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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2010 pilot with new alternator, starts perfectly, drive till operating temp, or even let idle till operating temp, turn off vehicle and remove key, put key back in and turn to start.......and all lights on gauges, all power to everything, dead. Nothing, no power to anything. Opened hood, tested battery for voltage, 12.5v. Wait 30min-1hr and itll start right up. I noticed when no power, the red security light was still flashing tho, and i show 12.5v at the battery, but just nothing has power. Then try after a while and like nothin ever happened. What could it be after checking/cleaning the battery terminals and battery tested showing good, i just cant figure it out.
 

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2016 CRV Touring AWD, 2005 Pilot RIP.
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This is going to sound silly.
if you have any other key fobs with you, take them away from the car.
But wait, there’s more! Replace your Pilot’s key fob battery.
I like to try the cheap stuff first!
 

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So when this "no power thing" happens, does the power seat still work? If no, then study battery connections. If the seat does move, then look at PCM relays under to hood.

I had a similar issue with our '12 Pilot, early in 2020 Turned out to be a loose battery cable connection and possibly contributing, a dodgy ground. I addressed both and it hasn't done it since..

See: Please Help!!! Pilot died on the road and now it...

 

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So when this "no power thing" happens, does the power seat still work? If no, then study battery connections. If the seat does move, then look at PCM relays under to hood.

I had a similar issue with our '12 Pilot, early in 2020 Turned out to be a loose battery cable connection and possibly contributing, a dodgy ground. I addressed both and it hasn't done it since..

See: Please Help!!! Pilot died on the road and now it...

Yup, clean/replace those corroded ground cables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Those wer the things that wer automatically done when replacing the alternator. It was only putting out maybe 10-11v according to my modis edge multimeter at the terminals. Replaced the alt and then getting 13.2v. While at it, i replaced the cables with new genuine ones, cleaned grounds down to metal while installing the new cables, battery holds good charge, after drive or idle for 30min minimum, turn it off and pull the key out, insert key and turn and gauge lights dim instead of brightening and everything gets silent inside, no power to anything except the red security light flashing, taunting me, laughing at me. Wait it out for 20-30min and insert the key and turn, fires right up. Its almost worth $1,000 to pay and find out exactly why its doing this, just so i can sleep at night instead of tossing n turning wondering what it could be. Its not the battery connections. I repeat, not the battery connections.
 

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So, does power seat still operate when the "no power" thing occurs?
 

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Those wer the things that wer automatically done when replacing the alternator. It was only putting out maybe 10-11v according to my modis edge multimeter at the terminals. Replaced the alt and then getting 13.2v. While at it, i replaced the cables with new genuine ones, cleaned grounds down to metal while installing the new cables, battery holds good charge, after drive or idle for 30min minimum, turn it off and pull the key out, insert key and turn and gauge lights dim instead of brightening and everything gets silent inside, no power to anything except the red security light flashing, taunting me, laughing at me. Wait it out for 20-30min and insert the key and turn, fires right up. Its almost worth $1,000 to pay and find out exactly why its doing this, just so i can sleep at night instead of tossing n turning wondering what it could be. Its not the battery connections. I repeat, not the battery connections.
Did the replacing of cables also include the ground strap from the engine to the chassis? There is also another from the transmission to the chassis.
 

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I wonder if the bad alternator degraded the battery. Have the battery load tested at the auto parts store to verify if it’s good.
 

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I wonder if the bad alternator degraded the battery. Have the battery load tested at the auto parts store to verify if it’s good.
Good point. How old is the battery? Definitely start by diagnosing the battery. Could have a cell the holds a charge but drops off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Seat still has power, and the red flashing dot on the dash, but total power loss to the rest of everything. Here what happened today: i hear another tow truck out front and its the pilot again. She said she went outside to start it up, let it idle while getting her kids out the door, and she walked up to a silent pilot. Tried turning the key to start, just nothing. She calls the tow truck and when it arrived, the pilot started with the turn of the key. She backed out of the driveway to line it up for the tow truck and it went completely no voltage again. Tow truck gets it here in about 20minutes, dops it, i turn the key and it starts. Drove it to the back of my house, let it idle for about 15min, then i looked in the pilots direction and seen that it was in that no power state. All the lights wer off, totally silent inside the vehicle, pulled the key out, and maybe 10min pass and the lights wer all on again. Its like on a timer.
 

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Did you ever get the battery load tested? Have you tried measuring voltage across the battery while it’s idling to see if there is a significant drop before the Pilot shuts off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I didnt plan on standing at the battery with a load tester and waiting till it shuts off. I do know for sure that when everything powers down, theres still 12v at the battery, along with the seats still adjustable and the security red light flashing next to the display on the dash.
 

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A load test takes five minutes at the auto parts store. I would start there first as it will indicate if a battery cell is bad.

When you say 12V idling, is it actually closer to 14V? If it’s idling and battery voltage is only 12V something isn’t right.

And if you measure battery voltage right after turning the Pilot off it should be closer to 13V than 12V.

It sounds like your issue is easily reproducible and takes about 15 minutes to occur. If you don’t want to stand in front of the Pilot for 15 minutes to measure battery voltage, then hook up the multimeter and record a video of it on your phone.
 

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A load test takes five minutes at the auto parts store. I would start there first as it will indicate if a battery cell is bad.

When you say 12V idling, is it actually closer to 14V? If it’s idling and battery voltage is only 12V something isn’t right.

And if you measure battery voltage right after turning the Pilot off it should be closer to 13V than 12V.
Agreed!
Get battery tested first.
Easy (and free) to have done at LAP store.
A battery can show 12v and still have a bad cell.

BTW - how old is the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The battery is less than a year old. Ok, i was just sitting it from a cold soak, started up normal, connected my modis edge and turned on the a/c because its 102° outside, was sitting in it going thru the modis, about when it reached operating temp, while looking at my modis screen, it was like when the electricity goes out during a storm, no click, no pop, no snap, just total silence. Modis started showing lost communication and to reconnect and turn the key to the on/run position (which it still was in the on/run position). No power to anything, except the seat adjustments and the red blinking security light on the dash top corner. No reading lights, just seat adjustment worked. Now, if i pull the key out and get out and wait for a set amount of time, the tail lights and parking lights will come on and thats when itll start again. Almost like a timer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And the alternator was replaced about 10 days ago. Last one was only putting out around 9v, new one is in the 13.2v range, give or take .5 v.
 

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I just returned a battery (650 CCA) to O'Reilly auto parts out of my Hyundai Accent. It had a very strange symptom that I had not experienced. The daily driver said the vehicle was not starting/running well. I placed my charger on it, it was charged to 97%. Left the charger on until 100%. It would barely turn over. Headlights were bright. Cabin lights bright. Dash was flickering though. It had me worried something major was wrong, after cleaning all terminals and conections, ground cables etc. I hooked my battery jump pack on it and started and ran great. Took the battery to O'Reilly's and it tested BAD. Got a free replacement because it was less than 2 years old. It appears the voltage was fine but not enough amps.
 

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And the alternator was replaced about 10 days ago. Last one was only putting out around 9v, new one is in the 13.2v range, give or take .5 v.
It should be a lot more stable than that. And the voltage is too low.
Still not a bad idea to load test the battery to verify it’s not the root cause of the problem. Your previous bad alternator did put some stress on the battery.
 
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