Interesting twist on the OP thread as this discussion on using a bit of lube on studs for some Piloteers in the rust belt have a lot of corrosion to deal with.It's really close to passenger, and the use of the anti-seize on the stud is a regular discussion. I opened it a decade or more ago with Porsche, as owners were suffering when aluminum lug nuts were welding to aluminum wheels particularly when a rattle gun was used and/or there was any significant overtightening. We proposed a non-graphite lubricant for the friction faces. Porsche came back and said that a thin film of anti-seize is OK on threads only; the friction faces need to stay dry. For steel-to-steel interfaces, copper anti-seize is the weapon of choice among metal-based products, so that's what the 4Runner and Pilot get.
As far as using ATF or engine oil on clean threads vs. the anti-seize, the effect on final tension is identical. For critical bolts, there's a derate schedule for lubricated vs. dry. Varies based on thread size and pitch. For fine-thread wheel studs, there's a bigger issue with corroded dry threads. Regardless, I use the copper stuff, wipe it off with a paper towel so minimum remains in the stud threads, and tighten to normal spec. I'm interested in the copper layer, not the oil carrier.
This is straying far from the original question about using a torque wrench to loosen lug nuts.