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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 Touring 4WD here, 160k on the clock.

Just did the following this weekend:

- Bilstein B6 all around - no new mounting hardware (I might be answering my own question here)
- Dorman front LCAs (the fully loaded ones with new bushings and ball joint) -- no new mounting hardware
- NAPA front calipers - no new hardware, same pads and discs, though thoroughly cleaned

I did all of the work in my 32F garage (best it could get with a heater) on jackstands with hand tools and a breaker bar. I don't own a torque wrench, so all was torqued to German specification.

What I'm hearing: pronounced clunk from front driver's wheel area over moderate bumps (not hard ones) at speeds below ~30mph. The sound that was there before the work and has persisted afterward. I thought the new LCA with a fresh ball joint would take care of it, but the sound didn't change at all -- in fact, it seems worse. I'm starting to think that I should have replaced the strut mounts, even though the rubber wasn't torn or floppy (which has been my indicator in the past of being worn out). But before I spend another $150 and hours in a cold garage to disassemble and reassemble the struts again, is there anywhere else I should be looking? Is there some other wear indicator for the strut mounts that I'm missing?

Other notes:
- Nothing moves easily by hand, or clunks when hit hard with a rubber mallet.
- The sound only happens while driving. I cannot get the clunk while standing on the door sill and throwing all of my 240lb into shaking the car.
- I replaced the sway bar end links and bushings just a few months ago, so it's unlikely to be those parts making racket.
- The inner and outer tie rods are original, but there is no play in them, and the steering is still tight and smooth, so I'm not looking hard at those as the source of the sound, but they're on the list for next replacement in a couple months.

I'm also getting racket from the passenger rear shock, but I think it's because I had to abuse the hell out of the lower bolt to get it out, and it was stretched or deformed in some way and will never get tight again, so I'm just going to replace that bolt with a new one and hope it fixes the issue.
 

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You mention and highlight the new dampers with no new hardware. The top part of the shock mount is a known wear spot, and most aftermarket pieces don't seem to be nearly as good as the genuine Honda parts. It makes noise as the suspension loads/unloads, and may also when you change direction. I think these need to be replaced when you change shocks, as tempting as it is to just slide the new shocks into the old parts. I know it's another teardown/replace and alignment effort.
 

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How do your motor mounts look? At 150k miles the rubber could be worn on them. They wont rattle when hit with a mallet only when the engine/trans shifts its weight
 

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Forgot the strut mounts! The rattle is there to stay unless you do the job all over again. Sorry. The bushing is worn out, you probable hear clunks on bumpy roads. Your not the first and won't be the last to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How do your motor mounts look? At 150k miles the rubber could be worn on them. They wont rattle when hit with a mallet only when the engine/trans shifts its weight
Ugh -- I did battle with the mounts on my 2005 Odyssey. I was hoping Honda had improved them and I wouldn't have to go through the same BS.

I'll have the wife put it in gear and load it up while I look at the engine with the hood up to see if it's moving at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forgot the strut mounts! The rattle is there to stay unless you do the job all over again. Sorry. The bushing is worn out, you probable hear clunks on bumpy roads. Your not the first and won't be the last to do that.
There's a method to my madness, here! Doing the same job on my 2005 Odyssey years ago, the strut mounts made noise AFTER new MOOG parts with KYB struts. Putting the old OEM one back on stopped the noise. I thought that since the platforms are related, maybe the clunking sound was elsewhere and I could save $100 by skipping the struts mounts, but now I'm starting to regret that decision!
 

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I've chased knocks that ended up being out of spec holes in the caliper mounting bracket. The caliper was what was knocking around because the pins were loose in the bracket. Did you hit the calipers with a mallet? You may want to check.
 

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Inner tie rods. You can’t feel play in them with your hand because it’s attached to the outer tie rod. take the outer tie rod off and move the tie rod up and down and see if it has any tension in it. Mine bounced when I lifted them up and let them drop and could tell they were worn out. New ones you can barely move. It only made a really fast rattling sound on dirt roads.

If this isn’t it then it’s definitely time to look at engine mounts. If the front and side mounts haven’t been done then they need to be done. It’s time. Oem only on these guys.

I don’t think this is a strut mount issue.

Check the passenger side mount and see if it’s torn. It may be hard to see with the Rubber on there but see if you can see a tear in it. If it’s torn then you can almost guarantee the front mount is torn too. They go out together.

lots of videos on YouTube on how to check if the mounts are working by revving the car in drive with your foot on the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've chased knocks that ended up being out of spec holes in the caliper mounting bracket. The caliper was what was knocking around because the pins were loose in the bracket. Did you hit the calipers with a mallet? You may want to check.
Would that be an issue with remanufactured calipers that were supposedly checked to be within spec for all measurements? I have not yet taken the rubber mallet to the caliper, no.
 

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Would that be an issue with remanufactured calipers that were supposedly checked to be within spec for all measurements? I have not yet taken the rubber mallet to the caliper, no.
this isn’t a common problem. Start with the obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Inner tie rods. You can’t feel play in them with your hand because it’s attached to the outer tie rod. take the outer tie rod off and move the tie rod up and down and see if it has any tension in it. Mine bounced when I lifted them up and let them drop and could tell they were worn out. New ones you can barely move. It only made a really fast rattling sound on dirt roads.

If this isn’t it then it’s definitely time to look at engine mounts. If the front and side mounts haven’t been done then they need to be done. It’s time. Oem only on these guys.

I don’t think this is a strut mount issue.

Check the passenger side mount and see if it’s torn. It may be hard to see with the Rubber on there but see if you can see a tear in it. If it’s torn then you can almost guarantee the front mount is torn too. They go out together.

lots of videos on YouTube on how to check if the mounts are working by revving the car in drive with your foot on the brake.
Is the front or rear mount the active one that counteracts the vibrations from VCM operation? I had to replace the active front mount on my Odyssey 2x because I used a cheap one the first time, so no way I'm going cheap on that when I do it. I experienced the same issue using cheap engine mounts on my old Mercedes instead of Lemforder. The cheap ones squashed in a month with that stale bubblegum rubber they used. The Lemforder were still in good shape years later.

We want to keep this car forever, so I'm not averse to changing out all of these wear items, but monthly budget is limited for parts (and thank the gods for tool rental), so I really need to be certain that the next thing I replace solves this damned clunk/rattle or the wife is going to have my head on a spike!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Took this video of engine movement after a drive to get some take out.

It doesn't seem excessive, but it is more than I expected. This was shot using the wide angle camera on my iPhone, sitting on the cowl.

First movement is in reverse, second in drive.

Now that I've seen this, I'm going to have the wife do the power brake while I watch.

 

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I bet the front and side mounts are shot. That’s a lot of movement. At 160k and being all original you can basically guarantee it. The rear one could be messed up too causing the major clunk. That’s what my pilot did.
 

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I read your post wrong "What I'm hearing: pronounced clunk from front driver's wheel area over moderate bumps (not hard ones) at speeds below ~30mph. The sound that was there before the work and has persisted afterward" I thought you meant wasn't there before. My bad. Sorry. Good luck with that it does look like motor mounts.
 

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AND, your front Subframe mounts are OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
AND, your front Subframe mounts are OK?
Never thought to check the subframe mounts. Those are the beefy boys right next to the rear LCA mount point, right? I got really up close with them when I was underneath getting those LCA bolts out, but I didn't really inspect. Didn't see any rust there, at least.

An additional point for all that might give this whole conversation some context: this Pilot has seen more than what might be the typical usual share of off-roading and high-speed dirt roads (keep it above 45mph to smooth out the washboard) than your typical suburban Pilot, so I wouldn't be surprised if we've managed to expend some wear items that others don't see wear out before 200k miles. We've crawled up trails in CO, Utah, NV, AZ, NM, and CA where the only other vehicles we saw were Jeeps and SxSs, for example. VTM-4 will write traction checks that the short-travel suspension can't really cash that well, so line picking can be tricky, but man this thing is capable when pressed, but I reckon we're going to pay for it with an accelerated maintenance schedule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok folks -- I'm going to bite the bullet and buy engine mounts based on y'all's recommendations. Sweet Jeebus OEM is expensive! It's gonna be $800 for everything shipped from Amazon -- do y'all know of a cheaper source?
 

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Don't buy OEM parts from amazon, you're asking for counterfeit. Use HondaAutomotiveparts.com or another dealer site like Shop Genuine Honda OEM Parts & Accessories Online - Bernardi Parts Honda - or HondaPartsNow.com I would start with the front mount and the side motor mounts only. If that doesn't fix, either look into other things, or see if it's the rear mount, the rear mount doesn't go out often. You must jack up the engine to keep it level while you're changing the mount, use a piece of lumber on the jack and jack it up slowly on your oil pan.
 
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