What gets me is why does the engine and dash totally lose all power after letting it idle for 15min but yet the seats work and red security light flashing, then after 30min-1hr the parking lights and dash will suddenly come back on and start right up like brand new with good cranking power. Its like a delayed timer if i had to describe it. What should i be testing/checking when its in no power state for the duration till it comes back on?
So, I missed the last few days and your posts that the electric seat STILL operates normally, even when the rest of the car appears dead. If so, the battery and alternator and related cabling/connections are almost certainly NOT the issue. If the battery has sufficient capacity to run the seat, it has capacity to fire up the dash and interior lights, etc. The seat power does NOT go through the PCM energized relays.
I'd start looking at the PCM relays---2 under the hood and 1 under the dash, I think---or something keeping the PCM from reliably energizing the relays, which in turn energize much of the vehicle's electronics.
Absolutely what i was thinking too, i just didnt really know how to word it like that. The alternator is maybe 2hrs running time old, battery is less than yr old, nothing has been modified with the vehicle, everything is stock, except for the master switch controller for the windows and locks, thats the only significant item thats been replaced and doesnt auto up nor down. Can only click the button half way to go up or down, pushing or pulling the button to auto just stops it from moving the window at all. I will look into those PCM relays. What am i looking for particularly? Burned, melted, burned smell, clicking, testing? Again, i have a snapon modis edge if it can help me in any way with its capabilities.
UPDATE: Just now, i started it from cold soak and went and stood at the engine with volt meter hooked up to the battery, 13.9-14.4, mostly in the 14v range. And after a half hour, it was still idling perfectly. So just for kicks, i wanted to see the draw of power with a/c on, and pressing the Auto button on the hvac controller was like shutting down the whole vehicle, total silence, like when the power goes out in a storm. Interesting! The other times i started from a cold soak i immediately turned the a/c on and waited till the temp was right in the middle and then it would just lose all power. This time, after the temp reached in the middle, it still ran but only until pressing the auto button, then all silence.
Alas, this might be very tedious to troubleshoot in person, moreover via forum posts. If the engine dies like you turned off the key and it appears dead other than the seats still operate, I'd personally start at the PCM fuses and PCM relays and probe for power loss when you turn on the A/C or when it dies. It's something not that far from the battery causing this--i.e. some 20, 30 or 40 amp fuse, PCM power feed, or main PCM energized relay on the control side of these circuits, as the majority of the car goes dark (dash, interior lights, headlights, engine...).
If that seems daunting, it's free to pull every underhood/underdash fuse and relay related to the PCM, inspect and reinsert. Sometimes the contact wiping action resolves slightly oxidized in place plug & socket issues. You can also tap on the relays with a screwdriver handle and see if the dash lights, headlights and such suddenly return. You'd at least have some troubleshooting direction.
Other than that, if you or a friend are an electrically savvy DIY, arm yourself with the electrical diagrams, a scope or DVM and basic bulb-based circuit tester, and get after it. The problem does seem somewhat reproducible, so your chances of rooting the cause is decent.