulbs and it worked on pax side. So knew bulbs were good.

Surprised they didn’t just change out the whole headlight harness for $200-250. But as long as it works
$125 for a ground wire. I'm in the wrong business.
 

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$125 for a ground wire. I'm in the wrong business.
It’s probably “just” an hour’s labor charge. The repair sounds a little embellished, but a person shouldn’t expect to leave the dealer for less than an hour’s labor for an out of warranty repair like this. If the tech put a new connector on and in any way checked the tightness of a nearby body ground for the headlamps, that counts as “checking and securing” a body ground ( or whatever).

The more you write that you did, the more you get paid for as a flat rate dealer tech even if the loose / burned connector was the root cause and you want to document that the grounds were at least checked for being tight / clean.
 
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